NSX Health Check Service

The Goodridge Brake Hose kit. Considering the UK road environment during the winter, I went for the Stainless fitting and not the Zinc plated one. May be over-spec but additional peace of mind... It took about 2 - 3 wks for the delivery as it was not stocked at the manufacture. It came with lifetime gurantee as well.
Attachment 6143

When the owner bought this NSX, the calliper was pianted in red. Well, sort of...
Attachment 6144
It was already peeling off and looked very tired. The owner didn't like the red and wanted to have the same style as mine which is matt black (02 Type-R). So, stripped the red paint off and painted in matt black using the engine head cover paint. Now it looks really cool for both front and the rear.
Attachment 6146 Attachment 6145 Attachment 6147

By the way, the rear disk is the OEM one. For the earlier model, you can save a lot by selecting the OEM one compared to the aftermarket ones.

2. ABS re-visited and the Brake master Cyl OH
As in my previous post, I think there are lots of NSX with partially failed solenoid on ABS system without being noticed by the owner. This NSX was one of them and initially, it was not possible to recover one of its solenoid. It was electrically fine but mechanically, it was just stuck closed. Under this condition, there will be no warning light on the dash.
Attachment 6148
I wanted to try the same trick again and this time, I managed to recover the functionalities.

Once again, the Brake Master Cyl was not serviced for a long time.... There were so many rust at the Booster cover as well as at the base of the Master Cyl. I nearly picked up the phone to call the owner for the permission to replace them altogether.
Attachment 6149 Attachment 6150

However, after initial cleaning, it was possible to recover them so cleaned them really well and refurbished it using the OH kit.

Then, as I didn't know the history of this NSX, checked the gap of the booster pushrod to be 100% sure about the gap requirement. Now the brake master cyl is back to its original performance.
Attachment 6151 Attachment 6152

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kzukNA1

Hi, Mark.

If you look at the 4th photo of the post #67, you'll see the part no and the parts included in the Front OH kit for later spec Front Calliper.
It's 01463-SL0-J01.
You need two of these for the Front.

For your referece, followings are some of the prices in UK.

HUK price for LATER spec Front calliper
Front OH kit: 80.89 inc.VAT x 2 = 161.78
Front Piston 34mm: 38.16 inc.VAT x 2 = 76.32
Front Piston 40mm: 63.94 inc.VAT x 2 = 127.88

Addition to these, I normally replace the following for the front calliper service. Parts no and image included in the same photo of post #67.
Bleeder screw: 4.67 inc.VAT x 2 = 9.34
Cap, bleeder screw: 2.70 inc. VAT x 2 = 5.40

So, if you go down the route of HUK, you'll be looking at at least 380.00 just for some of the Front Calliper Parts...

As I always service my calliper every 2 -3 years, I don't want to pay this figure so I always order them from Japan or US.

Hope this will help.

Regards,
Kaz

---

Fantastic Kaz, great information as usual.

HUK's NSX prices never cease to amaze do they? £80+ for a couple of rubber seals!!!

As you probably know I do like to work on my own cars but just maybe this job is one for you, especially if you can get the parts much cheaper. I'll be in touch.

Cheers

Mark

Hi, Mark.
Looking forward to hearing from you and working on your NSX in the near future.

Regards,
Kaz

3. Driveshaft and MTF

Another typical service that seems to be left until the very last moment is the driveshaft OH. On this NSX, there was no damage to the boot itself but the grease was leaking from the edge of the boot. The leaked grease was splashed everywhere and required long time to clean it.
Attachment 6155 Attachment 6156
The grease leakage can also damage the nearby short coolant hose at the Engine Oil Cooler Base with the addition of heat from the header/exhaust.
Therefore, it is important to clean this oil cooler area as much as possible.
Attachment 6157 Attachment 6158

As the driveshaft joint lost so much grease, the remaining grease turned into black colour although it looks gray in this photo due to the flashlight of the camera.
Attachment 6159

As the state of the remaining grease was so bad, it was decided to service the roller bearing and re-pack the fresh grease. There are 3 rollers on each joints so 12 of them in total...
Attachment 6160 Attachment 6161

At the final stage of the OH, you'll need to adjust the amount of the air inside the boot by adjusting the entire length of the driveshaft and then tighten the boot band.
Then, re-install both driveshaft back on the hub and stake the spindle nut against the driveshaft.
Attachment 6162 Attachment 6163

During the driveshaft OH, you'll need to drain the MTF or ATF before removing the Left side driveshaft.

