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Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

Eng Refresh + LMA, Health Check, etc 54

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The gbox side mount bolt briefly installed and the eng/gbox already back in the bay.

Just putting all the looms, connectors, components, etc back in the place so not much to report and just quick summary.



















Now that the eng is closed, it's safe to drill out the seared off bolts.

As our NSX is getting older and possibly the UK weather, land shape, surrounded by the sea, etc are all contributing but
most of the NSX I saw so far in this country had more or less several heavy oxidation/corrosion at the bolt/nut compared to inland Japan.

Very similar to the NSX kept at coastal area of Japan.

On this NSX, so far, had to drill out 2 bolts, the most common ones at the rear brake hose bracket and the one at the w/speed sensor loom bracket.

















After drilling it out and re-threading, managed to achieve enough torque so going to apply silicone grease and reduce the torque on installation.





Haven't heard from the owner for days now so bit worried and may give him a call today as
I really need the info on whether I can apply dressing material on the engine, control device boxes, plastic covers, coolant hoses, etc
that will inevitably spray onto these black tape like material inside the bay….

Just worried that it may fade the color into dark brown or may accelerate peeling off the tape, etc….

Hope he will see this blog.








In the meantime, hand cranking the engine like 100 times….

My arm…..





Will drop the oil pan today and inspect it.

I just hope no one re-tightened the bolt and nut after the car left the factory.

The specified torque of 14Nm in the Workshop manual is way too high for the rubber gasket and personally, I think it's wrong.

If someone re-tightened it, 100% guaranteed that the oil pan top flange section would deform and would never be able to create good seal.

The only way is to replace it with new pan.

Fingers crossed…



Kaz









Comments

  1. NZNick's Avatar
    ^ what value do you torque the oil pan bolts to, if 14Nm is way too high?
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Depends on the oil pan gasket you use (two different spec, parts no.), whether you use liquid gasket or not (you must use it at the seam of oil pump housing and L side cover any way), the bolt/nut condition (you may need replacing all of them, like on this one), the way the oil pump housing and the triangle L side cover were installed on the eng block.

    Start with finger tight without compressing the gasket at all. Then, start at below 5Nm while watching at the way the gasket is being compressed. Depending on the condition of the oil pan, mating surface, oil pump housing, L side cover, etc, you may notice different compression ratio. Then, you need to adjust what torque to be used depending on each cases. I normally end up with around 7 - 8Nm but you really need to adjust it depending on each cases especially if you are using the old spec gasket.

    Kaz
    Updated 08-10-2017 at 08:42 AM by Kaz-kzukNA1 (font)