I need to do it and clean all the admission well,I already have all the spare parts
My car have 120.000 kms and need a cleaning
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Is your engine showing any strange symptoms to justify doing this overhaul??
I've done nearly 240,000km and as far as I can tell, touch wood, it starts, runs and performs as well as it's always done. My motto is "if it ain't broke don't fix it" just enjoy driving it.
I think unless like Wix you needed to remove all these components in order to access, in his case the knock sensor, surely it might be wiser to just leave best alone, unless of course you've either got plenty of time on your hands and/or you just love getting stuck into sympathetically and mechanically maintaining your car as a hobby.
Having said all that your car car does look exceptionally stunning so you probably do love doing that. 😁
I agree with Pride, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I wouldn't have stripped this all down just to clean it and TBH, a lot of the original parts were in excellent condition, for a 27 year old car. The only things that probably did need replacing were the coolant hoses that weren't the best and the report back on the fuel injectors said they were uneven in their spray pattern but they have now been serviced and cleaned, so this alone should make the car feel and drive better.
On the plus side, I do now have some more spare parts.
Hi, I want to clean all the admission,I disassembled parts and I found a lot of oil and a lot of dirt, and I have time and the spare parts to do it.
Sometimes it does not start well, something is dirty, as lazy. I will going also check the injectors to check them.
I will tell you :)
Remi
Update. Injectors now cleaned & new seals fitted and re-installed.
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Fuel filter changed. More of an awkward job than it would first appear !
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Rocker cover removed and spark plugs removed.
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Do you need all those washers when replacing the filter, or did you get extra just in case?
Update of some info I should've posted on a previous post, as it may be useful for others. I had my fuel injectors serviced and cleaned at Carwood, I used the Coventry branch, as it's local to me. They send to another branch to actually do the job and only generally a few days turn around.
https://www.carwood.co.uk
Hello everyone,
following the post of the friend Wix and for not opening a new one and as I commented in this same post, in the end I decided to clean all the admission of my NSX.
My car has 25 years old, I do not know exactly how the previous owner took care of him, but he knew that inside he was very dirty, and indeed he was very dirty.
he main access had a lot of accumulated fat and dirt, and the injectors, very dirty and rusty they needed a cleaning urgently of all parts
https://i.imgur.com/QHeG6Eb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DUAX0ej.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ayd54lt.jpg
there was so much hollin, that some holes were plugged
https://i.imgur.com/3Qle6vB.jpg
I will continue later with more publications and photos, I can not continue now
What kind of airfilter has been used in the past?
Hi Goldnsx, now and in the last 30.000 kms the original Oem filter, in the previous 90,000 km I do not know...
these are more the remains of oil and residue in the admission bucket and admission butterflies
https://i.imgur.com/95MOXSw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ln8RVE1.jpg
also, very dirty one of the filters
https://i.imgur.com/KZ8J3ZG.jpg
when I started to disassemble the injectors, and first of all, just moving them, started to lose gasoline by the top of the injectors, the rubbers are damaged and in poor condition
https://i.imgur.com/ZccEOak.jpg
I am already cleaning everything, changing new joints and I have taken to clean the injectors
I will keep you informed
Ups, lucky you, the o-rings of the fuel injectors look to be the first ones. I change mine every 10 years or so. High recommended for anybody out there.
Those metal bits don’t look to good.
What is that you’ve picked up???
There's a lot more coking up in your inlet than mine. I think in this case, a wise decision to strip the parts down for a major overhaul. I'd get your injectors professionally checked out, if they're in that condition. Hopefully I'll get my cam covers back for the easter break and with a bit of luck, even get the car back up and running.
Hi Pride, there are no metal parts, it's just a lot of dirt and deposits of oil and oil clumps.
I am again assembling everything, it will be ready in a couple of days, with all the new gaskets
the injectors have cleaned them inside and also outside with ultrasound, the rust has disappeared, it seems that two of them did not work well
https://i.imgur.com/NTq5Ke2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bN9QiUN.jpg
When everything is ready and I will drive again, I will tell you if there has been improvement
Remi
Rear bank coil packs not so good, new ones ordered.
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Pipes and brackets re painted. Almost completed this years winter re-fresh, wish someone would tell the weather it's no longer winter !!
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Hi Wix,
Reminds of one of my past winter refresh projects ... I took all the front compartment brackets out, prepared them and then had them all powder coated in an aluminuim finish ... very rewarding work when its all done ... oh, and keep the faith as the weather is bound to break by June ;)
regards, Paul
Hi Paul,
Yes, that's another one of the jobs on the list, although I did buy two new radiator top mounts amongst all the parts I needed to do the engine re-fresh and I had to remove the radiator to replace the top drain tap, that had snapped off last year.