For the MT car, it is good idea to check and clean the strainer before re-filling the fresh MTF. You may struggle to remove the strainer cover if it was ignored for a long time and it can be easily damaged if it was not removed before. The one on this NSX was so corroded that it was decided to be replaced with the new one with the O-ring.
Attachment 6164 Attachment 6165 Attachment 6166

Refill the MTF (Honda MTF-3) and leave it until it stops dripping from the filler hole.
Attachment 6167 Attachment 6168

4. Main Relay
The famous Main Relay.
The owner bought it a while ago but didn't have time to install it so I just done it for him.

I always would like to keep the original one and re-solder it to be used as an emergency spare in case someone needs it urgently. I always keep it in my boot. I asked the same for this owner to help other members....
Attachment 6169 Attachment 6170 Attachment 6171

5. Front Wing Inner and Cover
Originally, this NSX had lowered suspension kit with unsuitable alignment and chassis setup.
Because of this, the black plastic part inside the front wing and also the cover behind the A/C condensor fan were damaged.
The old set on the left and the new set on the right.
Attachment 6172

As black is one of the most important factor to sharpen the image of the car, we decided to replace all of them at the front.
Not great photo but it really improved the image of the car.
Attachment 6173 Attachment 6174 Attachment 6175

I had an opportunity to work on one of the beautiful NSX owned by the well known member here on NSXCB.

It was for the famous Crank Pulley...

The owner spotted the first sign of the issue a while ago and he applied temporary measure before visiting my place.

Previously, the timing belt on this NSX was serviced by the reputable garage so I was hoping to be able to remove the pulley bolt without majour effort. Wrong idea...

The original workshop manual didn't show the cleaning and greasing method for this bolt so quite often, I found it very hard to loosen it.

This one was not greased at all so although the specified torque was 245Nm, I used about 700Nm just to loosen it a little. Had to apply similar force several times before the bolt became loose enough for the removal.

After removing the pulley, it was inspected and without the temporary measure applied by the owner, the balancer came off with ease so I'm glad we carried out the service now.
When it is new, it will look like the photo on the left.
The one removed from this NSX without the temporary measure.
The new one installed.
Attachment 6178 Attachment 6176 Attachment 6177

After replacing the crank pulley, I had an opportunity to drive this NSX.
It has really nice chassis setup including the special suspension kit and many other modifications. It's following the latest trend of the suspension setup that is comfortable for the every day usage but once start driving fast, it allows you to shift the weight with ease. The alignment setup was also spot on.
Very smooth and powerful engine thanks to the mod on the header/exhaust with the combination of aftermarket LSD and felt like it had the modified final ratio.

I heard that this NSX will be in the hand of new owner soon so I hope he/she will keep these nice modifications and looks after it for a long time. You'll be glad to know that the crank pulley has been replaced and the pulley bolt was cleaned/greased properly.


Regards,
Kaz

Hi, all.

For 15 years, I have been carrying out the Health Check on my NSX every 6 months as long as I was in the country.

I better remind the owners who visited my place around spring time for another Health Check session and possibly replacing the Eng Oil at the same time if it has not been done yet.

So, although I was very busy over the last several months, I managed to find some time to carry out the Health Check on my 94 NSX. As I always get similar questions about this service, here is some information for you.

1. The check sheet
Attachment 6241
This is the same sheet that I use for everyone. It covers about 150 points and if the owner is happy for me to drive his/her NSX, I’ll include several points from the short test driving session. It will enable me to feel the brake, alignment, clutch, AT, tyre and so on.

