View RSS Feed

Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Eng Refresh, Health Check, etc 24

Rate this Entry
4 Comments
by
Kaz-kzukNA1
, 20-12-2014 at 01:06 PM (3215 Views)





Another place with high oil pressure that can cause oil seepage.
The oil press sender unit.
Replaced the o-ring and should be fine for many years.




As reported earlier, the IG coil harness holder was broken in the past.
Replaced it with new one and used high temperature spec tape to hold the loom in place.




Initally, we were talking about re-using the CL slave cyl and just replace the master and hose. However, looking at the state of the existing slave cyl and lack of grease at the release fork saddle, decided to replace.

In fact, I always recommend replacing CL Master/Slave/Hose as a set.

New bolts, Urea grease at the release fork saddle and the new CL slave cyl installed.
Carefully installed the dust boot and confirmed that the plunger is seating properly into the saddle.




New thermostat.

The thermostat cover was covered in all sorts of oxidised materials so cleaned it as much as possible.






After cleaning all the corrosion around the coolant hose pipes, new coolant hoses installed.
Categories
TB/WP/Valve Service , Cooling , Clutch Master/Slave Cyl

Comments

  1. nikey22's Avatar
    there are 2 O-rings for the pressure sending unit. The one that is at the end of the sender, and one that mates with the engine head itself, which one should be replaced? Thanks.
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    I used to replace both the orange (sensor - boss) and the black (eng head) o-ring but after looking at the structure, I only replace the black one these days.
    However, the thickness of the OEM black o-ring looked to be too thin for the recess/groove on the boss.
    Therefore, you may want applying additional step when replacing the black o-ring.


    Kaz
  3. nikey22's Avatar
    Is there any special bench-bleeding process that needs to be done for the clutch slave? Or would the usual pump the clutch pedal 400 times (up and down - b/c it doesn't spring back) do the trick? Thanks.
  4. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Bench bleeding the CL slave cyl??? I think you are talking about the CL master instead.

    Unlike the BR master, CL one is a single piston design so bench bleeding is not necessarily required if you can prime the piston enough on the car after the installation.
    I use pressure bleeding or hand pump method depending on the state of the CL Hyd sys.

    The design of master cyl is slightly different between the RHD and LHD spec but the concept is the same.
    You need to remember that the brake (CL) fluid has higher viscosity than the plain water.

    After installing the CL master cyl, make sure no air can enter the CL Hyd sys.
    Keep the bleeder plug at the slave cyl closed and press the CL pedal to the floor to close the feed hole.

    Fill the reservoir and tap on the feed hose or pinch & release it using your finger many times until you no longer see any bubles rising from the bottom of the reservoir.
    This will prime the feed hose and have better chance of letting the fluid entering (priming) the cyl bore when lifting the CL pedal at the next stage.

    Now lift the CL pedal to open the feed hole and do the same to the feed hose as above.
    At the same time, tap on the master cyl body many times to release the bubbles from the cyl bore to the feed hose and then back to the reservoir.

    After you no longer see any bubbles rising from the bottom of the reservoir, you should have primed the master cyl enough to carry out the normal bleeding process.

    If you use pressure bleeding, it’s much faster but not a must method for CL Hyd sys.


    Kaz