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Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

How to tackle the seized alignment bolt… Drive shaft 04

Rating: 7 votes, 5.00 average.

Not only on NSX but also on other Honda models, the suspension bolt passing through the bush with metal collar could seize.



This is caused by the corrosion/oxidation probably from the moisture/salt in the air.


It would be best, once a year, before visiting the alignment place, if you can remove majority of the suspension bolts/nuts and apply silicone grease on the bolt body.


But not practical for some of the owners without proper facility.


Depending on the level of the corrosion at the bolt, you may be able to free it up by the following method.


You can use this technique on other bushes.
I have done it on Front camber alignment bolt as well.


The corrosion will start from both side of the bush edges so it is important to work on it at the early stage.


If you left it too long, even the following process won’t achieve your target because the corrosion went too far inside the bush collar.


You will need the following.


  • Small drill
  • 2 – 2.5mm drill bit (good quality)
  • Silicone Sealant
  • Tools
  • Patience


The process will involve the following.


  1. Drill a few tiny holes into the bush collar between the lower A-arm folk and rear cross member.
  2. Spray penetrating oil into the tiny holes every hour or so and leave it overnight.
  3. Try to rotate the seized bolt.
  4. Clean the residue of penetrating oil, take out the bolt, apply silicone grease, clean the rubber part of the hole and fill it with silicone sealant.


For the ease of the explanation and taking photo, I’ll use the other side of the chassis where the bolt and A-arm are already removed.


Obviously, if the alignment bolt is seized, you can’t take these parts off so please presume that they are still there although not in these photos.


The available space and access are very limited.

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This is the example bush with metal collar at the rear cross beam.



Because of the folk section of the lower A-arm, you only have 5mm gap where you need to drill 2 – 2.5mm diameter hole.



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The image of drilling a hole into the metal collar.


You need to drill about 9mm depth from the bush rubber surface for this case.


Because it’s such a narrow diameter, you must use high quality drill bit with great care/control of the drill.


Otherwise, you will easily break the drill bit.



Try to drill at least one of the hole above horizontal line.


This will allow the penetrating oil to stay at the area longer.



Drill about two holes at each side of the bush.


Once done, 'Patience' is the next stage.


Spray penetrating oil into the tiny holes and wiggle the seized bolt.


Repeat this process every hour or so for few hours and then leave it overnight.



Sleep well with dreaming of the seized bolt start rotating in the morning...


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Not great photo but this is the tiny hole drilled at the bush.


Remember, there is only 5mm gap to work with…



If you managed to rotate the seized bolt, then try to take it out from the bush, replace/clean the bolt and apply silicone grease on the bolt body.


Clean the internal wall of the metal collar, clean the rubber bush area and fill the hole with silicone sealant.


So, after spending hours and leaving this bolt overnight, finally, the bolt started to rotate so the owner will be able to adjust the alignment in the future.


However, the corrosion was too severe that it went too far inside the collar where it is covered by the cross beam.


Because of this, it is very unlikely that the bolt will come out without using special tools/method that is not cost effective.


This means that I won’t be able to take out the right side drive shaft….


If this is my NSX, I will remove the lower ball joint at the knuckle but as some of you know, removing the ball joint at the A-arm/knuckle is a big No-No unless you really have to do so.

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I have the Honda tools and I have done it several times in the past because I had full back up with next day parts delivery in case of damages, but not at the moment.


Looking at the cotter pin at the castle nut, it’s not from the Honda factory so looks like someone already tried it in the past.


May be during the last clutch service, they had the same issue of not being able to take out the driveshaft and thus, removed the ball joint??



So, it may pop out without too much difficulty but too risky to even try without access to the spare parts.


I’ll need to discuss the plan with the owner…

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