2. The Prioritised Health Check Report
Attachment 6242
After the Health Check, you’ll receive the report with prioritised future service recommendation in three different priorities. Following is one of the example reports that I sent to the owner recently.

Then, using this report, we can discuss about which services to be carried out in the near future based on the available time and also the budget.
Also, you need to think ahead and be prepared for some of the services required based on the mileage.

This time for my NSX, I replaced the Eng oil and the Oil filter then found the following points to be addressed.

1. Left side Headlight unit
Due to the design of headlight adjuster, the headlight unit tends to rattle after several years. Also, my NSX is the JDM and it doesn’t have electrical headlight height adjuster that doesn’t help the situation. Long time ago, I worked on this but it looks like they need another treatment.

2. Crank Pulley
My NSX has covered more than 123,000miles so based on JDM service interval, I was planning to replace the timing belt later this year. However, it looks like I don’t need to do it for several months.
As I need to replace the clutch at the similar timing that I am thinking of taking out the engine and gearbox out of the chassis so that I can carry out some refresh work inside the engine and the gearbox.
Having said this, I don’t want to delay replacing my crank pulley so decided to go ahead and replace it now.

Attachment 6246 Attachment 6245
The SST holding the Crank Pulley in place and the pulley bolt cleaned and greased properly. The original manual didn’t touch on how and where to clean/grease this bolt so some of the NSX required huge torque to loosen this bolt.
As in my previous post, I had to apply around 700Nm for one of the member here. The timing belt was replaced in the past but the pulley bolt was not greased properly. Mine came off with reasonable torque.

Attachment 6243
The new pulley.

Attachment 6244
The pulley came off from my NSX (left) and the one from one of the member here (right). The balancer split off from the pulley. You don't want to see this on your NSX....

3. Fuel Filter
It’s time to replace this again so waiting for the part to be to be delivered.

4. Air Filter
I use OEM filter and replace it regularly based on the mileage and/or visual inspection.
Hold your filter against the sun and if you couldn’t see it through, then it is best to replace it even if it hasn’t reached the specified replacement mileage.

5. Cleaning TH Butterfly and EACV
My NSX is not DBW model so it still has EACV for idle control. One of the reason why I don’t use aftermarket air filter is that some of them can release small amount of oil over the time and making TH butterfly and port for the EACV very dirty.
It’s time to clean the TH butterfly and EACV again. Regular cleaning will keep your idle rpm stable.

Attachment 6247 Attachment 6248
The front and back face of the TH as well as the internal wall of rubber accordion between the airbox and the TH body looked very clean so I’m happy.
Inlet chamber had some black mist due to blowby but quite normal for early C30A engine. On C30A later model and C32B, the routing of blowby was changed to cope with this oil mist in the blowby under high G cornering.

6. Battery
My battery will be 5 years old in November. As my NSX is everyday car, I don’t feel any weak cranking at the moment even in the cold morning but it’s best to replace it before it suddenly decides to give up. I may consider getting the dry cell type this time…..

7. Cleaning A/C evaporator
As in my previous post, unfortunately, our NSX doesn’t have any sort of pollen filter for the cabin air quality. Therefore, any dust, fume, leaves, etc will be sucked into the blower motor unit unless you are using the re-circ mode 100% of the time. This is regardless of whether you use the A/C or not. Anything managed to get inside the blower motor unit will be directed to the surface of A/C evaporator resulting in build up of horrible dirt or even mould…
If you don’t clean your evaporator regularly, then, you don’t want to know what you are breathing while you are driving… If you look at your cabin temperature sensor head located just below the ashtray in front of your MT/AT shift lever, anything trapped there will show you the quality of your cabin air. You may not be able to see the sensor if it was like the one from one of the owner here.
Attachment 6249

Attachment 6250 Attachment 6251
So, removed the battery, plastic drain channel, the cover, the blower motor and cleaned them all.
The quick filter that I made last time worked quite well as the inside of the blower motor was very clean.

Attachment 6252 Attachment 6253 Attachment 6257
Just quick clean on the evaporator and made another filter.

