Blog Comments

  1. greenberet's Avatar
    When you touch on the steering rack refurbishment in the future, could you comment whether the service KSP Engineering offers for EPS steering racks in Japan similar to the refurbishing goldNSX offers for manual steering gearboxes here in Europe? goldNSX and a friend developed a replacement for the bushing between the steering rack and the steering gear box on the passenger side that Honda doesn't sell separately but that develops play over time (http://www.hondansx.de/phpBB/phpBB2/...hp?f=10&t=1531).
  2. Geraint's Avatar
    Thanks Kaz, agree that's very good value!
  3. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Geraint.

    Yes, the price includes the cleaning process as well.

    It will go through the Pyrolysis and then the shot blasting before polymer coating.

    I sent the calliper and bracket in the state that you can see in the 3rd photo of the previous post ‘Brake Calliper & Bracket – Polymer Coating Service 01’.

    Link to the photo here;
    http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/attachment.ph...9&d=1316818447



    You can also see the process at Bigg Red here;
    http://www.biggred.co.uk/process.php


    In theory, these callipers and brackets went through process #1 – 3 before polymer coating was applied.



    Hence, cost effective if you have super dirty and rusty callipers/brackets because they will clean them for you.

    Kaz
  4. Geraint's Avatar
    They look really smart, Kaz.

    Thanks for your efforts in setting up the service & sharing it with us

    Did you send the calipers to them in the state they came off the car, ie stripped down but without the corrosion cleaned off? So the service includes cleaning?

    Thanks
    Geraint
    Updated 24-09-2011 at 09:23 AM by Geraint
  5. Hagasan's Avatar
    Thanks for the post/spec etc Kaz....just ordered a set today which I will fit while doing my ABS upgrade.....
  6. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Good findings.

    I liked it at 1:15 when someone got frustrated...
  7. NZNick's Avatar
    There is a Nejisaurus video on YouTube !!
  8. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Ed.

    I thought your NSX had aftermarket brake system all around or is it just at the Front?


    Off-the-shelf products from any other manufactures or the part no. ZZMT-NSX from Goodridge is designed for OEM brake/chassis setup.

    Therefore, if you have an aftermarket brake system, you may already have custom made brake lines on your NSX otherwise, the length may not be long enough for your suspension travel.


    Lots of people claim that the benefit of fitting Teflon tube stainless braided hose is making the brake pedal feel more solid.
    While this is true for other cars and for certain conditions, you won’t notice it on our NSX unless your OEM brake hose is very-very old.


    The OEM one will eventually fail due to its rubber material and the crimping method.
    It will start to leak from where the metal fittings were crimped to the rubber hose.

    On some cases, the rubber hose just expanded and suddenly started to leak.
    I think our member Sudesh reported his case on this site in the past.


    Some aftermarket brake hose manufactures recommend to replace their hose at a certain interval but not sure it is the requirement or marketing purpose.

    Most of them will offer life time guarantee for the parts under normal usage so in effect, it should last for the life of your NSX unless you physically damage the brake hose.


    I don’t say this is a disadvantage but you must check the state of the aftermarket brake hose frequently.
    Unlike the OEM one, it won’t slowly seep if it was damaged.


    For the calliper overhaul parts, if you are running the OEM brake calliper at the rear, please check whether it is the earlier or later spec one.
    The piston size is different and thus, the overhaul kit part no is different.

    As they are not that heavy, it would be cost effective to get OEM parts from US.

    Kaz
  9. m666 edd's Avatar
    HEL (brake lines and hoses) also seem to be based down here in Exeter. Seems a strange location in the automotive world!

    I have some goodridge braided hoses which haven't been fitted to the car (I'll have to compare lengths etc). What's the advantages of having them fitted? At the moment I'm happy with the brake performance and feel. Also are there any disadvantages?

    I might change them over when I overhaul the calipers. While on the subject, where's the cheapest place to get piston and dust seals (for the rear brakes)? Also do you know the part no.s?

    Cheers Ed
  10. m666 edd's Avatar
    Thought I'd just let you know that the MOT was fine. I think the CO reading was about 0.2 (limit 0.3) whereas last year it was 3.0+. My car's registration date has slipped back to 31/12/92 due to some computer system change with the dvla so it gets CAT tested even though it was actually registered in January 92. I will again try and get this fixed. I guess I could put a K reg plate on the car with their mistake

    It may have passed purely due to the fact I gave the car a good hard drive before the MOT and I presume they tested the emissions within 30 mins or so after I dropped off the car. I asked how he tested it last year and he had only warmed it up by idling and I had only driven it 5 mins to the garage.

    The old O2 sensors were only about 4 years old I think when Kevin replaced the manifolds. Either way the car is running very smoothly and I was able to get rid of an extender cable which came with the manifolds as one of the new cables were longer than the old. Also they were pretty cheap from the USA and came within 48 hours of ordering.
  11. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Ed.
    If you are replacing the O2 sensor, please first read any error code (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...5855#post85855) stored on any of the controllers.

    Warm up the engine and then reset the ECU.

    Re-start the engine without touching the TH pedal or applying any electrical load such as A/C, light, etc and keep the engine at idle rpm for about 15min.

    Stop the engine, restart and go out for some driving session.

    It will take some time to re-learn the shorter and longer term fuel timer coefficient so be careful with the timing of doing this especially if you are having MOT soon but since your NSX is non-OBD2 car and under UK test procedure, probably won't be too much of issue.

    Kaz
  12. m666 edd's Avatar
    Thanks for the info. I believe in this case that the ABS system is in good working order.

    Just got the shock absorber back on the car and removed the O2 sensors ready for replacement. Was a lot easier than I thought it would be, just removed the O2 sensors after turning the engine off so the manifolds were hot. Waiting until Monday to get a M18 x 1.5mm thread chaser to clean up the threads before installing the new O2 sensors. Then in for MOT & tax during the week.
  13. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, greenberet.

