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Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

Delicate Touch

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Placed the LED light under the engine cover to
use it as the guidance for adjusting the height and
position of the cover.

When this NSX arrived at my place,
the rear hatch glass was fogging up.

During the adjustment process,
found that the rubber seal/strip along the engine cover itself
was already tired and no longer bouncy.

Also the rubber molding at the front section of the
engine bay was already damaged (left side) and
looked to be tired as well.

So, tried my best to create good seal but
probably not enough to prevent the fogging up.










Final check around the underside of the chassis after
the Engine Refresh service.

No air at the top radiator section or heater core bleeder and
adjusted the coolant level.











Removed the ceiling trim as it was not fixed at
the rear centre area and just bouncing.

The design of the retainer and bracket allow
some movement so needs to be bit careful
not to confuse yourself.






The old clips/retainers were just dead and
some of them were not even positioned properly.
Looked to be re-used when they should have been replaced.

During the process, noticed some screws were missing at
several places and also one spring clip was missing at
the left A-pillar interior panel.
Didn’t have this spring clip in stock so altered the order of
remaining clips in order to minimise the chance of rattling.

The plastic bag/cover around the seat belt tensioner at
about shoulder height had cut on both sides.

Looked to be all of these damages were done when
security system sensors were installed at certain places.








Replaced all six retainers and re-installed the roof trim.



Just need to replace the driver door upper weatherstrip and
wash the car.

For 2013, I just hope I don’t need to wash the car in the rain.....


Kaz



Comments

  1. Nytram's Avatar
    Hi Kaz, The roof lining in my car seems to have the same issues, is this an easy diy job ?
    I can't tell from your photos but according to the service manual it says to remove the seats before starting on the roof lining, did you manage to replace these clips without removing the seats?
    Thanks
    Martyn
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Martyn.

    If you have never done this before, probably it’s safer to take at least one seat out of the cabin.
    Otherwise, you may scratch the seat, headrest or the steering wheel depending on from which side you are going to take the roof lining out.

    Removing the seat is easy.
    Just four bolts to be removed and no need to disconnect the seat belt anchor at the side of the seat for this task.
    Otherwise, you will need to use the thread lock on installation.
    Just take the seat out and leave it close to the car with the seat belt attached.


    For me, the Workshop manual is there to understand the structure and reference for the torque spec only.
    For many tasks, I don’t follow the Workshop manual and created own procedures.

    I don’t remove any of the seat for taking the roof lining out.

    After removing the rest of the panels, ceiling light unit, sun visor, etc and just before removing the roof lining, lower the steering wheel as far as possible using the tilt feature.

    Slide both seats forward and then recline the seat as low as possible to lower the headrest.

    Then, slide both seats backwards before the headrest hits the rear panel.

    Now you have enough space to take the roof lining out without hitting anything inside the cabin.

    As mentioned above, there will be small amount of vertical movement at the roof lining due to its bracket and clip design so please do not confuse it as an issue just because it is rattling.

    Before removing the roof lining, you must have access to the spare clips.
    If removing it, you must replace all six clips.

    Good luck.

    Kaz