Attachment 6256 Attachment 6254
The filer goes under the plastic panel below the wiper arm under the bonnet.
If you are going to carry out this process, it would be best to get hold of some of the spare plastic clips holding the rubber weatherstrip under the bonnet as it is so easy to break them after long years.

8. Driver seat slide motor
I started to notice that when it was very cold in the morning, the fore/aft sliding motor/gear of driver seat made strange noise. It sounded like struggling to slide. When it’s warm, no problem at all. So, removed the driver seat and took it outside of the cabin. Re-greased the spiral guide and the seat rail and the noise disappeared.


I was also working on another NSX recently so I'll post the detail soon.

Kaz

Kaz,
What do you recommend for cleaning the TB? Something like this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Auto.../sd2795/p30713

Is it just a case of spraying it down the TB when the engine is running or spraying the TB with engine off and cleaning what you can with a rag, then a good dose while the engine is running?

Kaz, is this the 1st or 2nd crank pulley that you've changed on your car?

The one that you changed for a member here, what age and mileage of the car? I think from previous discussions the crank pulley is not on the servicing schedule? Is this best being done the same time as the timing belt?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kzukNA1

The pulley from one of the member here. The balancer split off from the pulley. You don't want to see this on your NSX....

---

I was looking for the large bolt that kept that one together until you could replace it ;)

It would appear to be another of those preventitive changes worth doing for peace of mind ....

Quote:

---

The filter goes under the plastic panel below the wiper arm under the bonnet.
If you are going to carry out this process, it would be best to get hold of some of the spare plastic clips holding the rubber weatherstrip under the bonnet as it is so easy to break them after long years.

---

Hi Kaz,

As always, thank you for the detailed info.

What is the process for removing the plastic panel please? Is it just the wiper arms and these clips to release it? Is there anything else that needs removal to access this filter and unit for cleaning?

Thank you

Paul

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NSXGB

Kaz,
What do you recommend for cleaning the TB? Something like this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Auto.../sd2795/p30713

Is it just a case of spraying it down the TB when the engine is running or spraying the TB with engine off and cleaning what you can with a rag, then a good dose while the engine is running?

---

Hi, NSXGB.

Carburettor cleaner or similar products designed for cleaning intake manifold would be the safest thing to use.

Please read the instruction on the side of the can as some products will state to be used only when the engine is cold.
Never use brake cleaner for this purpose as it could trigger fire or even release lethal chemical in the air.

Be gentle on the TB and never apply any force. While the engine is off, open the TB and gently wipe off any dirt from the front/back surface of the TB. At the same time, spray small amount of cleaner into the intake channel and wipe off any black residue. Don’t spray too much otherwise you’ll struggle to start up the engine at the next step.

Start the engine and remove the PCV valve from the head cover. Spray the cleaner at the PCV valve in short burst several times.

For non-DBW model, the TB is closed at the idle rpm and the air is fed through the bypass port which is at the upper side of the TH body. Open the TB slightly to keep the rpm higher than the idle and spray the cleaner in short burst mode aiming at the bypass port.

Stop the engine and remove the clock fuse to reset the ECU.
Go out for a short driving to let the ECU to learn the new study value.

After this process, you may need to adjust the idle rpm so be prepared.
If you don’t know the procedure or don’t have the rpm monitor, it is best to let someone else to do the job for you.

Regards,
Kaz

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheSebringOne

Kaz, is this the 1st or 2nd crank pulley that you've changed on your car?

The one that you changed for a member here, what age and mileage of the car? I think from previous discussions the crank pulley is not on the servicing schedule? Is this best being done the same time as the timing belt?

---

Hi, TheSebringOne.

This is the 3rd pulley for my NSX although it will be my 2nd Timing belt service next time.

I don’t know the exact mileage/age when the balancer split off on the member’s NSX because he/she already spotted the issue before arriving at my place.
The service was carried out as an emergency case and the owner applied short term fix before arriving at my place. However, I do know that his/her NSX was used on the track many times.