    Thank you for sharing your information. Very useful.

    Please keep us posted on what you felt regarding the SF1 parts.

    Kaz.
  14. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Phillip.

    You can place the order using the Honda parts No. at any Honda garage or parts vendor.

    For the parts no., please refer to the following post.

    It includes the felt wool that I used and also the findings from another member 'greenberet'.

    http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?306...437#comment437


    Kaz
  15. 214nsx's Avatar
    Hi Kaz,

    Very interesting to read the interior noise, Please can you tell me where I can get those felt wool?

    phillip
  16. greenberet's Avatar
    Dear Kaz,

    Thank you for the information.

    1 mm thick Honda felt 06993-SA5-000 is what I’ve found as well but it’s much thicker than the super thin felt-like material attached to many OEM interior parts. If I apply the 1 mm thick felt to the original super thin felt locations, it’s sometimes difficult to reinstall the parts – for example, the center console then only fits back into the dashboard with difficulty. Many times I don’t need the cushioning properties of a 1 mm felt, I just need something to prevent squeaking when parts slide slightly relative to one another.

    Researching further, Honda part number 71985-SF1-000 is a “0.25-mm-thick, adhesive-backed tricot tape used between plastic parts to eliminate rubbing, squeaking, and rattling.” I’m going to order that and see what it’s like. Maybe that replicates the super thin felt-like material originally attached to many interior parts.

    Thank you also for the plastic repair and anti vibration glue information. The older our cars get, the more brittle the plastic parts are becoming due to the natural aging process as the plasticizers leave the material. As a result, it’s becoming ever more important to handle the brittle old plastic parts with care and to repair them properly when they do crack.

    One thing I’ve found helps a lot is using washers between plastic parts and the screws that hold them in place. If I remember correctly, washers were not always used at the factory and as our cars age, the twisting forces screws without washers impart to plastic parts is a recipe for cracks.
  17. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Ed.

    I was hoping that you were enjoying your lovely NSX under the hot British summer but looks like it is off the road at the moment.....



    Regarding your question, it depends on the spec of your ABS but if I remember correctly, your NSX was equipped with 1st generation system.

    You can distinguish the 1st and 2nd generation by the shape of the reservoir.

    Please have a look at the 1st and 2nd photos in the ‘ABS History’ at the ‘Brake’ section of my ‘NSX Technical and Service information Index’ thread that you can find at the right side bar.

    As you can see, the reservoir on the 1st generation is pretty much just a square box shape whereas the 2nd generation one has partial protrude/extension piece.


    As you seem to know the basic procedure, I’m going to simplify the process and explanation.


    First, please release the high pressure brake fluid from the accumulator using the ABS SST or other method.

    Replace the brake fluid inside the reservoir with the fresh one and then pressurise the system by manually overriding the ABS pump.

    During this process, keep eye on the fluid return port inside the reservoir.

    You should not see any tiny bubbles or fluid movement from the return port.

    Please do not confuse this with the fluid sucked into the pump from the reservoir.


    You may want to place your finger close to the return port to actually feel for the fluid movement from there.

    If you see or feel something, you have a leaky solenoid.

    Disconnect all four solenoid connecters.

    Connect BLK wire to the GND and apply +12V to the RED wire in short burst of on/off mode.

    You should see the fluid coming out of the return port ONLY during the +12V was applied.

    If you see any fluid coming out of the port even AFTER disconnecting the +12V from RED wire, you have a leaky solenoid.

    If you hear a single click when +12V was applied but no fluid coming out of the return port, your solenoid is stuck closed.

    If that was the case, try flushing the solenoid while building up the pressure by activating the ABS pump.

    Kaz
    Updated 03-08-2011 at 11:05 PM by Kaz-kzukNA1 (Too many spaces)
  18. m666 edd's Avatar
    Hi Kaz,

    I'm currently in the process of flushing my ABS / solenoids (whilst my car is missing a shock absorber!) and removing the odd bits of debris. Whilst doing this process, what are the signs of any problems?

    The 2 I've done so far seem to flow into the reservoir at a pretty quick rate and seem to switch on and off fine. Anything I should check for?

    Cheers

    Ed
  19. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, greenberet.

    I have been using the same felt wool for many years and I haven’t investigated any other parts from Honda so not sure this is the one that will meet your demand but for me, so far, it ticked all of the boxes for my project.

    06993-SA5-000

    One roll should be enough for occasional DIY projects.

    If you need to cover huge area, you should be able to find something suitable at the craft or linen shop and just use the adhesive spray from 3M.

    The super thin paper like noise reduction material attached to many interior parts were developed by some of the automotive interior parts company such as TS Tech Co., Ltd (used to be called as Tokyo Seat) so not a Honda genuine parts.



    For the anti vibration glue, I normally use the commercially available engineering products that I brought from Japan but you should be able to find similar ones from major supplier such as Loctite.

    Depending on the level of vibration and weight of the parts, I use liquid gasket as adhesive at some of the area and also silicone sealant as well.

    For the plastic, I use the product called as ‘Pla Repair’ and I think some of the members are using similar products that you can buy over the internet.


    It is basically a plastic micro powder with solvent and you just bond extra plastic to the broken parts.


    Kaz
  20. greenberet's Avatar
    Dear Kaz,

    Is that Honda felt that you used and if so, could you share the part number? The only Honda felt I've found so far is much thicker than the paper thin felt used, for example, around the center console.

    Also, you mentioned that the dashboard was not fixed with an anti-vibration type glue. Is there one type of anti-vibration glue you prefer or do you use various products based on the rigidity required?
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