Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

During the service, the battery was looked after by the battery conditioner.




No way I can ignore the damaged and tired GND cable so replaced it with the new OEM one.
As you can see, there is no need to tighten the terminal all the way to the end before getting the tight fit.
You should see some gap between the clamp behind the nut and that's enough to hold the battery post securely.




Vacuum fill of Honda Type 2 coolant.
Extra amount required for the Koyo Racing rad.




After bleeding the air from the cooling system, time to adjust the base idle rpm and check the IG timing.
After disconnecting the EACV (CEL comes on), if your TH body is very clean, you can run the engine at about 550rpm smoothly.
If not, you have other issues.

Sealed the idle adjust screw.



For the first time with this NSX, I have managed to carry out the test driving session. Due to the 'about to explode' coolant hose at the thermostat cover, I couldn't test driving it before start of the service.


Some feedback for the owner;

Tappetty eng sound. Very common with old spec LMA. At next TB service, please consider my Eng Refresh to replace them to the later spec. Removal of all four cam shafts plus all of the rocker arms/shafts required.

CL pedal still feels like partial friction so there must be lack of grease or rust at the release bearing or bearing guide. Something to be looked at once you start feeling the slip at the CL.

After cleaning the TH body, no longer stalling the engine while moving back and forth without pressing the TH pedal but still not smooth rpm and feels like lack of torque at idle rpm.
EACV to be cleaned and replace meshed filter at the same time.
IG timing was steady so very unlikely but cam timing to be checked when the eng is going to be opened next time.
The exhaust smelt very rich but this is partially caused by some of the exh gas escaping from somewhere around the front exh manifold flex joint as the mesh wires were partially rusted and broken up. Couldn’t feel the leak but I could hear it so will need to be welded or replaced in the future. May be time to look into the OEM/aftermarket header???

ABS pump triggered on leaving my place for about 5sec. Very good considering the length the car was parked without any movement.
Please try exercising the ABS regularly when it’s safe to do so while the tyre is cold to keep the system healthy. You only need to be at about 15mph for this when the tyre is cold or even at lower speed if exercising on the gravel.

The idle rpm fluctuates a few times as soon as the A/C compressor was engaged or the headlight+rear defogger activated. Another reason to clean the EACV. A/C compressor was replaced to re-man product in the past and leaking the gas/oil from the centre floor section so not sure about the friction rate or the health of the compressor itself.

The Brake system just doesn’t slow down the car quickly. Front disc fairly worn. The pedal feeling not so great but no dragging at all four corners. Brake calliper overhaul and looking into replacing the pad/disc recommended.

Lots of vibration through steering wheel while at idle rpm without moving the car.
Didn’t see massive crack at the steering rack bush so seemed to be coming from somewhere else.
At least, there was no crack at the rear and eng mounts inside the eng bay but couldn’t see the front and trans mounts.

60mph cruising; VB: 14.3V, TW: sits on top of one indicator below the horizontal line, PO: not consistent but fairly normal for early model, sometimes over 5kg, other times below that….

Didn’t see any signs of adjustments made but the wheel alignment was so so.

Lots of wind noise from around forward section of the driver side window.

Considering the outside temperature and tyre used, set the tyre pressure as 2.7kg at the rear and 2.2kg at the front.




Thank you for using my service and looking forward to meeting you and your NSX again in the future.


Regards,
Kaz