Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Went out for the test driving session.

When I tested the ABS during the Health Check, the pump just kept running
for ages and I was worried that it might trigger the ABS/ALB warning light
after 2min.
Now that the system was flushed and all four solenoids operating properly,
the accumulator can hold enough high pressure fluid even after activating
the ABS two to three times although the front tyres were so old that
the ABS activation point was very early.

Now the brake feels so much liner against the pedal pressure compared to
the just on-off like feeling before the service.

There are lots of know-how in the shape of brake caliper piston seal and
silicone compound used and each brake manufactures have different view.

When you overhaul the caliper, the piston is actually pushed back
just a tiny bit more by the new seal when you release the brake pedal
compared to the neglected caliper and the amount that the piston is
pushed back highly depends on the know-how.

So, depending on your sensibilities, the overhaul method, chemical/parts used,
etc, next time when you press on the brake pedal, you may feel extra travel
before you can feel the brake pressure.


I had to adjust the idle rpm by closing the idle adjust screw almost full 2 turns
after disabling the EACV but now, the idle rpm is very stable and consistent.
It used to show significant drop in rpm when I engaged the A/C compressor and
it almost felt like the engine is going to stall but now it’s very steady.


After going through the standard test procedures, happy with the coolant,
ABS, brake, oil, etc level, so went out for the cruising mode test session.
I normally use 70mph but it was already dark so used 60mph instead.

About 25min of cruising with no CEL (when the car arrived, there was
CEL #2 – Rear O2 sensor - recorded in the ECU).
On the way back, activated the VTEC and brought the engine to nearly red line at
the long up hill slope to put some load into the engine and happy with the result.
Although it’s OEM manifold, very powerful engine and smooth AT gbox.



Spent awful long time installing the windshield upper molding.
Not sure the windshield was replaced in the past or being as very early model,
the gap between the glass and the black roof panel was not even between
the R and L side.
Because of this, I had to use heater gun many times to re-position the fastener
in order to achieve perfect fitting of molding.



Addition to this, someone didn’t care about installing the upper weatherstrip properly.
This caused it to take set at random places so it was time consuming task to
re-install it properly.
Now that it has been installed properly, it could cause wind noise or even
some water leakage.
Didn’t notice any water after washing the car but something for the owner to
keep eye on it.





Looks so much better now.





Started to replace both R & L fog light bulbs.

Addition to the dead bulb at the R side, both sides showed heavy rust
at the GND terminal.
The rubber cover was not installed properly and just hanging around
behind the fog light unit allowing all sorts of moisture/dust inside
the GND terminal.
Cleaned it and applied silicone grease.
Now both fog lights are working properly.


As I wanted to slowly cool down the butyl adhesive at the
windshield upper fastener, decided not to wash the car today and
leave it until tomorrow.
It’s going to be very tight schedule before the meeting with the owner but
hope to be ready in time.



Thank you for using my service and looking forward in servicing your NSX again
in the future.

Regards,
Kaz