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Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

Health Check, Brake pad, etc 01

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Have been servicing another NSX for a while now so the message to the owner.


1. Battery and ABS error code #61
After the owner left his NSX at my place, I was planning to carry out the
test driving session immediately.
However, due to heavy rain and very wet road surface last week, had to
postpone it for 2 days. During this period, I didn’t connect the
battery conditioner.

When I tried to start the car after that, while the engine started fine,
the cranking speed was somewhat weaker compared to the fully charged battery.

Not sure how old this battery is but it’s the Honda battery with -000HE parts no.
that is not in use for many years.
The latest one is the -011HE for the MT model.

Addition to this, there was ABS error code #61 registered
on the system.
This error code is very popular if the car failed to start due to
weak battery and had to be jump started or struggled to start after
many cranking.

With the latest ABS on this NSX, you can’t erase the code by just
disconnecting the battery or pulling the fuse out.
It can only be erased by following the specific procedure using the
combination of brake pedal, SCS terminal and IG switch at specific timing.

Last year, when I checked this NSX, there was no error code at all so
it was triggered after that.
Erased the code for now.

Based on these facts and also the comment from the owner,
contacted my local Honda garage to check the delivery schedule of
the new battery.

They can deliver it within this week so placed the order.

The RRP went up a little and it’s now GBP75 but considering the 3 years warranty
and its long life, don’t see much point in getting the aftermarket one.


2. Cabin noise – as if driving with sparrow inside the cabin,
driver upper knee panel issue

Last year, the owner reported on the really annoying noise from around
the right forward section of the ceiling trim.
I test drove the car at that time and managed to re-create the same noise.
As the owner mentioned, it almost felt like the windshield glass itself was moving.

So, on this occasion, included the removal/installation of the ceiling trim
for further analysis.

On arrival at my place, I asked the owner but he was not sure about the
noise on the way to here as the road surface was very wet so the outside noise
was much louder than the cabin noise.

During my test driving session this time, I couldn’t re-produce the same
noise issue from the ceiling area at all.

Instead, I was encountered by the new noise from somewhere inside the cabin
but not easy to pin point the source while driving on alone.
It sounded from around the clock area but also felt like coming from
behind the seat.......


Then it sounded like from around the edge of defrost panel.....


It was like a few sparrows inside the cabin chirping every 30sec or so.


As the owner didn’t mention this, very likely to be temperature dependent.
The ceiling noise is also very likely to be the same.


I may need to test drive the car again once the mechanical side of the
services have completed before removing the ceiling because this sparrow like
chirping is much more annoying than the one from the ceiling.



Also, this panel above driver’s knee was jot held in place and rattling.
I thought there should be two pins protruding at the edge and inserted into
the openings around the steering column even on the later model.


3. CL bite point and pedal feeling, missing the pedal stopper
Just about 500miles ago, this NSX had its CL service.
Because of this, CL pedal felt really light.
In fact, that’s how it should be when the car left the factory.

It is due to the position and alignment of the CL basket spring.
The more the CL wore, the heavier the CL pedal would be.

One thing I did notice was the bite point.
Compared to other NSX, it felt really close to the floor.
It felt even closer than my NSX that has Type-R CL pedal with
damper-less joint so very unusual.



There was enough pedal free play and since the CL master cyl is
already leaking, I’ll be replacing it any way so will check the pushrod
and pedal position after checking the adjustment.



By the way, it was missing the pedal stopper behind the CL pedal.

Because of this, every time when the CL pedal was pressed, it was hitting
the kick panel making metal contact noise and leaving scratch marking.

Ordered the parts from Japan but won’t arrive in time so probably send it
through the post.
Just needs to be pushed into the hole.


4. Eng compression check - not on this occasion
Normally, I recommend taking the Eng compression once a year.
However, since the last compression check, this eng covered so little mileage
that there was not much point in doing so.
Do it next year or this year after it covered another few thousands miles.


5. Alignment
Last year, when I first drove this NSX, the steering was pointing towards
the left. So, took it for an alignment session and after that, it was fine.

However, this time, it is now pointing slightly towards to the right.



I can’t confirm the following without having access to the alignment platform
but the right rear camber adjuster bolt looked to be in different position
after some sort of service was carried out.

The area marked around the yellow arrows is too clean/shiny considering the
fact that the alignment adjustment was done well over 12 months ago.
Blue arrow shows the edge of adjuster bolt cam.
I think the adjuster cam was at yellow position before a certain service was
carried out.

At the time of CL service, both R & L driveshafts and INT shaft have to be
removed and during the process, you need to free up the lower A-arm.

Although someone marked the original position of the adjuster,
may be it was not done properly???








The angle of toe control arm bush between R&L side and the position of
anti-roll bar also looked bit strange. It can move but in just 500 miles???
May be not tightened under 1G condition???


6. Wiper blade

This NSX is using the one from Good Year.
I use the same on MX5 and so far, happy with it.

While I prefer using the OEM JDM spec one over the standard UK one,
this GY spec seems to be one of the very few that won’t scratch the
paint behind the bonnet.

Not sure how old it is but they were both really noisy when I was driving
in wet surface condition.

Even after using the washer, it was very noisy.

Also, compared to the OEM one, it was too short.
GY recommends 22’ for both the driver and passenger sides but on this NSX,
it was using like 20’ spec. I know UK spec one uses 20' one and also the booklet
of GY from old days were showing 20' but the GY website is
showing 22' model (may be US site???) as recommended model.

I went to the near by shop and found the same GY one in 21’ but not in 22’ so
didn’t buy it.

Won’t be able to get it in time if ordered over the internet so I’ll leave it to
the owner to buy new ones.






Comments

  1. NoelWatson's Avatar
    Cabin noise – as if driving with sparrow inside the cabin: I definitely think this is temperature related.