While the mileage and age will play some factor for this issue, the biggest factor would be the driving condition such as the sudden change in RPM and the heat. So, for some owners, the pulley will be fine for more than 10 years whereas for some of us, it will fail earlier than that.

You will be surprised to know how heavy the balancer is and it is only held in place by the rubber.
So, inevitably, if you make sudden change in rpm, it will snap off after many years. You can’t judge it just by the mileage or the age. Also, you can't see it from outside as the balncer is hidden by the pulley.

Although it is not defined as regular service item, it is a common practice to replace this at least at the time of timing belt service among the people who works on NSX regularly in Japan.

For those who track their NSX or drive aggressively, it is best to replace it more frequently.

Regards,
Kaz

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Senninha

.....

What is the process for removing the plastic panel please? Is it just the wiper arms and these clips to release it? Is there anything else that needs removal to access this filter and unit for cleaning?

Thank you

Paul

---

Hi, Paul.

In order to access the inlet channel of the blower motor unit, you only need to remove the plastic pins (7 - 8 of them) holding the long sideway weatherstrip at the front of the plastic panel. Once the weatherstrip is off, you can lift the front section of the panel.

You can't remove the entire panel off the car without removing another trim at the bottom of the windscreen. I don't recommend removing this trim as it is held by special yellow clip and it is so easy to break it as it is getting very old by now.

There is no filter attached from the factory so if you are going to make something by yourself, you need to keep the bottom of your filter material well off the chassis panel to avoid absorbing the water. Any water will get in there through the meshed section of the top panel around the front suspension mount area and so on.

Obviously, you need to remove the blower motor unit to clean the evaporator.
In order to remove the blower motor, you'll need to remove the spare tyre holder, the battery, the relay box, the drain channel and disconnect the three connectors on the blower unit. You will also need to separte the cable clamp at the drain channel. You can get some idea through the manual but it is best to look at on your NSX as some of us installed aftermarket HID units, different battery, removed spare tyre holder and so on.
Be careful not to damage the two plastic pins/studs at the side of blower motor case holding the water valve and the coolant hose unit for the heater core.


Regards,
Kaz

Thanks Kaz, just to confirm that the job to change the crank pulley is alot easier when you are also changing the TB at the same time? Thanks

Timing Belt (TB) is located inside the black plastic cover and the Crank Pulley (CP) is outside of this cover.

So, you can replace the CP any time you want without disturbing the TB.
No need to be at the same time.
TB service will require lots of preparation/procedures even before being able to access the TB itself so replacing only the CP is much easier.

You'll need to remove the CP again at the time of TB service but I would be happy to do so knowing that the CP Bolt would come off with ease as it was cleaned/greased properly and more importantly, I don't need to worry about the CP issue.

Kaz

Once again, it’s time to work on the Brake, Coolant system and so on.

This NSX was imported from Japan and there were lots of service record in Japanese so I translated them into English. This document helped a lot on understanding what was done while the car was in Japan.

During the Health Check Test Driving session, it was pointed out to the owner that the brake was nowhere near to the standard of NSX.
So, back to my place and serviced them.

1. ABS
Although the fluid inside the reservoir was replaced in the past, there was no history of flushing the system and activating each solenoid. By the way, you can activate the ABS by locking the wheels under braking in a safe open space to keep it healthy but it is almost impossible to detect the sticky solenoid (closed) failure by this method. Also, you won’t be able to replace the fluid in the solenoid chamber without flushing one solenoid at a time and replacing the fluid after each flush.

So, out comes the ABS T-wrench and this was what inside….
Attachment 6259 Attachment 6258
So much air in the accumulator.
Flushed it twice before moving onto the solenoid flush.

In the process of flushing each solenoid.
Attachment 6260
Luckily, all four solenoids were electrically and mechanically operating fine with no stick. As I don’t want to suck back the air and potential dirt into the flushed accumulator in the first step, I normally replace the entire reservoir fluid after each solenoid flush. As there are four solenoids, you will be repeating this four times.

