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Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Cooling Sys, Health Check, etc 12

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On arrival to my place, the ABS fluid level was just above the MIN.




Within this short period of the service, the fluid level is now above the MAX line so there is big leakage at one solenoid or small leakage from multiple solenoids.




There were lots of unpleasant looking debris at the bottom of the ABS filter and also some debris were observed at the bottom of the reservoir well below the filter.






Cleaned them to this level.


Also, as a pre-caution, it is my standard procedure to flush the ABS feed line if I saw any contamination at the bottom of the reservoir so flushed the ABS pump first.






ABS T-wrench and flushed the system by activating the inlet and outlet valves followed by just the inlet one.
As expected, 2 out of 4 solenoids were very leaky.
For now, it seemed to have stopped but please exercise ABS regularly from about 15mph when it's safe to do so before the tyre warms up.
Otherwise, the solenoid plunger seat will get contaminated again and start leaking.




Pressure bled the main brake hyd system.
Saw tiny bubbles on all four corners.
Glad we included this service after I saw the state of the brakes.




As my standard procedure, set the fluid level to here to indicate that brake disc and pad were re-used and not new.




For the ABS, this photo was actually taken after the test driving session but I'm going to keep the level at 1/2 and not at the max considering the two leaky solenoids.











Comments

  1. ozon02's Avatar
    hi,

    I read carefully your blog and I would like you advised me what tools are necessary and it is better to order from the factory.(like for Brake-Bleeder T-Wrench or Pushrod Adjustment Gauge , for Cylinder Head/Valve Train - Holder Attachment 45mm or Tappet Adjuster/Locknut Wrench ). In the future I would like myself, for example Engine Refresh etc.
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, ozon02.
    It's not easy without knowing your location, skill level, facility, spec of your NSX, etc.


    Some of the tools are manufactured locally under the same parts no. so you are better off ordering from your local Honda/Acura dealers instead of getting them from Japan.

    Some of the tools can be found on amazon, etc at much cheaper price and offering good performance.

    If you have the knowledge and facilities, lots of people are making their own tools and quite often, they are better suited to one's purpose than the OEM ones.
    For example, I don’t follow the Workshop manual for CL service and thus, I need special tools to hold the engine in place while gbox, front cross beam, mounts, etc are off the car while keeping the chassis high in the air. Much faster and comfortable than crawling under the car.

    On the other hand, you are better off having the OEM DF SST if disassembling it.

    Some tools/method could be sided for RHD and LHD.

    For high accuracy services, I only use the torque wrench, feeler gauge, measuring tools, etc from the companies only manufacturing the measuring devices and nothing else.
    For example, for the crank and the head area high accuracy torque wrench, I only use the one from Tohnichi. They only make torque wrench and nothing else.

    Kaz