Is this fine example (well, after the detail) anyone's NSX on here?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHh6H...layer_embedded
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Is this fine example (well, after the detail) anyone's NSX on here?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHh6H...layer_embedded
Who polished it fo rthe past 7k miles .... Torvil & Dean?
Look out for it at top dollar on PH soon :)
Nice to see it being looking like a mint example that it is at the end of Paul's hard work ....
So who managed to read the tax disc then??
Are we sure they didn't go over the car with some 1200 grit first, just to make an impressive before and after scenario? :eek:
So is this just after a session of detailing i.e temporary or is it paint correction where the lacquer is sanded down?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Senninha
Most paint looks like this once you've taken all the 'autoglym resin polish' off. Strip lights show up every little blemish, but modern polishes/waxes usually cover up the worst of it. I guess the dilemma is how often do you properly correct the paint. If you use the car regularly, it's going to pick up chips and scratches on a daily basis. Makes you wonder where they all come from. I have a love hate relationship with cleaning NSXs. Whatever people say, they're bastards to clean properly. The 997 I owned was a gift compared, partly because the paint was much harder.
Cheers,
James.
AFAIK all of Miracles work is based on machine polishing of the paint work, not the wet sanding process ...
If the car is going up for sale? A 4K miles NA02+ is going to fetch some serious
dough!
Is this a common thing amongst German cars? My daily C Class is far easier to keep on its toes compared to the CRV. Both respond well to cleaning/polishing, but the C Class retains its lustre for much longer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papalazarou
Maybe I should leave the wrap on S2 and continue not to worry ??
regards, Paul
I think the colour's got a lot to do with it. In my experience Greys, silver and white seem to resist scratches more. Red, blue and black, not so good. I concede that perception is partly based on the how colours look under certain lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by Senninha
I remember being quite impressed with IOP.
Cheers,
James.
It does look unbelievably bad for a 7K mile old car!Quote:
Originally Posted by NSXGB
Regardless of whether you machine "polish" or wet sand you're removing the high spots of the lacquer to create a smooth surface. The skill is to remove the absolute minimum to leave a perfectly smooth finish. Of course you can only do it so many times before you run out of lacquer :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Senninha
The alternative is to fill the low spots with a optically clear material, a "wax", then polish the surface to a "mile deep shine" which most of us do regularly.
Washing carefully with good technique and products before applying a decent "wax" regularly will stop the scratches appearing in the first place :)
Is the lacquer used over different colours actually different or is it just that certain colours underneath highlight the imperfections in the lacquer above leading to the perception of more scratches as you suggest? I think that flat, non metallic, finishes rather than particular colours per se usually look like they pick up scratches more easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by Papalazarou
As you should be ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Papalazarou
Cheers
Mark
I'm not sure whether the clearcoat is different. I know that LBB and fomula red have a tint, but again, not sure if that makes any difference to the integrity of the laquer. Probably not.
I would imagine that it is as you point out Mark. The colour which changes our perception of scratch resistance.
I've just bought the machine polish system that many of the bodyshops use, so will be interested to see how it works out and how long it is before the scratches begin to reappear.
Your point about washing is totally valid. Many car enthusiasts just drag the dirty sponge over the car then slap on some resin polish and the car looks passable. But never great.
Certainly some TFR, a wash Mit, a large bucket and a power washer will reduce wash related damage.
Cheers,
James.
Cheers,
James.
the 2 bucket wash is also very important, a decent mit and a well maintained drying towel is a MUST. Plus washing your own car always helps unless you know someone who is sh1t hot at washing your car :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Papalazarou
From what I can see, it looks like a later 04/05 car, unless the owner has changed the gearknob at some point which maybe doubtful as they are £791.04 for just the knob!!!
Having just posted some photos of the car and Paul's video I saw this thread - so apologies for the double thread!
The car is a late 04 which now has around 8,500 miles on the clock. As explained in the other thread, the car was a show car for a Honda dealer for over a year, so it will have been dry dusted many times - hence the swirl marks.
Paul did not need to use any wet sanding to get this finish - he told me he was using the softest pads and compounds given how soft the lacquer is. He's good at taking off the very minimum of lacquer, but now the car is protected with waxes and sealants, and will be washed with care, the car should never again this level of correction.
Cheers
I wasnt too far wrong then with the year! lol Very nice car and the finish look fantastic.
Good detailing thread here
http://www.stuttgart9.co.uk/forum/ca...orn-alert.html