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Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Eng Refresh + LMA, Brake OH, etc 09

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Kaz-kzukNA1
, 27-12-2016 at 01:33 PM (1741 Views)







The front beam needs really good wash.









As always, one of the A/C compressor bolt is heavily corroded. It’s the only one exposed to the external world.










Pretty much ready to take the engine out but I’ll deal with the removal of brake callipers before completely disconnecting the brake line for taking the engine out.









I’m not a fan of the way this crank pulley shield is fixed to the TB cover.
Long time ago, I installed one for another owner and already the welded section of the spacer was rusty.
This one is also rusted and I just hope I can remove the bolt without any issues…..




Christmas was a good excuse for taking short break.
Had really good time, re-charged and start again.


Kaz









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Eng Refresh Stage 1 + LMA

Comments

  1. nikey22's Avatar
    Are you a fan of applying hondabond to both sides of the oil pan gasket when replacing?
    Also, I note that there is no dried potting dripping down the compressor holder bracket and/or the compressor itself, interesting...
    I agree the cam plug and oil sender unit are quit dry.
    Do I see a hairline cut along one of the edges of the front motor mount? This mount seems to 'fracture' easier than the others.
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    I always apply liquid gasket on both sides of the oil pan gasket but the key is to create oil free mating surface.
    Not easy without setting the eng block on the stand.
    The most important factor is the oil pan fixing bolt/nut torque. In my view, 14Nm specified in the workshop manual is way too high.

    Can’t judge the state of the CRK/CYL sensor without looking at it so will decide what to do once the engine is opened. It’s a stocked parts at my place any way.

    The photo in my blog is not the original resolution so I don’t think you can see the hair line crack in the above photo.
    With the way the drivetrain is mounted on our NSX, the front and rear mounts take the majority of the back and forth movement.
    The right side eng mount will drop significantly over the time and may see big cut.
    The left side trans mount may show small cut but not too bad.
    If using aftermarket ones or filling with some potting, don’t go too hard with the shore hardness on these mount.
    Unlike other production cars, sub frame is bolted directly on the chassis frame and eng/gbox assy is just hanging on the sub frame through these 4 mounts.
    I learnt it the hard way....

    Kaz