Cheers
Cam covers & Plenum cover back from having a nice new coat of crackle finish applied.
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Really pleased with the finish. Had them done here,
http://www.redditchshotblasting.co.uk/contact/
only need the new coil packs to arrive and the car is ready to have the last few things put back together and it'll be back on the road, hopefully in a week or two.
Finally got the car back on the road this week. I had an issue with a water leak, which was a pinched seal between the thermostat manifold and the V bank pipe. It was a tight fit when I first re-assembled it, now I know why.
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First drive to get the car MOT'd, this morning since top end rebuild. Car is noticeably smoother and more responsive, which is probably down to the cleaner, matched injectors and new correct spec spark plugs. Maybe the cleaning of the inlet manifold and attached parts also helps a tad.
Haven't added any updates to this thread for a while, mainly as I didn't undertake anything worthy over the winter but I think I've finally got to the bottom of an annoying electrical issue, that I've had since owning the car and a more recent electrical issue.
For three years of ownership, I've had the dash warning light come on, quite regularly, for error code 23, which is the front knock sensor. As I documented here in this thread, I replaced both knock sensors last year. Problem never went away. A few weeks ago having put the car back on the road for the summer, I started to investigate further. After a few emails to Kaz for advice etc. and doing various continuity & voltage checks at the two connector ends of the harness that connect the main ECU & knock sensor sub-harness, I found that the voltage to the front knock sensor was virtually non existent, 0.03v compared to the rear at 0.2v. The reading was the same at the ECU output. Conclusion was the ECU was faulty. Not sure where to go for repairing it, I asked a guy at work, who's the electrical specialist in one of workshops. He said he'd open it up and check the soldered joints, before I took it to a specialist ECU repairer.
He couldn't find anything significant, just some small cracks around some of the joints, so he re-soldered them anyway. He also did the same for my cooling fan control unit, as I've had the odd time where the radiator fan wasn't coming on and the temperature gauge getting a little too high for comfort. Another particularly annoying issue, as I've replaced what I thought was the cause, the coolant sensor into the engine but two years later, the problem re-occurred.
The good news is that both repairs seemed to have worked. The knock sensor warning hasn't come on in the last two journeys (it usually come on after 5 minutes of driving) and the cooling fan kicks in when it should.
The annoying thing is, I changed both knock sensors unnecessarily, keeping what I thought was the only good one and throwing the faulty one away.
I'm beginning to come to the conclusion, having had these issues and doing quite a bit of internet searching for NSX electrical issues, that the electrical units, that seem to give most issues, are mounted directly to the rear bulkhead panel and due to their ages & probable vibration issues, being closer to the engine, could be the cause of many annoying electrical problem, the main ones being, main relay, cooling fan ECU and main engine ECU issues. This is just my opinion but I shall certainly look to these areas for any future issues I might have.
It is adviseable to take the electronics boards into account when solving problems in a car of that age/usual mileage. But the NSX is built very good and quite easy to solve compared to today's cars.
I've once had a running on 5 cylinders problem in certain conditions only for about two years. Changed some of the parts you've mentioned above like engine coolant sensor, spark plugs etc. only to find out later that one of the lower injector seals got damaged during mounting the fuel rails some time back which caused a tiny air leak and messed up the air/fuel mixture in the corresponding cylinder. Problem solved, happy car, happy owner.
Welcome back from hibernation Wixer ... addressing each of the boards and the main relay are actions most of us have or will complete, or in the habit of good preventative maintenance will be completing pro-actively.
Hope you get them all sorted and continue enjoying your NSX
As I counted my chickens a little too early in my last post/update and the dash light came on literally the following day from the post, I had to do a little more investigating, into the KS sensor issue.
This time I decided to remove the pin from the ECU connector to check the wiring to the actual pin. A little fiddly to do, especially if your eyes are over half a century old but with various magnifying lenses I managed to remove the D4 pin from the plastic connector block using some jewellery screwdrivers. (The internet providing some useful info on removing pins from a Honda OBD 1 connector). I was expecting/hoping for a poor wiring joint, or even a small piece of dust but no, it was attached as it should be. There appeared to be nothing wrong with the pin at all.
So the only thing I could conclude, after examining the pin, was either the small tension tabs perhaps being a little slack on the internal side of the pin, or they are broken and should attached at both of their ends, thus causing a poor electrical connection to the pins on the ECU. So very delicately I bent the tab slightly, so it would have more tension to the ECU PIN and snapped it back into the plastic connector housing.
