View RSS Feed

Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

Health Check, Brake OH, Koyo Rad, etc 09

Rate this Entry
Back to the other NSX on the lift at my place……




I already knew the CL master cyl was leaking so decided to replace the CL master/slave/hose as a set.

The owner had majority of the parts except for the master cyl, the fixing bolts, etc but then I found the NA1 Type-R CL pedal together with the damper-less joint.
There was also SoS version of CL braided hose in the box but I prefer using the OEM one as it will take more time installing it and not something the owner can check with ease unlike the brake one.

So, after informing to the owner, the Type-R CL pedal and the damper-less joint were also going to be installed.






The original joint in the back and the damper-less spec in the front.
Same story for the CL pedal. The original one at the back and the Type-R one at the front.

By keeping the same mounting position, you can see the initial pedal height would be much closer to the floor panel with the Type-R one.




Because of this, you must use specific spec for the Type-R pedal height adjustment and it is a must to use damper-less joint when installing the Type-R CL pedal.
Otherwise, you may not be able to disengage the CL fully even when you floor the CL pedal.








Because of the mismatch at the paint marker and the way the CL switch sits in the pedal frame, it's quite obvious that someone backed off it in the past.
No wonder why I felt the initial CL pedal height was so high with this NSX.




The pushrod length was also touched in the past as there was no thread left at the adjustment point.






I don’t like using the split pin at the CL pedal so instead, I use later spec locking pin even on the earlier models.
So much better considering the future service as the master cyl will leak again.

CL master cyl installed and torque checked.




Comments