Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Some notes from the test driving session;

AT gbox; some slip on shift up, on very rare occasion (just once in 15min) felt as if loss of drive.
First sign of ATF filter blocked by the debris from multiple CL discs at each gears with Honda AT design.

Not hot enough air through the vent even when CCU set at 31degC with a/c off.
Bled the heater core and just tiny air trapped so not the cause.
Possibly the sponge seal around the heater unit is already deteriorated allowing cold air entering the system from many places.
I noticed significant difference in hot air temperature this winter after carrying out A/C Refresh on my NSX this summer.
I replaced all of the sponge seal.

Small eng vibration at idle rpm.
Not misfire but more like hesitation.
Possibly the four mounts were not tightened in the specific sequence or the TH body really dirty.

Typical DBW TH response.
Not linear and just doesn’t want to open the TH when tapping on the pedal.

Metal rattling noise from lower section of the eng bay, possibly from the heat shield around the CAT.
Also, possibly tiny exh leakage from the rear end of the front flex joint as per my video in your album.

Steering wheel pointing slightly towards the left.
Not comfortable going in and out of the roundabout but won’t be surprised with the age of the tyre and wear.
Almost at the limit and the owner informed me in advance with plan of replacing it after my service.
Brake pedal feeling was OK but not good performance. Will be overhauled this time any way.

TW: bit lower than other same year model NSX but nothing unusual.
PO: 6kg cruising, 2kg idle rpm
VB: 14.8V cruising, haven’t compared it against the multimeter reading.








After the test driving session and 70sec after stopping the engine, checked the ATF level and it was way too high.
I’ll try pumping out some later but will check again at the end of the service.









I think the previous owner paid a lot to have the EPS controller replaced due to the EPS warning light.
The current owner brought the original EPS controller and it was of ver. -305.
The one on the car at the moment is also the same version….

I’m afraid it will trigger the warning light again because the internal relays don’t have enough current capacity.
Will replace them with the high current capacity spec.











Time to wash the car as it’s travelled all the way to here and got very dirty so not ideal when taking the engine out.

And just finished washing the car and noticed that the RR side drain channel behind the tail light assy was blocked.
Tried unblocking it using the tyrap but it didn’t work.
Unfortunately, the only way to make it work is to remove the tail light assy,
clean the drain, replace the sponge gasket and re-install everything.


More to follow later.


Kaz