Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

TH cable play adjusted and locked.






With healthy engine and clean TH body, you can idle the engine just above 500rpm with EACV disconnected. Can your engine do this? Probably not.

Checked the base idle rpm with and without the electrical load.
Made 90deg counter clockwise adjustment on the idle adjust screw and then sealed it with the liquid gasket.




Coolant level set at just above MAX line as I won't be doing 70mph cruising mode test session this time.




New clips for the rear upper interior panel as they were either missing or already broken.




For the first time, went out for the test driving session with this NSX.
Some feedback for the owner.

LMA is making that famous noise on and off at idle rpm. Please consider my Eng Refresh to have them replaced together with your aged WP.

PO: 1.0kg+ at idle rpm, 4.0kg at cruising, TW: one indicator below the horizontal line, VB: bit low on the display but the measured voltage was fine so just the indicator offset – 13.5-13.8V at idle, 14.0V on cruising.

The CL pedal is really light so it had its CL discs, etc replaced in the past with such low mileage.
Probably the previous owner didn’t drive much and the flywheel or mid/friction discs got surface rust and caused judder believing that it required CL service…..
Bonus for the current owner as the new CL will last for a long time.

As expected, the Brake just doesn’t slow down. In fact, on leaving the lift, it was making the tiny squeaking sound so the piston is partially seized but not enough to cause abnormal temperature difference between R & L callipers. MOT people didn’t detect it so not big enough to be notified.
Please have your calliper overhauled but with the level of corrosion, you must send them to somewhere like Bigg Red to chemically treat them first preventing future corrosion.

Steering wheel was dead straight (which is good) but very responsive yet not the same on turning into R and L corners. I know how this tyre feels when used on NSX and because of its too soft sidewall, normally, you won’t get this sharp feeling. Yours is very sharp, felt as if too much toe out on the front and not evenly matched between the FR & FL.
Also, when going in and out of the roundabout, didn’t like the feeling of the rear end. Possibly the effect of the soft tyre wall but almost like something moving. Again, it’s possible that the last alignment setting was using the very first OEM setup with aggressive toe in at the rear. Honda actually changed the OEM setup later.


As expected from the evenly matched good compression data, very nice engine feeling and gear shifting was very smooth.




Thank you for using my service and hope you had pleasant journey on the way back.

Regards,
Kaz



PS. Originally, I was hoping to work on another NSX to check the brake master cyl but the owner was not available until Thursday so going to service another one for the interior carpet upgrade.