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Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Eng Refresh 22

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2 Comments
by
Kaz-kzukNA1
, 23-01-2014 at 11:48 AM (5125 Views)







New oil pan.
Looks so nice compared to the existing one.






The reason why it had to be replaced.
There was huge dent on it.
For some reason, very popular on UK based NSX.
Probably, people were just lifting the engine by placing the jack under the
oil pan without any attachments.

While it could be fine for normal street driving condition, you don't want to
drive your NSX with this level of dent at the oil pan when you are expecting
high rpm with high cornering G.

You only have total of 5L of eng oil and the oil pump is pushing out
68L at 6,000rpm so you want as much eng oil as possible under the
strainer yet most of the time, the dent is right on there.






Didn’t feel comfortable re-using all of the nuts and also some of the bolts so
replaced them with the new ones.
Torqued them in three rounds at the specific order.
Remember to apply the liquid gasket at the side of oil pump and
the crank side seal plate.

 As mentioned many times, personally, the torque spec of 14Nm in the workshop manual
is wrong for this rubber material oil pan gasket.
Just set the torque wrench enough to slightly spread out the gasket when all of the
bolts and nuts were tightened in the final round.




Oil pan with new gasket installed and the front header, A/C compressor, etc
back in place.

Pretty much lower side of the engine was done.


I’m not going to put any eng oil until tomorrow in order to
cure the liquid gasket thoroughly around the oil pan.




Existing O2 sensor.
Noticeable difference between the Front one (left side) and the Rear one (right side)
so good idea to replace both of them at this stage even without any CEL.
From the number on the sensors, very likely to be the original ones from the factory.

For non-OBD2 cars, Bosch recommends replacing the O2 sensor every 60K miles
regardless of getting CEL or not unless you have the capability to analyze
the sin wave of O2 sensor output.




Finally, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel so hope to return this NSX
to the owner towards the end of next week.

Kaz
Categories
Eng Refresh Stage 1 + LMA

Comments

  1. hazman's Avatar
    Hi Kaz, All looking good. Was there much sludge at the bottom of the old pan, or do these things stay pretty clean?
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, hazman.

    With the modern eng oil technology, it does quite good job in washing the eng parts and it will try to contain the dirt within itself so once you drain the eng oil while it’s hot, the oil pan stays fairly clean as long as the eng oil was replaced regularly regardless of the annual mileage.

    Most of the so called ‘sludge’ on regularly serviced engine like on our NSX will only show up as the black blowby contaminated oil at the many oil pockets at the cyl head or the brown sticky film that you can find on many internal parts as well as at the back of the valve cover (front one for the black cover and rear one for the red one).

    Inside their web based photo album, the owners can see many extra photos that I won’t show in my blog and in there, the owner will see brown coloured parts.

    In the previous post 'Eng Refresh 21', if you look at the 5th photo showing the baffle plate and the strainer, they were dark brown before I cleaned them.
    I should have taken the before/after shots but when dealing with the oil pan, I don't want to touch my camera as my glove is covered in engine oil and road film.

    If you enlarge that photo, you may be able to see the trace of dark brown colour at the top left corner behind the edge of the baffle plate where I couldn’t put my finger.
    It's showing how brown it was.

    As always, it’s important to replace eng oil regularly even for super low annual mileage car.
    Eng is not a closed system and once the engine stops running, some of the valves stay open so moisture, etc can get inside.

    Kaz