After all four solenoids were flushed, I’ll flush the accumulator two more times to complete the service. By this time, the fluid flushed into the T-wrench would be clean and clear from any air apart from the small amount left inside the shaft of T-wrench and the tiny ones through the thread of bleeder plug.

2. Brake Calliper
Quite often, I was asked why we need to service the calliper when there is no leak or even the pedal feels fine.

Well, first of all, you don’t want to wait until you find the leakage. You can stop the car with engine failure but it will be a different story for a brake failure.

Even if the seal at the piston was fine, any rust on the piston will allow the small leakage and quite often, you won’t notice it unless you overhaul the calliper as you can’t see the rust from outside and the initial leakage would be trapped by the dust boot.

Rust can cause piston to seize and as our Front calliper has dual pistons, you won’t be able to tell the difference from the pedal feeling unless you know the original stopping power of our NSX from Day1.

So, started the overhaul and found this….
Attachment 6262 Attachment 6263 Attachment 6264
Unfortunately, the person worked on this NSX didn’t check the installation of the dust boots.
On both Front Left and Right, the dust boots were not installed properly causing the rust on the piston sleeve.
Attachment 6261
There was no leakage but enough damage was done and the pistons didn’t slide smoothly. As the rust was so deep into the pistons, I had to replace them.

Also, the rust managed to get to the thread of bleeder plug so I normally just replace them as a standard procdedure.
Attachment 6265

There are several ways to install the dust boots but the key thing is to double check it.
Attachment 6268

First, install the dust boot and then feel it all the way round with your finger that the boot is sitting firmly inside the groove of calliper.
Then, install the pistons and push them all the way in.
Attachment 6270

Now, to double check the installation, push out the pistons carefully to see the seating of boot and then push them back in again.
Attachment 6269

Similar story for the Rear but rotate it instead of pushing in.
Attachment 6271 Attachment 6272 Attachment 6273

3. Brake Master Cyl
Once again, it’s time to work on the master cyl.
As mentioned in the past, there is no English manual on how to overhaul (OH) this.

Here is the small leakage already seen at the Brake Master Cyl without being noticed by the owner and the OH kit.
Attachment 6274 Attachment 6275

As always, there is no gurantee that the pushrod gap was never touched so it is important to double check it using the SST.
Attachment 6276

4. Goodridge Stainless fitting (not Zinc plated one) Brake line
Considering the road condition during the winter, I prefer to use Stainless fitting rather than the standard Zinc plated one for the brake hose.
Attachment 6277 Attachment 6279 Attachment 6280

It states that it’s guaranteed for life time so it would be interesting to see how it goes as I’m hoping the owner will come back for my health check service every 6 months so that I can build up the carte for each NSX.
Attachment 6278

5. Painting Calliper
The owner wanted to have the callipers painted in red with ‘NSX’ logo in white.
I have quite good experience with black paint but not familiar with the red one.
Also, I don’t have powder coating facility and I don’t know any good places nearby, so we agreed to paint them as a red paint test session. I used three coats of Hammerite leaving almost 12Hrs between each coats although it says 4Hrs. Quite happy with the result so let’s see how it will stand the heat and the chipping.

The Front Before and After. The flash of camera makes it like orange but it's really bright Red.
Attachment 6281 Attachment 6282

And the Rear.
Attachment 6283 Attachment 6284

Looks nice through BBS.
Attachment 6285

6. Main Relay
The famous Main Relay.
Have you already replaced yours?

This NSX is the early model so it is located towards the centre side of the chassis whereas on the later model, it will be close to the right side chassis panel.
Attachment 6286 Attachment 6287
As always, re-soldered the old one and asked the owner to keep it as an emergency spare.


7. Coolant System
This NSX is NA1 AT model so it will require extra hoses for the ATF cooler. In total, there are 25 hoses to be replaced with 49 clamps. The number of hoses and parts no are different for NA1/NA2, MT/AT and so on so be careful.

