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I spoke with Kowalski about this one ... Remove OEM piece, re-install with strip of alluminium to bolt to and hey presto, smile should be banished. I haven't tried this yet but he certainly has no smile at the rear ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by NSXGB
regards, Paul
[quote=NSXGB;29176]1. Internal door habdle break, - new fix it thingy from Dali fitted.
2. Snap ring - new casing available, but I opted to fit new snap ring, from HUK (£3.50).
3. Slow windows, - re-grease runners?
4. pop-up head light wobble - Tighten securing nuts via wheel arch.
5. Window regulators- plastic clip breaks - replace with Dali fixits
6. Speaker amps break - replace capacitors
7. Condensation in the rear light clusters - remove and drill a few small holes underneath.
8. Crank pulley failure on early cars irrespective of mileage. Age related failure. This will become more common over time it seems. £466 HUK
9. A/C HEATER UNIT - New caps required on pcb.
10. N/S wheel sensor = ABS/TCS lights.
11. O2 sensor = ECL and oftren TCS lights.
12. TCS Light - CEL code 3-4 (VRef Signal) - This usually relates to the main relay located on the rear bulkhead (near the TCS ECU). Either resolder the joints on the circuit board of the relay or replace the relay itself. This tends to affect early model cars.
13. Petrol Filler Flap not opening properly - Check\replace the small black (metal) spring near the hinge. Sometimes you can bend this back to make it more 'springy', P\N: 74494-SL0-000
14. Rear brake light bulb blowing and triggering the TCS and ABS lights - Replace bulb and then no problem!
15. Boot and engine cover gas struts that loose their effectiveness - refurb or new.
16. That little fan in the centre console by the ash tray that gets noisy after a while - take apart and clean.
:)[Door seals whistle at 100mph ( happened on both my nsx's )]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan
door glass need re-aligning/adjusting... it did it on mine if i went over 75 until i set the glass to the factory specs.
Another newbie ??
Hello...
Mine whistle at 130mph but I use it as a wake up call and safety feature :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan
Guys, does anyone have a pic of this Eurosmile issue with the rear of the car, sounds like a thing to look out for as a potential buyer.....thanks
It's not really that big a deal,honest.Quote:
Originally Posted by markdas
Okay, I understand now thanks....hmm DTM tailpipes....first I have seen on an NSX...quite nice
15. Boot and engine cover gas struts that loose their effectiveness - refurb or new.
Posted gas struts to http://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-s...dard-range.php
got them back 2 days after posting, £12.50 each plus P+P plus Vat, just like new, cheap as chips.
Oil pressure gauge sender?
Good point, I think mine is on the blink!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary
Jim
It looks easy to change but I've been quoted £150+ from Honda for the part.
Does anyone know of a cheaper source? Is the same part fitted to other Honda or non-Honda cars?
Cheers
Gary
This may or may not be a common fault but it is niggling nevertheless.
I cannot get the rear window to latch closed. When I apply pressure above the latch there is an audible click but when I release my hand it pops off again. Obviously, the latch needs adjusting but in words of 2 syllables or less, how is this best done??
Thanks,
David
Take a look first at your "engine bay lid", make sure the rubber seal is seated correctly and nice and tight against the lid. [Not the seal on the glass hatch, but the seal on engine bay lid]Quote:
Originally Posted by NSX100
If it is then yes try adjusting the catch, adjusting the catch is a trial and error process, you dont have to lremove the bolts but rather loosen slightly [dont remove] and tap the catch gently up or down, be careful not to over torque the bolt when tightning again.
Other things to check is the boot release handle is seated correctly and not catching the trim and also that the cable is not stuck or jammed.
I'm working on a Nissan 300ZX at the moment and the boot was doing the same thing, turned out that one of the boot trims was catching the cable and everytime the boot was closed, it would spring up again.
Thanks Sudesh. Kneading in the rubber rim of the engine cover around the latch did the trick. It seems that when I open the engine cover, the fit between its outer edge and the window's lower edge seems almost air-tight such that I have to push in the rubber seal a tad to get the latch to lock. All part of the learning experience!!
No problem! Although shouldn't have to do that everytime you open the hatch. If you do then you may look at adjusting the engine cover, quite simple to do also.Quote:
Originally Posted by NSX100
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75746
hello friends , that made a long time that I n' but, I did not post am always, considering this topic, that made fear, my NSX has 162000km, have a good address to buy this pulley and all the kit distribution in Europe or with the United Kingdom , it is better to change this pulley before breaking the engine!
Hi, Thunder.
Not sure I understood your post but additon to the post on Prime, you can find some info from post #90 in the following link;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showth...?t=6286&page=9
and post #92 in the link below;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showth...t=6286&page=10
Parts No;
13811-PR7-A02 for MT
13811-PR7-A11 for AT
You need different pulley holder tools for MT and AT.
HEX 45mm for MT
HEX 50mm for AT
You can replace the pulley without disturbing the timing belt or the lower cover. Just needs to re-adjust the tension on both ACG and A/C belts.
