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Thread: Jaffaz32's Boosted Stroker Build

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    Brian Crower crank shaft, 99% of guys run with the stock crank but i decided to go for a 3.4 stroker build. This will improve overall torque, improve lag and make the engine more lively out of boost. It's mostly lighter and it's forged. The crank helped me to get away with a 9.2:1 compression. The main reason though for me personally is ultimately reliability.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is a cheeky pic of the engraving on the crank.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And here is the real P0rn In this picture you see the main block with Darton Sleeves installed. Heads with the oversized valves installed. The turbo which is a Garrett GTX, the GTX series features a billet turbine with Tial exhaust side which all helps improve spool time and then it was ceramic coated which help with temps, lower temps mean better spool, more efficient and keeps the temps away from everything else. The comptech adjustable cam gears. CP 9.2:1 forged pistons and Brian Crower forged rods.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I just want to add also

    Anyone else planning on building an engine and speccing out a motor one thing that is always overlooked is the piston size.

    Most people think bigger is better, this is wrong.... People think if they get the biggest pistons availible their capacity (cc) will increase. Well it does BUT... increasing a piston by 1 or 2mm makes such a small difference for example i believe the factory capacity of the C30A is something like 2997 increasing the pistons by 2mm the capacity will still be closer to 3.0 than 3.1. The increase in torque, will not be noticable in fact you may lose reliability as the bigger you go the less cylinder wall there is.

    So why increase pistons size?

    Well the idea is, you should go as small as you can install and if a piston fails, you get the bores machines and go .5 over size or bigger depending on how much was needed to be machined to get a baby smooth non damaged bore.

    So how do you increase displacement? 3.2 or 3.4

    With a stroker kit that consists of Crank, rods and pistons.
    Last edited by jaffaz32; 18-10-2016 at 04:13 PM.

  3. #43

    Default

    Wow!!! 😳 faffaz32 that last picture looks fantastic, did the guys at Plans lay those parts out for the picture and if so well done for keeping up this fantastic build thread.👍😎
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pride View Post
    Wow!!!  faffaz32 that last picture looks fantastic, did the guys at Plans lay those parts out for the picture and if so well done for keeping up this fantastic build thread.
    They did, easily pleased me haha.

    Thanks.

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    The factory coil packs are made from stone and flint, in the world of technology they are very old.

    I have been searching for years to find an upgraded aftermarket coil packs, up until recently no one made them for the Nsx.

    On a Forced Induction build a good strong spark is very important, it's the difference between detonation. To work with the factory coil packs in the passed you have to close the gap on the plugs a crazy amount. If the spark isn't strong enough you can also suffer from something known as spark blowout.

    Like back in the old days, to get more power from a NA car you would replace the plugs, leads and distributor. This is the same principle a stronger spark gives you more power on a NA car and offer a element of safety on a Force Induction car.

    www.amwdynoservice.com Has developed a kit using Bosch coil packs from a modern supercar, this will provide a better/stronger spark compared to the factory coil packs. These come with a harness and are plug n play also replacing the factory wiring harness from the igniter including the igniter itself (little black box behind the throttle body).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is another pic

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    Not only for performance reasons i wanted to replace all the factory coil packs with brand new just because it's a electrical part partially exposed to the elements that is now 20 years old. For peace of mind and good practice. The factory coil packs cost a small fortune, it made sense instead of paying all that for oem to upgrade them offering more protection to the engine at the same time.

    I think i must have about 4 sets of oem coil packs sitting at home, consisting of brand new and used
    Last edited by jaffaz32; 21-10-2016 at 01:00 PM.

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