-
[16:12 Edit; just realised, goldtop was 3min quicker than my post below....]
Release fork?
Pull it out of the saddle and just let it hanging inside the CL case.
Also, it's hard to see from your photo but looked as if you still have the big long grey front crossbeam in place.
Remove it to have extra room.
Kaz
-
Thanks both for the replies. I haven't removed the clutch lever.
Currently sucking some eggs, thanks Goldtop :D
Probably will remove the front crossmember, although I've undone the bolts but as you say Kaz, it'll make life easier.
-
Hi Wixer,
I'm enjoying this thread. It inspires me to get out and do more on my NSX!
Regarding drive shafts, did you consider buying new ones from RockAuto? They're ridiculously cheap, £54.86 for the L and £82.93 for the R, Trakmotive manual transmission. They also have the left one from GSP for £114.17. I've got a Trakmotive one from them on the left side and it seems to be fine. At the time I decided mine needed doing, they only listed the left one otherwise I would have bought both. There have been posts on Prime about the quality of the Trakmotive ones. Some people weren't happy with the amount of backlash and it seemed to be a bit of a lottery whether you got one with that problem. But at that price I thought it was worth a punt and mine was fine.
Peter
-
Hi Peter,
Glad I've been inspiring you to do some DIY-ing on your car, I'll keep posting. :D
I did look at RockAuto's shafts but felt the Insane Shafts as they're rated at 500HP should give the same length of durability, as a set of OEM shafts on a stock NSX but time will tell.
Glad you have positive feedback on the Trakmotive parts, as it's always good to get recommendations from owners that have tried non OEM parts, it helps other owners make a better judgement to make a decision on their own cars.
Cheers
-
9 Attachment(s)
This weekends progress on the transmission re-fresh.
Dropped the gearbox quite easily, once the fork has been moved out of the way, thanks again guys....
Attachment 14346
Attachment 14338
Attachment 14339
A lot of congealed dust, it's definitely time to do this job.
Attachment 14340
Attachment 14341
Fork has no grease, probably not surprising considering the last clutch change was years ago.
Attachment 14342
and there was no rubber boot on the fork, something I'd never noticed.
Attachment 14343
Attachment 14344
Attachment 14345
-
9 Attachment(s)
More photos.
Looking at the state of all the clutch assembly, I can see why there was a juddering when engaging.
Think the crank oil seal needs to be replaced.
Attachment 14347
Attachment 14348
My new favourite tool made removing the rusty flywheel an easy job
Attachment 14349
Attachment 14350
Attachment 14351
Attachment 14352
bearing completely dry
Attachment 14353
Attachment 14354
Haven't measured the cutch plates thicknesses yet.
Attachment 14355
-
Now this is interesting, I have had my clutch donw twince during my ownership, and I have never had a rubber boot on my clutch fork either! is that a thing? if so, anyone know where to get that part?
Cheers,
Jim
-
Are we talking about item 6 on this page?
https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-c...ission/M__0300
Not too spendy, if so.
Might an early mechanic misplaced/forgot it when swapping out a slave cylinder?
-
Wix, do you think the excessive amount of surface rust you have is a direct result of not having a clutch fork boot??? 🤔
-
To answer your questions,
Yes, it is a thing & yes it's item 6 on the diagram. My S2000 has the boot on it, as I gave the clutch fork a re-greasing a few weeks ago, so definitely should have one on the NSX. I would guess that during a slave cylinder replacement/service, it was not put back on.
The rust on the flywheel is probably down to my car having sat outside or in damp conditions, in a previous owners custody and it not been used on the road enough to help dry things off. Some other areas of corrosion I've found over the last few years would also point to this lack of use. The flywheel, although well covered (assuming the small cover is attached to your car), isn't air tight so moisture can always condense on cold metal parts. This is why using your car all year round is a must, if it's sat outside & not in a nice dry warm garage. I keep my S2000 outside now, so it will be used all year, the only time I won't use it, is when there's salt on the roads.