Make sure to follow the latest greasing/cleaning procedure on the pulley bolt. Otherwise, you'll really struggle to remove it in the future.
Regards,
Kaz
Also, if you are struggling to get hold of the parts, you may want to try contacting Andy at Vtec Direct Ltd. You can find the link in the 'NSXCB Vendors' section of this site.
Regards,
Kaz
merci beaucoup, ma langue est le Français, le traducteur Google est tres mauvais, merci pour les renseignements!
thank you very much, my language is the French, the Google translator is very bad, thank you for the information!
can't park it inside my house.
I think your house requires adjustment.
I can't believe no-one's mentioned this one or found a satisfactory solution:
17. Slight whine from the nearside around 4,000 rpm, increasing steadily in volume until it becomes unbearable just before the red line.
One of my friends suggested a 'divorce' (whatever that is), has this worked for anyone else?
:laugh:
LOL
I wanted a divorce but couldnt afford it!
- turn signals don't cancel
- ac evap leaks
- abs cycles
- ac tensioner squeals and whistles
- bad end links on sway bars may cause clunking sound
Corrosion to electrical plug contacts (due to moisture), behind door lining and boot carpet. Treat with some silicone grease.
Anyone have problems with blocked windscreen washers? There are a couple of 1way valves in the pipes under the bonnet. These seem to get blocked easily as do the washers themselves.
Yes. I replaced an elbow-valve a couple of years ago for precisely that reason. Very simple to do though, and nice, easy access.
So, 2012 was the year I finally got my hands on my dream car! Being a honda enthusiast this was the pinnacle of ownership, but I wanted to ensure I got the most out of the ownership experience, hence the reason I joined this forum along with a few other driving networks.
We've had many a blast on the b-roads loving how she handles, but I've always craved a European tour of some sort with like-minded folk.
So in June 2013 we snapped at the chance to join a group of 20 drivers on a euro tour to remember, traveling first through France, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Italy, to Monaco and then back, throughout this tour we'd visit the senna memorial at Monza among many other memorable places, traveling with the likes of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Bugatti Veyron etc...
As you can imagine, I had the NSX thoroughly serviced, cam-belt, new discs & pads, new tyres etc etc, to ensure I had the complete piece of mind nothing could go wrong, after all, she is a bullet proof Honda NSX!
So, on Day 4 of the tour, we left Brescia swiftly joining the motorway heading towards Monza, I felt something was wrong, I squeezed the accelerator to find there was no power, no noise, silence.... I brought the car to a gradual standstill on the hard shoulder scratching my head! Once we were towed to the local Italian garage, my heart sank, I could easily translate the words NO COMPRESSION, disaster.
Finally after weeks of waiting, it was the middle of July 2013 when our NSX arrived home, I was gutted, I knew it was some sort of engine failure, but couldn't afford to put it right ASAP, so she stayed in our garage for 5 months!
In December 2013, we took her to our specialist, who advised we were so so unlucky, it was a CRANK PULLEY FAILURE, I looked on the forums to find if anyone else had the same experience, with quite a few pictures & posts of their experiences dotted around. Science of Speed (USA) along with many other experts, advise to change this component every 10 years/100,000miles whichever the sooner. My NSX had done 71,000 miles in 21 years, and had never been touched, hindsight is a wonderful thing!
The bonding part of the Pulley had decayed over time, which catapulted into the teeth of the timing belt, causing that to seize, equalling bent valves!
On a positive, we have all the necessary parts on order, and the NSX should be back on the roads by the end of May/June, I cannot wait!
More on this story to follow..............
if you would like me to post a few pics of the Euro-tour, I'd be happy to post.
Bad enough but could have been worse I suppose. Always try to take a positive from a negative!
Got me thinking - my car is 13yrs old / 18,000miles but still with original crank pulley.
The crank pulley went on my daily driver (BMW diesel) last year - nothing worse than 150miles on the back of a breakdown truck and a £350 bill from my local garage.
What's the approx. cost / delivery time for parts for the NSX? And how involved is the replacement - could I trust the local garage mentioned above (I've used them for years to do routine repairs on all of my cars) or does it have to be Honda (I use Phoenix Honda in Linwood, still NSX specialists, but they don't get in many in these days).
The Europe trip is only 5 weeks away...
Ouch, not good. Hope the rebuild goes well...are you taking the opportunity to tweak/upgrade a few things, or keeping it stock?
Crank pulley has been mentioned on here a couple of times (know Kaz is aware of the risk - he changed mine), but it's one of those things that does bear repeating - hopefully someone else will spot this tale and get it done before they have any issues.
I would get it done ASAP. The job can be done without removal of the timing belt so not too bad. You need a tool to hold the crank pulley while the very tight pulley bolt is removed - your local Honda dealership should have the tool. UK price for the pulley is £483.10 if your car is MT, but I would see if you can source one from Adnan or America which should be a lot cheaper. Wouldn't think you would get charged more than 1 hour labour (have to remove the aux belts too). Part number is 13811-PR7-A02
Failing that, there is a damper pulley protection plate you can buy from the USA for about $100 which installs between the CP & TB belt cover which will stop it chewing up the TB if the CP fails. Not sure how readily available they are now though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andystevo
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-NSX-...item20e07a3fe5
be aware auto and manual cars have different pulleys....
