Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

This video shows how low the voltage is at idle rpm.
Just about 13V.

If I gently touch on the TH pedal and raise the eng speed just above 1,200rpm, it will become about 14V.

However, later, when I put the head lights On and pressed on the brake pedal, it dropped to 12V so not comfortable driving it.
Also, I couldn't even touch the body of ACG for more than 5sec but not sure of the effect of heat soaking so compared it to my NSX.
















With all sorts of aftermarket ICE, devices, etc, not sure whether it was caused by the ACG failure or too much current consumption at idle rpm exceeding the ACG/battery spec but decided to open the ACG.

And immediately, noticed distinctive colour difference at least on the two diodes.

In fact, when checked the rectifier, 3 out of 8 diode circuits were dead so no wonder why it got so hot.


















While in there, checked other components.

The regulator looked to be fine although couldn't exceed 14V at that time. Later, with proper rectifier, confirmed that the regulator was working fine even at high rpm.

The brush still had 7.6mm left. Just used up half of its life.
Going to re-use it as it's not that difficult to replace.

Commutator looked smooth enough so not going to re-condition it.

The front and rear bearings were not making any noise and although the rotational speed was way too low, there was not rough feeling when spun with my hand.
I knew from the fact when I overhauled my ACG that even without any noise, the bearing would be rattling so please have your ACG overhauled when you cover much more mileage/age.















Fortunately, I kept my old rectifier when I overhauled my ACG so decided to use it on owner's ACG.















With my rectifier inside the ACG, I can now keep my hand on the ACG body.


















Voltage reading before/after.
That's more like it.


Hope the new rectifier is in stock.....