View RSS Feed

Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

Health Check, Cooling Sys, etc 03

Rate this Entry











Since the spline of the drive shaft outboard joint doesn't want to come out from the hub, I'm turning the wheel 90deg every few hours and keep applying the ATF/Accetone in a hope to one day, it will pop out using the hydraulic puller.
So far, I managed to push it out using this method even for the toughest one without using any sorts of air hammering tool and I do hope I don't need to use it because I need to visit other place for that.





Mean while, the owner brought aftermarket steering wheel with quick release parts.

This was not on the service menu and just a last minutes request on arrival to my place so I started looking into the parts quality first before making the installation decision.

Obviously, it will remove the SRS feature so I'll only install them under strict agreements between the owner and myself as it's a safety related matter.
Also, I don't like the idea of installing steering hub/boss without the built-in crushable mechanism like the one you can find on OEM Type-R/NSX-R boss.





The kit came with what looked to be the Works Bell short boss 290S, NRG ver.2.5 qucik release and locking device with some sort of super cheap horn button.
With my back ground, I only trust the quick release designed, tested and approved under the FIA regulations or for the aftermarket one, based on the patent and manufacturing process, the ones manufactured by the Works Bell.
NRG ones looked like copied some of the features of Works Bell products and while the finish looked to be nice, I'm not too sure about the ball bearing housing quality and no idea on what kind of endurance test modes were carried out on it. Not sure about the manufacturing process so I just hope it has enough strength but doesn't look like forged and just a machined process.







The boss looked to be OK but didn't like the depth of the opening window and the finish of the edge where you pass through the OEM SRS cable reel flex wires. It says to use 30Nm for tightening the centre locking nut so much lower than the OEM one. Probably just machined and not forged product. Obviously, there is no crushable mechanism under the huge impact.






Personally, I never use such cheap structure horn button on any cars.
Not sure of the plastic spec but already showing white scrach powder around the outer edge with paper H logo inside the cover.

I don't trust these cheap models so checked the resistance while activating the switch using the multimeter and as suspected, sometimes it showed good continuity of almost 0ohm but on many occasions, it was showing random resistance between 100 - 300 ohm.
It's relying on the spring, base soft alloy contacts and the silver conical cap to establish the short circuit but with the vibration, it was already creating fretting corrosion resulting in higher resistance. Also, the outward terminal where the base of the spring sits already sunk a bit and causing inconsistanct contact.

Polished everything with #2000 paper, applied contact cleaner followed by dielectric compound to minimise the risk of future fretting but already told the owner to replace it with higher quality one as it's another safety issue.




Horn button is double poles style with two male terminals but for some reason, the cable coming out of the quick release had one female and one male terminals so I had to replace it to make them both the female ones.

Comments