Some extra information for those interested.
If you are happy to spend about US$50, I recommend the use of NSX specific holder bracket for the modulator than modifying the bracket that may come with the non-NSX modulator.
Both modulators in the above photo are of AP1. Just the bracket difference.
Left one with the NSX specific holder bracket and the Right one with the AP1 bracket.
Even with the reduced weight compared to the classic ABS, it’s still fairly heavy and you really want secure fixing for the modulator considering the inertia under sudden impact.
The use of proper bracket will also allow the use of proper NSX brake pipes without bending them and in the future, if you decide switching to NSX modulator, it will be a quick swap.
Obviously, the point of this thread is cost saving so please make your own decision.
Please select the appropriate relay for driving the ABS warning light circuit if using AP1 modulator.
The I/F on AP1 modulator only draws tiny current so you will need the high switching sensitivity type and since it will be continuously ON unless the modulator detects ABS failure, you must select the contact spec suitable for this kind of application.
This is probably due to S2000 using the digital gauge assy that the designers wanted to minimise the noise introduction by the use of ordinary mechanical relay that requires higher coil current and generates noise when switching On and Off.
Personally, I would stay with the SSR mentioned in the original post based on its characteristic under cabin temperature that could reach well over 60degC under direct sun light and the target circuit design that is different based on the year models.
For your reference, depending on the year model, the ABS warning light circuit is different and thus, the power consumption is different.
There is additional mechanical power relay in the loop on the later model so the logic is revered and while the updated post of using the Omron relay is nice and another cost saving, not sure of the long term usage under high cabin temperature with continuously On status.
By the way, you don’t compare ABS on dry, straight line.
As others mentioned, under that kind of condition, the main factor is the friction coefficient and thus, your tyre/road surface and load on each tyre play the biggest part.
You probably had better tyre than your friend and I don't know the spec of your brake but probably with the earlier smaller OEM brake caliper (brake balance massively towards the front) with aftermarket wheel or different rake between F and R rideheight compared to OEM.
You may find that under certain speed and condition, continuously fully locking the tyre will stop at shorter distance than letting the ABS to do the work.
Next time if you have the opportunity, please try these.
Ideally on the controlled wet proving ground, layout the traffic cones with mid-large radius (R) corner that you are comfortable to enter at about 50mph.
Approach the corner with steering wheel straight at 50mph, brake hard and almost immediately at the same time, turn the wheel to trace the corner R.
Measure the total stopping distance as well as the gap between the car and the nearest traffic cone.
Next, do exactly the same but on this occasion, turn the steering wheel first on entering the corner before immediately braking hard.
In ideal world, both tests should show similar result but you may find very interesting and quite big difference especially on some of the modern production cars with stability control equipped.
On our NSX, fortunately or unfortunately, there is no interaction between the ABS and TCS in the form of stability control.
The result difference between NSX and non-NSX ABS modulator would be very interesting.
You must have access to the SCS terminal on the ABS modulator from outside without disconnecting the big BLK/ORG connector.
Otherwise, you will have big time resetting the error code.
You never know what kind of error code already stored in the used ABS modulator and you can’t erase it by removing the fuse or disconnecting the battery.
You must follow the specific procedure and timing involving the IG key, Brake pedal and the SCS terminal in order to reset it.
Further info here including the comment section;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1791-Meanwhile
Kaz
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Originally Posted by britlude
