Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Quick pressure bleeding of the brake system.

Very important not to floor the brake pedal if master cyl is not new.
















As my standard procedure, set the fluid level to here and not to the max line when re-using the old pad and disc.

















Adjusting the base idle rpm after washing the TH body thoroughly.

This is DBW model so it involves the use of SCS terminal to force the ECU into base non-feedback mode.

Looking at the OBD2 data stream, the real rpm is about 50rpm lower than the dash gauge with this NSX so the photo is actually at about 600rpm instead of 650rpm.


When the TH body is clean and engine timing is correct, you can idle the engine smoothly even at this low rpm.

















At the end, the adjuster screw ended up almost exactly the same position as the factory setting so happy with the adjustment.

While keeping the engine running, remove the SCS short plug and use your finger to run the engine at about 1,000rpm for a short period and then slowly release it.

The ECU is now out of base control mode and back to feedback loop so it will force the DBW to targeted 800rpm for the MT model.


















Sealed the idle air adjust screw.




As a pre-caution, reset the ECU to go through all the emission cycle although with the short test driving session, I won't be able to set all the flags.




Went out for the final test driving session, back on the lift for final check up, re-torqued the wheel nuts but nowhere near enough mileage covered so
asked the owner to check the torque again on his return.

















As I won't be doing 30min cruising mode for this service menu, monitored the all four O2 sensor output and happy with the result.



















Thank you for using my service and hope you will enjoy the long-long driving on the way back.

Regards,
Kaz