Hi, just need owner opinion. I noticed my oil pan is dented, but seems like not serious dent? But not sure how much dent is considered ok so need a opinion. Big job so need to make sure that i really need to change it before starting. Thanks.
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Hi, just need owner opinion. I noticed my oil pan is dented, but seems like not serious dent? But not sure how much dent is considered ok so need a opinion. Big job so need to make sure that i really need to change it before starting. Thanks.
Unsure if the internal oil take-up is touched or not. If the gap between it and the bottom of the oil pan is too small the oil pump might starve which sets the engine at risk.
Because of the angle of your photo, hard to tell but looked to be quite serious dent.
As goldnsx mentioned, you could end up with oil starvation.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Not great photo but hope you can get some idea on the small clearance between the bottom of the sump and the oil pickup point.
Probably fine for city cruising but I would be very cautious generating huge lateral G and not even attempt the trackday without first fixing it.
Kaz
thanks for the reply. decided to repair the pan and im glad i did. the mech that done this car before does a bad ****in job. silicon gasket everywhere. and the cap bridge they manage to screw up the o-ring and cracked the seat groove. how bad/critical is this o-ring groove? i really hope not a big one i really broke since the covid quarantine... if need to be replaced i have no $$ for it.... im checking one of the crank bearing just to see if anything happen... hope nothing serious as from what i see the cylinder bore is still good... and how's the oil pickup look? ok?
Regarding the strainer/oil pickup - hard to tell from the photo but if in doubt, just replace it.
Should be around GBP50 in Japan.
Bit too late but I won't touch the cap bridge unless I have to but then, you found the hidden issue.
The cap bridge is not NSX specific and shared with other models so not that expensive.
Probably less than GBP50 in Japan so just replace it instead of repairing though I don't like the idea of relaxing the bolts around the cap after the engine went through so many miles, heat cycles, vibration, etc.
Definitely recommend not to touch the cap bolt.
If you relax the metal halves and just retorque the cap bolts even with the specified sequences, it won't be the same as before.
Kaz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
uh oh... damn... if i just reassemble it will it be a big issue? or i need to remove all the cap bolts and retorque it? i decided to buy a new pickup anyway since it kissed the oil pan already leaving a nice mark stamping on the pan bottom... i also hope this is the reason why the car sounds awful on cold start and fix the issue.
buttoned up everything, no leaks and all good so far. engine feels a lot smoother too. thanks guys for pushing me to repair the pan. but geez... i wonder what happen to the crank cap, rod bearings and cam caps now... i hope it hang in there for a while until i can pull out the engine for full refresh.
Refresh? Is the engine so bad?
I'd do an oil analysis and compression test before going that route.
Quote:
Originally Posted by goldnsx
so far so good, idle smooth ( need vc service tho, ticks a bit ), but after the pan shenanigans, pretty sure the cam seat, bearings not good... just for ease of mind. car at 101k miles now, maybe a good time for refresh soon. this is not a good example car, prev owner most likely doesn't take care of it enough because it's a honda lol. but i do get it cheap so no complaint.