This is the Pulley I purchased from Science of Speed
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/e...kshaft_pulley/
This is the Pulley shield as a safety net for the 'what if's'
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/e...mper%5FShield/
Even if you're considering it, just get it done
Im obviously replacing all the bent internal parts, but I thought whilst she is open I'll do a little refresh, so here is my list...Quote:
Originally Posted by havoc
Internal Engine Components
*ScienceofSpeed Dual Valve Spring Kit
*ScienceofSpeed Titanium Valve Spring Retainer 24 pc Set
*ScienceofSpeed Dual Valve Spring Base 24 pc Set
*ScienceofSpeed 36mm SS Intake Valve Set
*ScienceofSpeed 30mm Inconel Exhaust Valve Set
*ScienceofSpeed Multi-layer Stainless Steel Head Gasket
*ScienceofSpeed Lost Motion Assembly (LMA) Kit
Intake & Exhaust
*Gruppe M V3 Exhaust (Already fitted)
*Decatted (Already completed)
*Comptech Sport Header System
*Downforce Stack Carbon Fiber Intake System
*ScienceofSpeed Over-Bore Throttle Body
Chassis Reinforcement
*Honda JDM Rear Lower NSX-R Lower Chassis Reinforcement Bar
*Honda NSX-R Front Upper Chassis Bar & Bracket Kit
*ScienceofSpeed NSX-R Chassis Bar Spacer Kit
*ScienceofSpeed Adjustable Anti-Sway Bars
*Cedar Ridge Fabrication Sway Bar End Links, front pair & rear pair with turnbuckle
*Okuyama Rear Shock Tower Brace
Suspention & Bushing
*KW V3 adjustable suspension
*Cedar Ridge Non-Compliance Front Pivot Clamps
*ScienceofSpeed Steering Rack Bushing Kit
*ScienceofSpeed Non-Compliance Toe-Links
*ScienceofSpeed Non-Compliance Rear Beam Bushings Kit
Engine Management
*Full remap once all items are installed
Misc items
*ScienceofSpeed Engine Hatch Struts (pair)
*Shorai super lightweight battery (Only 7lbs including casing)
Thanks for the links guys.
I've just bought the pulley advertised on ebay - the part number checks out ok.
I called Phoenix Honda, who quoted £620 all-in but said the pulley is on back order and unlikely to be available before end June.
The pulley shield looks like a very good idea, at a reasonable cost. This is something I will be doing as soon as I get a car to do it on. One to ask about when buying a car as well. This is exactly the sort of information that I look for as a prospective owner, I'm sorry it has come about through your unexpected opportunity for improvement on your car though swhatley82.
MC
I should be used to this by now but goodness, that is a big price difference between the US and UK for the crank pulley.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w...0/IMG_0055.jpg
Interesting enough, I posted this photo in my blog yesterday morning.
By now, most of the NSX owners are aware of the common faults and weak points of our NSX but if you are a new owner within the last few years or thinking of buying one, then probably not familiar with these well known issues.
(By the way, swhatley82, if you are thinking of writing your own NSX build thread, you may want to change the subject title to represent your NSX.)
Since this is your 'Build' thread, I won’t go into too much detail but please replace the crank pulley at the time of every TB service regardless of the annual mileage.
In Japan, it is a must item to be replaced at the time of every TB service at any NSX specialists.
The shape, design, feature are different between MT and AT model so it’s hard to tell when exactly it’s going to fail but you can do a quick check by looking at it from above as described in the following link.
Parts No. difference between the MT and AT are also included.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...2032#post72032
The story behind the crank pulley and my view on the crank pulley shield.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...4144#post74144
It's not just acting as the damper but also it's there to shift the resonance frequency for TB protection so while you can install the shield, it's best replacing it regularly and never allow it to fail.
As mentioned at the beginning, if you are a new owner or thinking of buying one, you may want to go through the items in my NSX Technical and Service Information Index and the same information Index No.2 that will cover major points of our NSX.
I ordered new one from Japan last week so at least it was in stock at that time.
For the removal/installation, it will require different locking tool between MT and AT spec.
Please make sure to treat the crank pulley bolt per the workshop manual on installation. Otherwise, it will seize and you will have big time when trying to loosen it next time.
It can be replaced at any time without touching the TB related parts so no need to open the engine.
Please replace two AUX belts (ACG & A/C) at the same time if these were not replaced at the time of last TB service or within the last several years.
I better stop now as it's getting too long for your build thread......
Kaz
Once again Kaz, your words of wisdom are welcome on any thread, maybe I should have started two, one for the problem/issue and one for the future build, but hey-ho.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
Once I get the pictures back from the garage, I will post the pictures of the damaged Crank pulley & the slightly bent valves.
Maybe we should move this thread into the 'Prospective New Owner' board?
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...-Common-Faults