Wheel Spacers

[328]

It's a few years since I did mine but yes, get your hub on the bench/vice. You just need to tap out the shorter studs and do the same tapping in the longer ones. If I remember correctly there is a certain position of rotation where you have a clear path for removing/inserting the studs without them interfering/fouling the hub body....It's fairly straight-forward to do....good luck

Cheers for the advice

[scottg]

It's a few years since I did mine but yes, get your hub on the bench/vice. You just need to tap out the shorter studs and do the same tapping in the longer ones. If I remember correctly there is a certain position of rotation where you have a clear path for removing/inserting the studs without them interfering/fouling the hub body....It's fairly straight-forward to do....good luck

My rears are fitted by the MOT guys yesterday and they said they took a front hub off but the new studs are too long to put in unless you split the hub in half and that may effect the bearing? Any advice appreciated. Rears look much better though

[328]

My rears are fitted by the MOT guys yesterday and they said they took a front hub off but the new studs are too long to put in unless you split the hub in half and that may effect the bearing? Any advice appreciated. Rears look much better though

Lol I have done the same as well Scott! Done the rears they look good but one of the guys said the same about dismantling the front.....

[UnhuZ]

Hi,

received mine on Monday.... a big thanks to Paul for setting this up.

Nuno

[Hagasan]

My rears are fitted by the MOT guys yesterday and they said they took a front hub off but the new studs are too long to put in unless you split the hub in half and that may effect the bearing? Any advice appreciated. Rears look much better though

Hi Scott, I can assure you that there is no need to separate the hub body/bearing. If you get your guy to rotate the stud "flange" there will be a position where there is a slightly flatter hub body to flange alignment where you can insert the longer stud in. It will need to be tapped in gently at a very slight angle but it's not an issue where any misalignment or damage will occur. Just get you guy to take a closer look at it off the car...

[scottg]

Hi Scott, I can assure you that there is no need to separate the hub body/bearing. If you get your guy to rotate the stud "flange" there will be a position where there is a slightly flatter hub body to flange alignment where you can insert the longer stud in. It will need to be tapped in gently at a very slight angle but it's not an issue where any misalignment or damage will occur. Just get you guy to take a closer look at it off the car...

Thanks I think I'll have a go myself. I think the garage were just more concerned with damaging something. When the owner bought my car back he pointed out a small split on the leather bolster and said if that was me ill sort it out of r you. I reassure him it was there all along the the relief was evident. He's my neighbour and a good guy how many garages would have done that?

[flyingsniffer]

I tried the fronts today and confirm that I could not insert the longer studs with the hub in place. The head of the stud is just slightly too big to get past the hub body.

I can see where it might have been possible but no amount of jigging and poking resulted in any difference.

A pity, but the hub will have to be separated.

[flyingsniffer]

Unless.......Gary, can you recall if the disc had to be removed? I'm wondering if removing it might just give that tiny bit more lateral flex to jiggle it out. It really is a 'gnat's ****' job.

Disc is on solid, will probably need an impact driver to remove. Any issues with doing this that anyone can envisage? They aren't my favourite tool but much better than a rounded screw head.

[Senninha]

A small drop of penetrating oil overnight, impact driver and off they come ... no issues ... would be good to know if this can be completed on the car ... Thanx

Quick Q --- has everyone received their spacers that ordered?

regards, Paul

[Hagasan]

Yes the disc was removed. But I took the whole assembly off the car. I didn't expose any bearing though. I'd have to look at the parts diagrams to remind myself of all the components. I wasn't a difficult task though for anyone handy enough with some spanners. And yes, I did used and impact drivers to break the screw thread corrosion/locking on. Much better than a mashed head...

Unless.......Gary, can you recall if the disc had to be removed? I'm wondering if removing it might just give that tiny bit more lateral flex to jiggle it out. It really is a 'gnat's ****' job.

Disc is on solid, will probably need an impact driver to remove. Any issues with doing this that anyone can envisage? They aren't my favourite tool but much better than a rounded screw head.