It took about 15min to warm up the engine so I was quite sure the Thermostat was stuck open. And this is the difference between the old and new one. The one on the left is the original one with stuck open valvle.
Attachment 6288

And the Header Tank.
Attachment 6289
If yours looks like the one on the right, it's time to replace it. I prefer using the OEM one although it tends to crack at the middle or at the base of the cap after several years. The internal design of the tank can't be ignored.

Same for the Coolant fluid. I prefer using Honda Type-2 Blue one. It has been developed by the Honda R&D and it just lasts so long that you'll probably have to replace the hoses before replacing the coolant next time.
Attachment 6290

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kzukNA1

4. Goodridge Stainless fitting (not Zinc plated one) Brake line
Considering the road condition during the winter, I prefer to use Stainless fitting rather than the standard Zinc plated one for the brake hose.
Attachment 6277 Attachment 6279 Attachment 6280

It states that it’s guaranteed for life time so it would be interesting to see how it goes as I’m hoping the owner will come back for my health check service every 6 months so that I can build up the carte for each NSX.
Attachment 6278

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Great work Kaz!

Noticed however that the front Goodridge hoses you have, only have 1 line locator on the front hoses? The hoses I have purchased have 2 locators as per the OEM hoses.

These are the parts replaced.
Attachment 6291

The ones in the Engine Room, at the Centre floor and at the Front under bonnet.
Attachment 6294 Attachment 6292 Attachment 6295

The ones at the Engine Oil Cooler with Figure of ' 8 ' O-ring.
Attachment 6293
Even after carrying out the same service for many times, it still takes 1 - 2Hr just for these 2 hoses.... Seriously...
I'm glad that we replaced all the hoses especially these two. Previously, this NSX had driveshaft grease leakage and lots of grese were covering this short hose. Because of this and with the heat from header, it was already expanded/de-formed and about to burst.

As always, vacuum filled and leak tested the entire system.
Attachment 6298 Attachment 6297 Attachment 6296

Now the coolant system warms up properly and all the hoses will be fine for many years.


8. A/C Evaporator
As in my old post, our NSX doesn't have any pollen filter. So, anything managed (it's quite easy to do so) to get inside the blower fan motor unit, it will be directed to the surface fin of A/C evaporator unit.
And if you haven't washed it for many years, it will look like this....
Attachment 6299 Attachment 6300
I'm afraid this is what you are breathing while you are inside the cabin....

I can't see those two o-rings for the radiator in your pics. Those are very critical as if the NSX looses pressure in the coolant system then it's at those two, even without having a leak.;)

So, once a year, take off your blower motor unit and wash it gently with special chemical designed for aluminium. Be careful with the aluminium surface fin as they are so fragile. I always use soft brush for cleaning.

At the same time, consider making a simple DIY filter at the inlet of blower motor fan. Be careful not to reduce too much air entering the unit to avoid any damages as well as pay extra attention to prevent the filter from absorbing any water in contact.
Now, the evaporator is in much better condition and the uncomfortable smell is gone.
Attachment 6302 Attachment 6301


9. Rear Fog Light Circuit
As mentioned, this NSX is JDM so it has different tail light arrangement compared to UK model and JDM doesn't have factory fitted Rear Fog Light.

Because of this, you need to somehow install the Rear Fog Light.
Unfortunately, the people worked on this NSX carried out not great job and used one of the brake light on each Left and Right Tail lights.
Attachment 6303
Obviously, this will trigger the 'BRKAE LAMP' warning indicator on the dash and they used black tape to hide it... What a great work....

I was so scared to see the modification on the wiring so first put them back as much as possible to the OEM level and then created the new circuit for the Rear Fog Light.

The OEM Switch and the Connector from my precious spare.
And finally, removed the dirty black tape hiding the warning light.
Attachment 6304 Attachment 6305

Now there is no more warning light and the owner will be happy to know that the wiring is back to how it should be.


Took long days to work on this NSX but I'm happy with the result.


Another NSX restored and tailored to the owner's demand.
Happy driving :)


Kaz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by goldnsx

I can't see those two o-rings for the radiator in your pics. Those are very critical as if the NSX looses pressure in the coolant system then it's at those two, even without having a leak.;)

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Hi, goldnsx.

