View RSS Feed

Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

Health Check, Cooling Sys, etc 06

Rate this Entry







The owner removed all three Bose speaker boxes by himself and managed to take two of the AMPs without any issues.
However, he had difficulty in removing the 3rd one because the connector was very tight due to hot melt glue making one of
the cap to press against the locking tab.


Applied hot air and the connector came off with ease.

Two out of three AMPs were using the audio spec green caps so they were the original ones for this year model NSX.
However, one of the door AMP had later spec design and it was stamped as 2001 so it was replaced by someone in the past.







Haven't tested them yet but already found one issue.
One of the original door AMP had extremely high heat spot and cracked the FET.

In fact, as soon as I opened the package, I smelt the typical burnt circuit board smell so I already knew it had some issues. I'm against on repairing the AMP with burnt circuit board as I don't know how long it can survive and also there is high chance that it shortened the life of other components by the heat.

Fortunately, the circuit board behind the cracked FET was just turned into light brown colour so for this level, I'll give it a go.

However, there is a chance that the Bose in-house IC U1 and/or U2 are already dead and as they are not sold separately, I may not be able to repair it. I may have spare used one and there is one company in Germany who used to sell new Bose AMP so it's not the end of the world.





While draining the coolant, checked the state of the TH body.
Wow, that's a lot of blowby in there...

I noticed some oil at the bottom of flex rubber joint and even touch of oil at the air feed pipe so there is a chance that the PCV valve is not seating properly.
Will apply carb cleaner while the engine is running later.

Recommend the owner to remove the TH body and wash it while we are drianing the coolant and replacing the hoses.
It's non-DBW model so bit time consuming for the removal/adjustment of the TH cable as well as the idle rpm adjustment but worth it.

Ideally, depending on the driving condition, you want to clean at least the TH butterfly once a year (without removing the TH body) and whenever doing the TB/WP service or at the time of coolant service, remove the TH body and wash it thoroughly. You may want to do the EACV and Fast Idle Valve service at the time of every TB/WP service.






Having lots of fun loosening this bolt holding the radiator bracket.
It's seized and I don't want to sear it off. After applying the torque clockwise/anti-clockwise several times, applied penetrating oil, wait for a while and repeat the whole process again and again.

After many tries, finally it came off.
In fact all four bolts at both brackets were heavily corroded.


While the radiator was out, cleaned the base area well.




Not much to report while replacing the hoses.... Just remove the old one and install new one.
I was hoping to take the right side drive shaft out of the way before replacing the two hoses at the oil cooler as it will allow extra space.
But I don't think it will come out so looks like I need to replace the hoses in the old fashioned way.



I hate these leaked smelly drive shaft grease getting on my cloth....


More to follow later.

Kaz

Comments