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Thread: Jaffaz32's Boosted Stroker Build

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    When installing a turbo kit there are different ways of doing it. I wanted to improve upon the way i had installed the kit originally. The oil pan was drilled and fitted with a screw fit type bung, i wanted this now welded along with a bung for the oil temp moving the sensor from the sandwich plate. I also wanted to use quality fittings and new. I also wasn't keen on how the turbo feed works. it takes the feed from the factory oil sender just before the filter, this is pre filtered oil so effectively every rotation there was a small amount bypassing the filter. I wanted to more the feed up to the heads where the SOS kit gets it feed from. By doing this i also reduce the amount of T's coming off the factory sender unit. Which was previously Factory turbo feed, aftermarket oil pressure, aftermarket oil temp and oem oil pressure. In order for plans to get the best possible fit i supplied a variety of fittings allow different options.

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    Another thing i wanted to upgrade was the feed and returns themselves with Russel braided lines. Two reasons, These are much better quality, more robust from moving parts and withstand more heat secondly with a braided line there is less sag in the return from the turbo to the sump. if the return point is not lower than the turbo you will get smoke come out the exhaust from oil build up, also caused by a saggy return.

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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Bucks, UK
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    Regarding the coolant hoses, I hope you are aware that there are several hoses that are sided (RHD/LHD), year model and AT/MT dependent.

    The bake master cyl in the photo is not OEM so you must check the pushrod clearance before installation. In fact, even using the OEM one, you should check it as there is no guarantee that no one touched the adjuster in the past.

    Using Ti with aluminium or any other metal materials…. I hope it went through long enough endurance testing…..

    Kaz
    Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1; 23-09-2016 at 10:20 AM. Reason: extra info

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaffaz32 View Post
    I had a slightly leaky brake master cylinder, now was the time to replace it with a new unit.

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    When Plans removed the motor before stripping they inspected the rest of the car and informed me that my front lower ball joints were worn, they offered a replacement service but i always prefer to go with a aftermarket option if it's better than oem plus i rather replace both lower and upper at the same time. These are Source 1 titanium ball joints as seen on Prime.

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    Let us know how this aftermarket ball joints work for you. I had a customer car in my place who got exact this ball joints installed and all 4 failed after just 2500km of driving. There was so much play in it, that it was dangerous to drive. ....and there is hardly better stuff outside than OEM on the NSX
    Largest stocking of used NSX parts in Europe & many service parts in stock. parts inquiry: office@atr-racing.com / phone +43 676 5458032

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    Really, that's interesting...

    I made a typo, they are not Source 1 but Carbon6 parts which really surprises me as they seem to make quality products, surprised they didn't pick up on this in testing.

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    Science of Speed EGR blank kit, only compatible with aftermarket engine management.

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    Science of Speed Oil pressure gauge upgrade kit for the oem gauge on dash. Apparently resolving the issue of it being unreliable.

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    Aftermarket engine mounts with a stiffer bush to help eliminate engine flex with the additional power, i didn't go crazy stiff because a little flex isn't bad and helps reduce vibration.

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    Science of Speed refurbished oil pump with billet oversized gear, they replace all the seals and machine the factory oem pump to accept a bigger billet gear than provides more oil pressure. The factory gear is made from cast and they are known to fail (shatter) causing loss possible engine failure.

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    CT Engineering / Comptech Adjustable cam gears, these feature a locking pin that stop them from moving and also super light weight compared to oem and Toda which actually is a modified oem part.

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    Cometic metal head gaskets, the early cars had a weak gasket and is the limiting factor when turbo charging the factory engine, later models had metal gaskets from factory and is one of the reasons you can run a little more power on the later engines.

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    Arp Head bolt and main block stud kit. The other recommended upgrade when turbo charging a factory engine, allot of the guys in the States only upgrade the head gaskets and studs to run a little more power with the next upgrade being pistons for a little more again.

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    Cedar Ridge cam pulley upgrade, the factory pulley is spring loaded and has been known to fail, this is a fixed solution.

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    Power Enterprise timing belt, just a stronger belt that oem.

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    Ferrea forged oversized valves, the C30A has 1mm smaller valves than the C32B, i believe from memory it's only on the intake side.

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    Brian Crower Springs, Retainers and Seats. I chose steel over titanium because you hear about titanium being brital and apparently they can snap.

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  10. #20

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    This is certainly no ordinary upgrade, it appears you've done a lot research into every single possiblity of mechanical weak spots and failures, very impressive jaffaz32, 👏
    It would also be very interesting to know how much each part costs if that's ok with you???

    When do you hope to get her on the road, I bet you're feeling both very excited and a little apprehensive all at the same time.😬

    Please keep the info and progress coming as I'm sure there's a lot of us on here who are looking forward to your next posting.
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

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