Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

After the initial bleeding, quick fireup to shift the small air pocket left in the heater line.








Another bleeding followed by proper fire up.








By the way, I noticed that the voltage gauge was showing just below 14V when the actual voltage was at 14.4V.
The calibration magnet can move over the years so please keep this in mind when looking at the gauge.
On this NSX, it’s showing about 0.5V lower than the actual voltage.






After leaving overnight, treated the header tank with 303 protection and then used some know-how to
minimise the chance of cracking the tank, although the parts quality is not stable these days that
some will last many years and others will crack within or just after 1 year…. Honda warranty.......







Time to adjust the base idle rpm.
If your TH body and idle air passage are clean, you can run the engine at this low rpm no problem.
CEL will be triggered during this process as the EACV must be disconnected for the non-DBW model with
head lights and rear defogger powered up for electrical load adjustment.









Sealed the idle adj screw and reset the ECU although I'll reset again later before going out for the test driving session.







Adjusted the TH cable.
You can see how much adjustments were made.
It was that loose.







Pretty much done with the engine bay. Just need to change the fuel filter later.



Moving on to the brake overhaul.