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Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Final Touch

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Although there were several corroded pipes, they were in much better condition compared to other NSX.
Most of the time, the corrosion is hidden at the bottom side or at the back so you need to use mirror for the inspection.




I hate replacing the CL Slave cyl on LEV model.
Before installing the big coolant hoses under the tank, replaced the CL hose.




New Thermostat.
Original one was not seized but best to replace it whenever you replace the coolant hoses.




All coolant hoses replaced, new header tank installed and ready for the vacuum leak check.




Nothing new….
Vacuum leak check and while waiting, cleaned the garage as it’s the end of the year.

Vacuum fill of the Type 2 blue coolant.






Initial air bleeding followed by quick 30sec fireup to push the air pocket towards the heater core.
Another bleeding and this time, proper fireup to operating temperature.
The new Fan Control Unit is operating fine and no more strange behaviour of a/c condenser fan even when the A/C was completely switched Off or the rad fan started operating even before starting the engine and it was dead cold.




Putting back rest of the parts in place.
The silicone grease is doing good job in keeping the IG coil cover gasket healthy.




The CL release fork cover.
Unfortunately, it was not installed properly in the past.
Even with the heater gun and cooling it immediately, it already took set and just wanted to get back to this shape. Not ideal but will do my best in re-installation.
Replace it at the next opportunity.




Applied high temp Urea grease at the release fork saddle as it was dry making squeaking noise, bled the fluid until the fresh clean one showed up and no more bubbles.
Probably you won't be able to understand the above photo. Tried showing the use of paper towel to highlight the clean and clear CL fluid instead of the original dark black one came out from the CL hyd line.......


Just need to adjust the coolant level after cooling down the engine overnight, reset the ECU, test driving session, back on the lift for final check, re-torque the RR wheel, cool down, wash the car and ready to return it to the owner tomorrow.

Thank you for using my service.


Happy New Year to everyone.

Kaz










Comments

  1. solidol's Avatar
    Hi Kaz, not sure about complete list of what has been done to this NSX but why did you reset ECU?

    Happy New Year to you too!
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, solidol.
    As you suspected, it really depends on the service menu and how you want to return the NSX to the owners.

    If you change anything in the intake/exhaust section, you should reset the ECU.

    Quite often, I need disconnecting the battery during the service and before going out for the final test driving session, best to reset the ECU so that it will not only speed up the re-learn process of ECU but also I can carry out the test driving session knowing that the ECU has already set the base feedback coefficient value for the EFI control.

    For OBD2 NSX especially the LEV one, I prefer returning the NSX to the owner knowing that all emission flags were reset once and then set again by resetting the ECU, carry out cruising mode feedback loop test driving session, cool down the engine overnight and then start the engine again from cold to complete the cycle.

    Also, depending on the spec of your NSX, it will trigger the CEL during the engine compression check (mainly the DBW models) or it may trigger other warning lights depending on what and how the services were carried out so it’s kind of forced to reset the ECU.

    Kaz