Three technical issues with my 92

Good Morning.

My name is Bernhard and I am from Austria/Vienna. I have a red 92 NA1 with around 235tkm on the counter.

Car drives nicely now after giving it some love it deserved.

First:
It developed a little knocking noise during the last 500km. Before I bought it about 4000km ago everything was checked and the bushings and ball joints were found to be ok. The interesting thing is, I can feel the knocking in the gas pedal. Has anyone ever experienced that?
From the placement of the sway bar I assume it may be the sway bar bushings or the drop links.
Is there an aftermarket option for the bushings and links?

Second:
The water spray for the head lights does not work. When I push the button I can hear the relay in the dashboard clicking but no pump. Are they known to fail?

Third:
The right inner CV joint has a lot of play. I can feel it by hand when twisting it on the lift. Also the car has the typical clunking noise when going back and forth. I have read a lot about that but I could not find any non expensive way to replace that. It seems there is a Legend that has the same inner CV joint but did not find that either. Is it possible to swap the inner tripod rollers from left to right and replace the left one with the aftermarket driveshaft?

Cheers,
Bernhard

Hi and welcome.

There are aftermarket drop links available for front and rear. I replaced my fronts about 8 years ago thinking they may not last for long but they are still good, and about 10% of the HUK price. I believe mine were made by QH Autoparts.

Unfortunately you can only buy an aftermarket left driveshaft from Rock Auto in the USA.

Washer pumps were mentioned here in the last few months...... They are known to seize thru lack of use.... I'll see if I can find it when I get to my laptop!!!

edit... found it, might be applicable... http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...ht=washer+pump

Hi, Bernhard. Welcome to the club.

If your NSX is 92 model, it's a non-DBW model and if it's LHD model, you will have several extra 'bend' on the TH cable compared to the RHD one for routing it from left centre of the front cabin towards the right rear where the cable enters the engine bay.
Because of this and the extra spring used for the TCS linkage on non-DBW model, the TH pedal feels massively heavy with the LHD model. If you hop into the DBW model, you will notice the difference.

If your knocking noise is coming from the sway bar bush, please try applying silicone spray and see whether it will change the noise or not. However, if you can feel the knock through the TH cable, I don't think that will be the case.

I hope your TH cable adjuster is not loose near the igniter module.

If it's from the ball joint, you can inspect it by lifting the car up and grabbing the wheel up/down/ back and forth.

You could be feeling the knock through the TH pedal mounting bracket and the noise could be coming from the front.
For example, the loose spare wheel, battery bracket, etc.

If you have aftermarket front sway bar, it could hit the battery tray bracket under load or the sway link could hit the front damper body.
If you installed Type-R lower stiffener bar (don't know the official name), I noticed that it could hit the sway bar from time to time.


For the headlight washer, please apply 12V directly to the big 3pin (only 2 wires used) 250 connector.
If it triggers the motor, you have other issues.
If you look down in that area, the biggest challenge is accessing the headlight washer motor.
Unlike the windshield washer motor, for some reason, Honda wrapped the headlight one in cyl like tube with wire locking style fastener and this fastener could heavily rust resulting in big time removing it.
I can remove the windshield one without removing other parts such as the bumper or the radiator but I have no confidence in doing so with the headlight one.

If you don't use headlight washer regularly (and the same story goes for the windshield one as well) or use too thin concentration of the washer fluid, your motor(s) could corrode internally at the spindle resulting in seized motor.

Not the headlight washer motor but some of the failed examples;

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?136...ck-Brake-OH-13
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?131...asher-motor-01
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?131...asher-motor-02


Regarding the CV joint......
You seem to know that the housing design of the inner joint is different between the L & R driveshafts hence the question regarding the 'possibility' of swapping only the internal spider and the 3 x roller.

'Possible' is a good wording though...... It is 'possible' to do so if you can slide the rollers from different joint into another one but strictly speaking, not recommended.
You will notice that you may not be able to slide the rollers into a different housing due to the way the housing/roller worn. You should replace the housing, roller (and the spider) as a set.
I think you can't buy them separately from Honda any way.

They are specially hardened metal so the wear pattern is unique for each combination and thus, you need to treat them as a set although the spider may have some tolerance due to pillow ball mounting inside the roller and hence, the 'bracket ( )' in above comment although you should replace all of them as a set.

You may be 'possible' to insert the roller into different housing and it may be 'possible' to use them without any issues or you could end up with increased friction resulting in grease breaking down much earlier requiring another overhaul.
To me, you can't predict on what is going to happen and too risky gamble when you can overhaul it.

Personally, if you are doing DIY, it's not that expensive to overhaul it. It's just so much time consuming and lots and lots of greasy and smelly parts to deal with.
The new OEM boots kit is very cheap if ordered from US and you just need to take lots of time.
Some examples here;

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=37


Regarding the LEFT side drive shaft, please note that the length is different between the MT and AT models.
As far as I know, the aftermarket one from RockAuto is only for the MT model.
Example here;

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1179-Drive-shaft-02
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1183-Final-Touch-02



Kaz

Thanks for all the information.

a) Throttle cable
Its really a non-DBW car and you are totally right. The throttle pedal is pretty stiff which I actually like. I thought I'll lube the cable with some teflon oil because its maybe little dry after 22 years. When doing that I will disconnect the cable anyway at the throttle body so I can check the adjuster.
I think the knock comes from the pedal box because the pedal does not move, it just transmits the knocking.
As far as I know, the car is totally stock beside some bilstein shocks on the lower perch.

b) washer pump
I will check if I can power the pump directly but I think its seized. I need to remove the front bumper anyway to mount the front lip correctly.

c) driveshaft
I have already done inner CV joints on B Series Hondas which are technically the same, just a little smaller. We used to swap CRX rollers into the vtec CV joints because they did not have those stupid square plates that are prone to break at the edges.

Does disassembling and regreasing really remove the play? What grease do you use for that? I normally use the stuff that comes with the boot.

My car is a MT so the driveshaft would fit. Have ordered one from Rock Auto.

d) Sway bar links
Rock Auto has clearance sale on drop links and other NSX parts. Anyone who wants to buy some, you get each for around 9 Euros now. Ordered all 4. Same with the rubber bushings guiding the sway bar for only 3 Euros. Even if they are not as good quality as the OEM parts.

Cheers,
Bernhard