Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Earlier, was aiming to carry out the test driving followed by MOT.

However, the Honda issue of seized alignment bolt inside the bush metal collar and other similar corroded bolts/nuts/parts prevented it from happening.

Also, planned to finish the MOT before re-charging the A/C refrigerant but with recent very wet weather, didn't want driving any cars without the A/C so will get it done ahead of test driving session.


Once again, relying on the acetone/ATF mixture.

On this occasion, used syringe to pour the mixture behind the A-arm flange as the actual issue was deep inside the collar.




Rear side were seized but not too bad.

Managed to loosen them at the end.

Front Left camber was big struggle but again, managed to take the bolt out.






However, the Front Right camber adjuster was different story.

After hours of repeated application each day, finally it started moving after 2 days but just tiny bit.

Thought about using the air hammer to punch out the bolt but didn't want causing any damages to the expensive suspension parts.

At the end, had to leave Front Right camber adjuster as is.

Trying to turn the adjuster would first twist the rubber bush and once exceeding certain force level,
it will make squeaking noise and let the adjuster turn just a bit.

Then, it will seized again and just repeat of the same routine every time when applying the force.





There are several white markers and punched markings around the adjuster so definitely the suspension area had some level of services many times in the past.

I already knew this when I first found out the issue with Left upper A-arm bolts - most likely when CL service was carried out by someone.

Later, from what I saw on other bolts, there were some sort of chemical in use.

That reacted with aluminium or dried out and acted as wedge making almost impossible to turn the bolt inside the metal collar.

Hence, the squeaking noise at the Front Right camber adjuster bolt.



Please study the material before using chemical or something not used by the OEM application.

There is a reason why dacro coating applied.

Not exactly the same but similar mistake like using the stainless steel at the exhaust area bolt/nut, titanium without reviewing the required strength and hardness, etc.


On many occasion, I saw aftermarket titanium alloy parts (and most likley cheap alloy) in place of OEM ones and I doubt they reviewed the design spec….


Scary….





While Front Right tierod was replaced by someone, the left side looked the original.

The locknut was bonded to the rackend and if I try turning, it will simply turn the rackend so can't adjust the toe.

Despite the use of the acetone/atf mixture, it just doesn't want moving even after few days.

Under such circumstances, the alignment place would use pipe wrench, etc to hold the heavily corroded rackend to minimise rounding the hex body.

As I don't want rounding off the body, going to leave it as is and deal with it at the alignment platform.












All the bolts and nuts involved for the Bilstein damer installation were treated by me in the past so no problem dealing with them.

Torqued under 1G and check mark applied but obviously, not much point at the Front Right.

Also, since Rear Left upper A-arm bolts were not installed properly when last time this NSX had any alignment services (don't know), no idea how the steering wheel will point to at the straight line.

Will ask the owner to visit the alignment shop with me once enough time spent on the ground to settle the suspension area.






U-shaped stiffener pre-installed to check the clearance against the aftermarket CAT.

It was already really close before starting the service anyway but since I re-aligned the header/CAT/exh box, the clearance must be checked.






And after years sitting on the lift, finally, it's on the ground!

Thank you for waiting such a long time.




Has been placing one subject at the highest priority since the start of this year so slow progress.

Even for me, few things are much more important than the car.

Almost no activities on the FB group, Messenger or WhatsApp group so if expecting my reply, bear with me.

Should be back to 100% focusing on NSX from March.



Hope I can re-charge the A/C and get the MOT done.

And as the battery tester showed just above 70% healthy for the existing battery, the owner decided to replace it.

Will be placing the order shortly.



I also really need checking my NSX as I think the rear brake pads are getting close to the limit.

And always struggle getting in and out of the car parking gate with the R-side window regulator disabled....

Need to inspect what happened but most likely, replacing the whole regulator.


Kaz