So this time, a week and half has passed and the warning light has not returned, so I actually do now believe I've solved the issue. Hopefully this bit of info may help others before they perhaps spend many hours and possibly money on trying to solve a re-occuring annoying electrical problem.
Pic attached with an arrow pointing to the spring tab.
Attachment 13696
So about time for an up date on my on going, gradual, rebuild of my NSX. This winter I've tackled the aircon system, it having never worked since I've owned the car and the condition of the condensers & motors when I removed them 3 years ago, god knows when it did last work. Over the last couple of weeks, I've finally got the two outboard aircon condensers back together. It's taken a while, as I've managed to source some second hand motors, one second hand condenser and one new from Amayama. I'm also replacing the dryer canister with a new one, as the small window on the top of the unit shows the internals looking a pale white-ish colour, rather than completely clear.
So with a bit of luck, I'll finally have working aircon in both my Hondas this year, as I've had to replace the condenser in the S2000. I suspect the S2000 will work straight after it gets re-filled but I think there will be further work to do on the NSX system, once it gets a re-fill.
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Thanks to Covid, I've just had a job done that I intended to do this time last year and that is having the air-con system re-gassed, now that I have a sealed system. I went to Bee Cool in Kettering this morning, as they can accommodate the old type systems & Dave the owner, is very knowledgeable on all vehicle air-con systems. I had the system gassed with RS24, as R12 basically unobtainable & illegal.
So, all well with the gassing & the system maintained the pressure, so no leaks after the partial rebuild last year.
BUT.... the compressor won't kick in. As the air-con has never worked in my ownership (5 years), the re gas was in effect, the next step in the rebuild of the air-con system. We swapped the horn & compressor relays over to check if the relay was/wasn't working but the horn worked with the compressor relay, so relay was ok.
So, my question is, where do I start next ? I don't mind replacing components but there maybe a better set of checks I can run through, to try & get to the fault that's stopping the compressor kicking in. I don't know whether the compressor actually works either, so need to get it working to see.
I'm going to do the CCU test firstly, as I suspect the issue is electrical but any other suggestions, would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Did the condenser fans operate?
Kaz
Hi Kaz,
Thanks for replying.
Yes, the compressor fans have operated on their own (the main radiator fan didn't activate) but I'm unsure why they would, if the compressor isn't working & extracting heat from the car. What sensor is activating them ? The only thing I can think of is the Cooling Fan ECU is switching them on after looking at the wiring diagram.
I've also looked through the Workshop Manual & have followed some of the diagnostic procedures, as follows.
1. Shorted the terminals across the Triple Press Switch, Compressor did not activate. (Still want to check the Volts of the BRN/BLK wire here).
2. Checked the voltage at the PNK/ORN terminal of the Comp Clutch Relay & there is 12V, (10A fuse also good).
3. Checked the voltage at the YEL/BLK terminal of the Comp Clutch Relay & there is 10V.
4. Ran the 2 procedures for the CCU diagnostic, no issues with either of them.
Still to do.
1. Check Volts at RED wire in engine bay to Compressor & it's continuity to the Comp Clutch Relay terminal.
2. Swap the Comp Clutch Relay again with the Horn relay, to double check the actual relay is good.
3. Do the checks on Page 22-60 of the manual, for the Cooling Fan ECU.
Cheers.
Did you try 12 V directly to the comp clutch?
Done this check applied 12V to the compressor & compressor clutch engages, so all would seem good with the compressor.
Still working through the other checks but already seeing some strange results. I have got 12V at the harness end of the compressor red wire intermittently. I thought it was due to the fact I had a jumper wire across the 2 terminals of the Triple Pressure Switch and when I reconnected it to the switch the 12V at the red wire went to 0V. Having repeated the test again with the jumper wire across the Press Switch, I now can't see 12V at the harness end of the compressor red wire..........
Currently checking relays & fuses again but all seems good still, so I'm beginning to suspect either the Cooling fan ECU or the PGM ECU but if one of the temperature sensors is faulty (ambient, interior), maybe they could cause one of the ECU's to switch off the 12V to the compressor......
Having spent nearly all of the day, going through a lot of the procedures in the Workshop Manual numerous times, I can get the Compressor to activate intermittently. I think the issue is with the Cooling Fan ECU as I can occasionally get the Compressor to activate by wiggling its connector. I can try the same thing again & it won't activate the Compressor. The only other thing I've found, is the Ambient Air Temp sensor is out of range of the specified Resistance levels.
Reading this post by Kaz,
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?981...n-Control-Unit
it gives me more confidence in my conclusion.
Have you ever noticed the rad fan start operating immediately after turning IGSW in P2 ON position even when the engine is cold?
