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Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Final Touch 02

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Started the flushing service on the classic ABS and as soon as I opened the
bleeder plug, I knew it’s going to take long time.

Nothing came out from the accumulator......
Not a single drip......

So the accumulator was completely empty.
Manually activated the ABS pump and immediately, I found the cause of the issue.

A certain solenoid was stuck open and leaking the fluid back to the
reservoir continuously so even the pump was trying to pressurise the system,
it couldn’t build up the pressure.




Applied 12V on each solenoids and found three out of four having problem.

After spending some time, eventually, managed to release the stuck open one
and another leaky one but the last one marked 'X' didn’t even make a 'click'
sound when applied 12V.
This means it's electronically dead but fortunately, it’s not causing massive
leakage.


I’m going to leave this solenoid for now as it can’t be fixed without replacing it
or carrying out the overhaul.

At least, I can build up the pressure now so flushed the remaining solenoids
and accumulator several times before building up the pressure with
the fresh fluid.


Due to unknown state of the one dead solenoid, it may trigger the ABS pump
from time to time when the owner starts moving the car for the first time on
the day.


Please note that dead solenoid means no ABS feature on that corner so
please pay extra attention while driving.

If doing DIY repair, it is cost effective to disassemble and replace the
dead solenoid with used one together with new o-rings on all four solenoids but
if asking someone to do it for you, it’s more cost effective in longer term to
upgrade the complete system to the latest ABS if you use your NSX regularly.

If it is occasional usage, then it’s only the owner who can make the decision
between the cost involved (not cheap) and the risk of driving with failed ABS.

Personally, if mainly driving on the street, I won’t recommend driving without
the ABS because if you hit something, it will cost more than the latest ABS upgrade.
If the ABS is working, there is a chance that you may be able to stop the car before
hitting the object.




At the base of ABS reservoir, there was slimy/milky thick film.
Looked like it was never flushed in the past.
Cleaned it as much as possible.




Had to replace the bolts at the L shaped bracket for the parking brake cable.
The cable was stuck in the bracket and without removing it, I won’t be able to
take the engine out so no other option.
There was no way I could re-use these heavily corroded ones.




R side parking brake cover was missing so new one and fixing bolts ordered.
Without this, it will cause lots of corrosion.






As reported earlier, there was no way I can comfortably re-use the banjo bolt
at the rear caliper so replaced it with a new one together with the new bleeder plug
at all four corners.






Comments

  1. avcrx's Avatar
    Hi Kaz,

    I'm planing on diy repairing the ABS system, would you please advise where to source the new o-rings on all four solenoids?

    Thanks

    Alan
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Alan.

    I think you have the 2nd gen. ABS so it has better protection against the contamination around the solenoids. In fact, it’s a twin solenoid package rather than a single individual solenoid body as seen on the 1st gen..
    Therefore, if you have issue with the o-ring on the 2nd gen. model, then it’s more likely to be the ones at the piston.

    For some reason, the o-rings for the 1st gen (and possibly even the 2nd gen as well) model were not listed on US Acura parts system.
    Hence, NSX Prime member warrenw wrote nice write up on DIY overhaul together with the aftermarket o-ring kit. You can see my contribution in the doc as well.

    For the 2nd gen., in your country, could you check whether you can order the followings from your local Honda/Acura dealer or not?
    Please note that I don't have overhaul experience on the 2nd gen LHD ABS modulator and I know there are several differences from the RHD spec such as the port direction/position. The internal system should be the same between RHD/LHD so I think these o-rings are compatible but I haven't tried them on the LHD model.

    Unfortunately, there is one o-ring that is not listed in the parts system as a standalone parts but you could get away with it and re-use it as it’s on the relief valve and not the piston nor the solenoid.


    For 2nd gen. ABS only
    57189-SL0-003 x 2: base of ABS reservoir

    57204-SP0-003 x 4: top of solenoid package
    57202-SP0-003 x 4: bottom of solenoid package, small
    57203-SP0-003 x 4: bottom of solenoid package, large

    57118-SG0-801 x 4: base of piston chamber head cover

    57129-SB0-801 x 8: around piston body, two per piston

    57341-SL0-003 x 1: at the relief valve, bottom

    ***************: another o-ring, only available together with the relief valve

    It is not that common for the 2nd gen. ABS to get contaminated so if it does, your driving condition may better suit for upgrading to the latest one body ABS solution because the same issue will come back on the classic ABS and from cost effectiveness, performance, safety and required time point of view, upgraded system is far better than the classic one.

    Kaz


    Updated 23-05-2014 at 12:27 PM by Kaz-kzukNA1 (extra info)
  3. avcrx's Avatar
    Hi Kaz,

    I think I did saw the DIY writeup from nix prime and will check if local dealer can assist on ordering those parts you listed, just wondering if the O-rings of the piston from 1st gen abs share the same size with the 2nd gen? To the worse case I may try to locate the O-rings from a specific vendor per the spec/size within the write-up...

    RE upgrading to the latest one body ABD solution, still don't have the budget and confidence to solve the ABS light issue about the hardness ...

    Thanks so much for your advise !

    Alan