Blog entry - Eng Refresh, etc
[ Create the link to the blog here; *** ]
After spending years on the lift, glad to be able to report that this NSX just passed the MOT this week.
Although I drained the fuel tank empty and added fresh fuel together with the new O2 sensor, just didn’t know whether I can make the CAT hot enough.
The car was SORNED and thus, only possible to drive to/from the MOT place with the proof of MOT booking in case stopped by the authority.
On the way to/from the MOT place, noticed the volt gauge only showing 14.0V when it should be around 14.5V.
It has fresh battery and I’m quite sure it was not like that when I fired up few times last week.
When the IGSW is in P2 On, the volt gauge shows just above 12V so can't be the volt gauge calibration offset.
Typical.... just when I don't have much spare time.....
Will start looking into this from tomorrow but most likely, I’ll end up overhauling the alternator.
Fortunately, have all the parts including the aftermarket rectifier except for the regulator.
Details and photo will be in the blog.
By the way, if we upgrade the Forum platform, it is very likely that all the existing blog posts would be treated as separated thread entry in one of the Forum section.
I need to think about this carefully before posting any further blog entry from now on.
Kaz
The Alternator and the Gauge Cluster
Quick update on this NSX.
So far, no drama with the gauge cluster.
Lots of cap leakage but nothing new.
As reported in previous blog, just takes much more time with European spec MPH speedo than the JDM KPH one.
One of the calibration pot can max out.
Will continue.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Now the alternator.
As expected, really rusty internal metal and lots of debris.
Nothing new and even experienced similar situation with different screws in the past.
However, with this one, just couldn’t remove this screw.
Despite using my super-duper Nepros JIS driver, it damaged the screw head.
Fortunately, it’s the one between the regulator and the brush holder so not going to prevent me from disassembling further.
Rectifier removed and looked to be fine apart from one of the diode but will check.
Considering the mileage, I will replace it with new aftermarket one as it’s not expensive.
In the process of replacing the front/rear bearing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Don’t want any significant shock to the regulator so going to use router with cutting disc to deal with the damaged screw.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Good decision to overhaul now.
Just less than 1mm to go before hitting the limit.
Though, seen many brushes on other make/models went well over the limit.
Informed the owner that I’ll aim to put everything back on the car by this weekend.
Then, finally can carry out the proper test driving session.
Must put extra fuel in the tank.
Once I’m happy with the test driving result, finally I would be able to return the car to the owner.
Hope I’ll be ready some point next week.
Kaz
A/C Pressure, L-side door Bose Speaker AMP
Seems like the bot changed its behaviour again.
Since disabling the guest access to my Blog, the server was fairly stable but recently, had to satrt rebooting twice a day, in the morning and the evening.
Hope I can start spending time on the platform upgrade some point this month.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Outside temperature was about 10 - 13degC so even if you forced the A/C compressor On continuously, the evapo sensor would detect below 3 – 4degC and cut off the compressor.
So, not ideal for checking the refrigerant pressure but at this low side pressure, the sat temperature is between -10 to -5degC and the high side at +35degC.
Didn’t measure the pipe temperature but from standard performance chart, close enough.
It was charged with 840g of refrigerant long time ago but using the aftermarket larger diameter receiver.
Already carried out the test driving session and for now, happy with how the A/C performed.
By the way, the compressor and the newly installed aftermarket compressor CL assy were really quiet on this NSX.
I really want replacing my A/C CL assy especially the pulley bearing as it’s making noise now.
As reported earlier, only managed to re-produce the noise-like issue from the L-side door speaker once over the years.
So, don’t really know whether it's from the L-door speaker or the audio head unit.
As a first step, decided to replace the L-side door speaker AMP with my well tested spare one.
I refurbished the existing one years ago for the owner.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
First, have to remove the spare one from my NSX.
Already covered about 2,750miles over full 9 months without any issues.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Now installed into the owner's speaker box.
The speaker cone looked fine and no damages.
As expected, the removed existing Bose AMP showed no issues on the testing bench so far.
As I’ll be servicing many electronics components very soon, will keep it on the bench.
If nothing happens, I’m afraid we need to re-visit the audio head unit that had fairly big services by someone in the past.
I refurbished it afterwards but I found another potential failure mode that no other person reported.
So far, only on 1 unit happened at the specific area using the specific parts.
Base Idle Air, Final words.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
The usual treatment of the water gutter to reduce the amount of water dripping over the rear bank IG coil cover.
Not perfect at all but at least, it has some effect.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Time to adjust the base idle air screw.
My trusted 090 connector for the DBW model.
Had to open the screw slightly as the engine stalled on starting up.
Once started, closing the screw slightly and settled at exactly the same position as other NSX.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
If the engine healthy, one should be able to idle even at around 600rpm.
It’s DBW MT model so once SCS terminal opened, the ECU just aims for the 800rpm.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Now the base idle air screw is sealed.
Time to reset the ECU.
Went out for the sequences of final test driving sessions but split the menu in multiple outings.
Was aiming half tank of fuel but added too much so not ideal for testing but still, prefer this suspension setting than my Type-S one.
The road surface around my area is in such poor condition.....
Engaged VTEC once after the 2nd outing.
Happy with all the results.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Despite filling only about 2/3 of the tank, the washer fluid manged to seep out through the tiny hole used for checking the fluid level.
To the owner: If you find tiny amount of blue fluid under the radiator, it’s not the coolant but the washer fluid.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Cleaned the cabin and vacuumed but then my 5.5 years old Dyson decided to cut out randomly.
No blockage or filter issue.
Either the battery protection circuit or something else.
Turned out it was both the battery and the red plastic trigger.
Poor design and not so great plastic material....
No wonder why so many experienced the same issue.
Quite surprised to find such thing from Dyson.....
Ordered replacement battery and for now, repaired the plastic trigger.
Wiped all the internal glass surface first with the soft water followed by IPA.
This will keep the glass clean and no misting up for awhile.
Just need washing the car but the owner needs extra days before collection so will wait for now.
Thank you for honouring my decision over the years and respecting my skill and the service.
Really appreciated.
Kaz