Both R&L condenser fans and the eng bay fan (if you have one) could be triggered at the same time.
As your issue is intermittent and if not done yet, best re-soldering all of the joints inside the FCU (Fan Control Unit).
Quite a lot to re-solder but still DIY level.
The condenser fans and the compressor CL are controlled separately so even when the former spinning, the latter may not engage.
Inputs to the FCU:
Thermo sensor (mounted on the thermostat cover, different from the temperature sender unit for the temperature gauge or the TW sensor for the ECU)
CCU A/C request
Tripple Press Hi-Lo switch
Output from the FCU:
Rad fan Lo relay control (Low speed mode)
Rad fan Hi relay control (High speed mode, bypass the resistor block)
Eng bay fan relay control (if you have one)
R&L condenser fan relay control
ACS (A/C Switch) signal to ECU
A/C CCU:
Evaporator temperature sensor input
A/C On/Off request to FCU
ECU:
ACC (A/C Clutch) output signal controlling the A/C compressor CL relay.
This is how the A/C compressor CL is controlled.
1. At the CCU, if the Evaporator temperature is above 4degC AND manually or automatically the A/C On is requested, the CCU sends the A/C On request to the FCU.
2. If the Thermo sensor is below 130degC AND the Triple Press Hi-Lo switch is On, the FCU sends ACS request to ECU.
The all of the fans (Rad, R&L condenser, Eng bay ones) are controlled by the Thermo sensor and the A/C On/Off request from the CCU but without the Tripple Press Hi-Lo switch status.
Therefore, if the coolant is extremely hot like above 130degC OR the Tripple Press Hi-Lo switch detects abnormal refrigerant pressure (too high or too low), there is a situation where the CCU is requesting to engage the A/C compressor and while the condenser fans are spinning, the compressor CL won't engage as the FCU doesn't enable the ACS request to the ECU.
3. ECU receives the ACS request from the FCU and enables the A/C compressor CL relay through ACC signal.
At the same time, adjust the engine control based on ACS and Tripple Press MID switch status.
So, multiple controllers and sensors involved.
The outside temperature sensor at the front bumper is not used for the compressor CL control.
If disconnected, the CCU will just use 10degC as the failsafe data and carries on with the rest of the control.
You can force the CCU into the evaporator temperature control mode and send out A/C On request to FCU using the following method.
a. There is no need to start the engine. Just set IGSW into P2 ON position.
b. Press [ AUTO ] dial to power up the CCU if switched off at the last driving cycle.
c. Not required but to save the battery, set fan speed at MIN (1 click from auto mode).
d. Either press on the [ A/C ] switch on the CCU and get [ A/C ON ] on the display or turn the temperature dial all the way counter-clockwise to set it at 18degC.
This will force the CCU into evaporator temperature control mode.
If the evapo sensor is above 4degC, it will send out A/C On request signal to the FCU.
Kaz
Thanks for this Kaz, it's answering some of the questions I have with regards the way the ECU's interact with each other, to control the cooling/A-C system. This info should help me determine what the problem is.
These are my answers to your questions.
1. Yes, both condenser fans can come on when the the engine is cold. Sometimes the first morning start of the day. This doesn't occur every time though.
2. I had the FCU re-soldered 2 years ago, after the main radiator fan not switching on & the temperature gauge creeping up a little too high for comfort. This repair did/has seemed to work for the radiator fan.
I've ordered a new FCU & Ambient Temp sensor from Amayama, which will either solve the problem or at least eliminate these two components.
I'll keep this post updated as and when I do more work on the car, when the parts arrive from Japan.
Cheers.
Minor update, checked the continuity of the wire (BLU/BLK) between the FCU & PGM-ECU & it's ok, no breakages.
Also took the FCU apart to look at the circuit board. I can't see any dry joints or leakage from any of the components but I guess the only definitive check is to replace the FCU.
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One potential option is to re-flow all solder points - sometimes these cracks are thin as a hair and hard to detect visually.
You really need re-soldering all of the joints.
From your photo and what you mentioned, looks like you only re-soldered very limited number of joints in the past.
As Heineken mentioned above, you are looking for the hair line crack.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
This is one example.
As you already opened the FCU, you will know how far this photo was enlarged compared to the actual size of the soldering pad.
Arrows show some of the cracked joints.
In fact almost all of the joints in this photo are cracked.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Almost all of your photo are out of focus and not high enough resolution so hard to tell but even so, there are many suspicious joints.
This is from your 4th photo.
Circled ones very likely to be cracked, arrows are suspicious but hard to tell.
Kaz