Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Time to take compression after the Eng Refresh.

Data already sent to the owner.

As expected, all six cyl are now very close each other and happy with the outcome.

No more random LMA noise and eng sounds good.



















Silicone compound applied to the IG coil cover gasket, IG coil head, coil tube external body and just a tiny bit around the entrance of the coil tube.

















By the way, if asking someone to work around the RR brake area, please remind to check the area next to the edge of the rear bank water protection cover
(or whatever it's called) inside the eng bay.

The person may only work around the RR brake caliper and pipe area but if you touch the brake pipe inside the wheel arch,
it may change the geometry of the pipe inside the eng bay without noticing it.



















Eng is still warm so can't dress/detail it but already looking beautiful.





Time for the final test driving session.

Reset the ECU, set the CCU at 32degC so that any bubbles left in the system can be pushed back to the header tank although majority will be trapped at the heater core.

The usual short distance test driving first for general checkup and back on the lift.

As reported at the beginning, didn't like the rebound setup of the aftermarket coilover and despite the significantly dropped outside temperature,
still felt the tyre pressure was bit too high so dropped a bit.



Time for the long distance 65mph constant cruising mode session.

The de-CAT and aftermarket exh backbox makes the wind noise detection very difficult but felt there was some wind noise from around the passenger door glass.

Comparing the speedo against the GPS, the aftermarket dial plate seemed to be showing about 1 - 2mph lower figure than the GPS.

Please be careful as normally at this speed range, the manufacture set the speedo to show higher than the actual car speed.

On the way back, took the standard procedure of engaging VTEC once using the long upslope junction.

Everything went fine so cool down session and back on the lift.














Just one thing.....

Once again, although the fluid level was well below the max line, the washer managed to come out from the tiny air hole on the cap and dripped under the tank.

That's near the radiator and the washer fluid is in blue which is the same colour as the Type 2 coolant.

Please don't get confused with it if you see wet marking under the washer cap.



Once cooled down, re-torqued the wheel nuts, returned the locking key and done.

Will check the air at the heater core and adjust the coolant level after leaving the car overnight.





Just need replacing the rear sash at the R door and some cosmetic items.


The owner is going to collect the car this week.



Kaz