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Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

Brake OH, Health Check, etc 04

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This air cleaner element must be an old OEM spec or aftermarket one as the oiled paper colour is white on both side and not green like the latest OEM one.
Very dirty and I can’t see enough light passing through when held against the strong LED flood light so going to replace it this time.






The edge of the throttle butterfly is still clean and the butterfly surface is also not covered in oil. I think I’ll leave it without washing the TH body this time.
There is already some build-up of oil mist inside the plenum chamber behind the TH body but still not enough to remove the body to wash it.
The screws of VVIS butterfly are still all there with no irregular rattle so for now, we are safe.






Very good example of the importance of keeping the rubber seal at rear IG coil cover healthy.
Despite the car being washed and driven in the wet from time to time, the rear IG coils were in really good condition.
Just minor surface rust even after so many years.
#1cyl IG coil showed bit extra rust but far better than most of the NSX from the same year model.
All springs were checked and still enough tension.




Several years ago during the Eng Refresh, I re-used all of the spark plugs as the corona arc marking was still light brown and they only covered very low mileage.
Today, the marking got bit darker but evenly on all six plugs and since it’s still light brown, it’s not from the rust as they will show up as dark brown.
These platinum plugs are meant to be fine for about 60K miles but I saw some NSX with failed spark plugs even at 40K miles due to moisture entering the plug hole.

Although I have both OBD1 and OBD2 spec spare spark plug set in stock, no misfire at this stage so I’m going to re-use them again and possibly replace them next time depending on how much mileage the owner can cover.



Nicely burnt centre insulator with just little eng oil at the threaded body.




Compression check data showed similar tendency as several years ago.
Please just keep driving regularly.



Feedback from the test driving session;


Heavy CL pedal as per my previous post. Not slipping but not easy to feel the CL bite point.

Steering pointing towards Left quite a lot even on the straight line.

Small knocking noise when passing over the speed hump at low speed, around wheel arch or damper top.

Brake must be overhauled this time. Not smooth and already making squeaking noise despite using OEM or OEM like brake pad with plenty pad material left. First sign of piston rust.

For very low annual mileage, no point in fitting super expensive tyre but I felt these are too soft at the side wall and low grip.

Small wind noise somewhere high around the ceiling and also another one from around passenger side.

Loss of torque at very low rpm range like when you use in the residential area. Very likely to be caused by the 60mm diameter pipe used for the aftermarket header and exh back box resulting in slow flow speed. Not a problem as you won’t be in this range forever.
Exh drone around 2,500rpm or it’s probably just my ears……

PO: just below 4.0kgf/cm2 while cruising and below 0.5Kgf at idle. Typical display figure of early model NSX.

TW: when fully warmed up, the needle stayed between the horizontal line and one indicator below. Again, typical for early model NSX.

VB: 14.2 – 14.3V at cruising, 14.0V at idle rpm

Much better shift feeling than several years ago. Still bit difficult to get out of 4th and 5th gears but no issues in selecting any gears.

Even with old spec LMA, still engine sounds very smooth and no irregular tappetty noise although I don’t know what kind of eng oil is used at the moment. Replace them at next TB/WP service.



Removing the brake callipers next…..

Kaz


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