If you look at the plastic tray just below the header tank in the photo of post #112, they are in there.

Also, sometimes, I don't have time to take photo of all the parts so you may find something missing but it is covered in my Service Log document that will be handed to the owner with the photo CD so I hope the owner is happy with them.

Thank you for sharing your advice any way as it will help others which is the aim of my post.

Kaz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sudesh

Great work Kaz!

Noticed however that the front Goodridge hoses you have, only have 1 line locator on the front hoses? The hoses I have purchased have 2 locators as per the OEM hoses.

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Hi, Sudesh.
Yes, I noticed it and it was the same for the two complete set that I bought at the same time from Goodridge (not from ebay...).

However, I don't need the 2nd bracket for the Front as both NSX were equipped with aftermarket dampers without OEM bracket any way so had to use high temp heavy duty tyrap.

Kaz

While I was going through the backup of photos, I found the ones from the day I became the owner of the 94 NSX. It was just like looking at the origin of my Health Check service....

Although I was working very close to NSX, my actual ownership didn’t start until 94.

So, one hot summer day of year 1994 in Japan, after long waiting time, I went to pick up my NSX from one of the best Honda dealership in Tokyo.
I asked the sales executives to put my car on the lift before my arrival. They were not surprised about this request as they knew about my background.
Attachment 6319 Attachment 6320 Attachment 6321
Me and the sales executive under my 94 Red NSX. The white NSX in front. It's the NA1 Type-R that I looked after and drove from time to time for my friend.
From different angle…
Beautiful front section when just arrived from the factory.


Attachment 6322 Attachment 6323
Front suspension area.
I almost forgot about how clean it was around the CAT when it was new….

After spending more than 15 years with about 125,000miles, I still enjoy driving it everyday.

Kaz

Quote:

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Unfortunately, the people worked on this NSX carried out not great job and used one of the brake light on each Left and Right Tail lights.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/attach...1&d=1255905044
Obviously, this will trigger the 'BRKAE LAMP' warning indicator on the dash and they used black tape to hide it... What a great work....

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must have been the same outfit that did mine! i spent ages wondering if i actually had a brake lamp warning light!

I rewired mine to to have a fog lamp switch firing a change over relay to turn on the inner brake lamps..

the brake warning light comes on when the fog lights are on, and brakes are applied, which helps as a dash board reminder to turn off the fog lights when appropriate! brake warning lamp resets when the ignition is switched off.

Hi, all.

I was so busy over the past few weeks with my own business + helping many NSX owners.

Attachment 6329 Attachment 6328 Attachment 6332
Was working on several A/C CCU boards and one of them was really in bad condition. At the end, I used 6 hard wires, 2 jumper wires and 2 soldering bridge.

At the same time, I was working on many Bose Speaker Amps. Lots of capacitors were leaking and some of the damages were enough to cause issues to the Bose in-house ICs…

Addition to these, I was working on Power Steering EPS computer. I’m glad that I managed to fix the issue and for the first time since the owner bought this particular NSX, he managed to drive it with EPS working.

I’ll post the detail in different thread as it was quite interesting story.

Attachment 6333 Attachment 6330
And then, I was helping one of the owner for the Coolant system and Main Relay.

The owner had the coolant system serviced just about 1 month before my Health Check Service but already the coolant level was at the Low level. Also, there was a question mark on the amount of coolant used on the receipt.

So, the owner came back to my place and had the coolant system completely refurbished.
There were significant corrosion at the pipes under the header tank and the coolant was slowly leaking from there. I'm glad we repalced all hoses this time.
If you left your coolant hoses for a long time without replacing them, best to check the ones under the header tank, the short one at the Oil Cooler and the ones in the channel of bottom centre floor.

The famous Main Relay. Just replace it at your earliest opportunity and keep the original one as an emergency spare after resoldering it.

I'm waiting for many parts from Japan and US so I hope I can catch up with all the backlog very soon and help other owners.


Regards,
Kaz