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Thread: Slipping Clutch

  1. #11

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    Thanks Mark, I’m going to print this out. I really appreciate the info, I have worked on cars a lot and when I get sick and tired of it, it takes a lot of gumption to get back into it. Rally car building is ok, it’s the repairs on broken road cars that pisses me off.

    I had considered dropping the entire engine/gearbox/ suspension assembly. Then putting the gearbox back on (I will be alone) might be easier.
    What do you think? Drop or don't drop.
    '88 Daihatsu Charade GTti: 993cc, 3 cyl, what's your excuse?
    '92 Cosworth Escort 340hp
    Lotus 26R S2 (under construction)
    '78 Escort MkII rally car
    an ugly white van
    and I left the best for last
    '91 NSX

  2. #12

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    Peter, I don't think I'd go that route myself.

    A couple additional moves and potential problems spring to mind...

    1) You'd have to drain and disconnect the water system.
    2) You'd have to disconnect the A/C system.
    3) You'd have to remove most of not all of the exhaust system, inc manifolds??
    4) You'd have to take off even more of the suspension components.
    5) If you meant dropping the engine/gearbox out from under the car, I can't see how you'd get it high enough (the car) to do so without a 2/4 post ramp.
    6) If you meant pulling the motor/tranny assembly out through the top, the top looks too narrow.

    I know what you mean about fixing cars when they're actually broken, especially when you have to have them fixed to use for work etc on the following Monday morning.

    I know I'm lucky with the NSX being a pure toy/fun car and me having the time, space, capability and inclination to do it myself, but I really enjoyed doing the clutch.

    The car is quite a delight to work on with nothing being a total P.I.T.A or being of such a poor design that it was siezed and/or the only way to remove it is to break it like some cars I've worked on! Even the exhaust bolts came straight off, almost never heard of in my experience.

    If/when you do go ahead feel free to ask me for advice here or call me at home on 01276 475448 or Mob 07747 691595 and I'll try to help.

    Also, check VBNSX's Clutch DIY thread on Prime here... http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showt...ght=clutch+diy

    I used this as a guide and while not perfectly detailed it helped a lot.

    Cheers

    Mark

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by markc
    2) You'd have to disconnect the A/C system.
    Sh*t, you’re right.
    '88 Daihatsu Charade GTti: 993cc, 3 cyl, what's your excuse?
    '92 Cosworth Escort 340hp
    Lotus 26R S2 (under construction)
    '78 Escort MkII rally car
    an ugly white van
    and I left the best for last
    '91 NSX

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    RAF Lossiemouth, Moray
    Posts
    1,770

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    After much pondering and deliberation... I've thought to myself F**k it, I'll have a go.
    I'f I get stuck at any stage, I'll scream for help.
    1992 NSX, 3.0 Manual, (Was Sebring Silver) Now Kaiser Silver

    2018 Jaguar XE, 2.0 R-Sport 250, Loire Blue.

    2013 Kawazaki ER6F, Metalic Green.

  5. #15

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    Mutley,

    Happy to offer assistance if you run into any probs, you can contact me as above.

    A couple of other little nuggets I've thought of....

    The Oxygen senors prevent the exhaust from being completely removed and these are easy to damage if you remove them, so I didn't.
    The wiring to the front one is held in place to a heat shield that is bolted to the front support bar/beam. If you unbolt the heat shield and unclip the wire from it's platic retainer you will have enough room to get the heat shield out of the way without removing the o2 sensor from the manifold. Much the same for the rear o2 sensor. However, these may be a bit differant on the 5spd car as the manifolds are a differant design.

    Clutch plate alignment was easy for me as it mine has the single plate clutch, I did it by eye and with my socket extension with was an almost perfect fit in the centre splined drive. Could be a lot more difficult with the twin plate clutch so you might want to borrow a proper alignment tool AND you also have to initialise the two clutch plates on your version.

    I didn't mention disconnecting the gear change cable and removing the clutch slave cylinder but these are both dead easy.
    Remember where you put the split pins for the gear change cables tho', they're easy to loose!

    Lastly tools....
    No really special ones required except a portable engine hoist makes removal and particularly re-install of the 'box much easier. didn't use it for removal as gravitiy is your friend but for re-install it was a huge help. I couldn't balance the 'box on a trolly jack and jack it up squarely to the correct position. It kept catching on the driveshaft or suspension and knock it off centre. Pulling it up from above with the hoist after roping it so that it lifted squarely was soooo much easier.

    That 14mm ratchet-ring spanner and/or a looooong 14mm ring spanner for the troublesome bolt on the front engine mount.

    Other than that a standard 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19mm sockets with a variety of extension lengths and ring spanners of the same sizes should do it.

    Good luck and I'll wait for your call :lol:

    Mark

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    RAF Lossiemouth, Moray
    Posts
    1,770

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    Thanks Mark, sounds like I'll need all the help I can get, but like everything else, I suppose I'll understand more when I'm actually doing the job and can see what's what. Not sure when this will take place though, as I'll have to raise the cash for the parts, and then get the time and the space to do it.

    I'l certainly give you the nod if and when any probs occur.

    thanks again
    1992 NSX, 3.0 Manual, (Was Sebring Silver) Now Kaiser Silver

    2018 Jaguar XE, 2.0 R-Sport 250, Loire Blue.

    2013 Kawazaki ER6F, Metalic Green.

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