Blog Comments

when reinstalling the cam holders, do you lube the bolt threads with some motor oil and then tighten to torque specs?

The key should come out fairly easily. If not, the internal wall of the TB drive pulley (sprocket, as in your post) has corrosion.
I normally re-use the key unless it’s heavily damaged.

And same for the TB drive pulley. It should slide off very easily once the key is removed.
If not, you must clean the internal wall where it sits on the crankshaft. I only had to replace it just once in the past.

I’m too scared to use any sort of drill, screw, etc at the seal especially around the crankshaft.
I normally use automatic centre punch at adjusted force as you have full control of the position on where to apply the force and the angle.

Just use thin coat of water or diluted soap to assist the installation. The key is to use the proper tool.
Be creative.

Kaz

How easy is it to remove the Woodruff key? Do you replace it or reuse?
The crank sprocket: do you need to press it out, or does it just come out easily after the key is removed.
The seal: Do you use a seal tool or do you drill in a pilot hole, attach a screw and pull it out
Finally, do you apply anything on the new seal (between seal and housing) at time of installation.
Thanks Kaz, excellent work!

Hi Kaz,
Am I right in thinking that there have been cases where the crankshaft pulley has separated between TB/WP services, even in normal use? If so, it would appear there is a problem looking for a solution. What's your recommendation? A better designed aftermarket guard?
Thanks
Peter

Thank you Kaz, I will check them out.

To help address light angle, on my LED light. I sanded the outside of the clear plastic tube. This effectively frosted the tube and distributed the light further.

Hi, NSXGB.
They are from Auraglow.

As I never used their products before, I initially bought just one 600mm LED tube for the kitchen downlight. At that time, if buying just one tube, it was cheaper to buy it through Amazon than going direct to Auraglow because of the delivery charge.
As it was just a trial, I didn't compare it against other companies so not sure whether it was the best choice or not. I just selected based on the numbers of looked like genuine feedback on amazon.

After some time, I was happy with their quality, beam angle and colour temperature that I went for the T8 1500mm one for the garage.

They are CE and RoHs certified.

It was cheaper buying direct through Auraglow than amazon this time as I had to buy lots of them.

Not sure of the latest products but at that time, LED tube still had some limit in beam angle so you may want trying it first on your existing fitting before committing to full installation. Depending on the design of your fitting, you may not get the ideal beam angle. These days, some of the products will allow you rotating the 'end cap (the 2pin terminal)' to adjust the beam angle so probably not much of problem.

The colour temperature is like super white so somewhat feels cold appearance if used inside the house to my eyes.

Please note that unless you bypass your existing ballast, some of the LED tube may not work on your existing fitting and you won’t get the full benefit of going LED. Through the projects of my uni days, fairly simple task for me but please be careful when dealing with UK voltage….
The price of T8 tube is getting reasonable these days but not sure of T10....

Kaz

Hi Kaz, Do you have any info on your LED strip lights please?

I always apply liquid gasket on both sides of the oil pan gasket but the key is to create oil free mating surface.
Not easy without setting the eng block on the stand.
The most important factor is the oil pan fixing bolt/nut torque. In my view, 14Nm specified in the workshop manual is way too high.

Can’t judge the state of the CRK/CYL sensor without looking at it so will decide what to do once the engine is opened. It’s a stocked parts at my place any way.

The photo in my blog is not the original resolution so I don’t think you can see the hair line crack in the above photo.
With the way the drivetrain is mounted on our NSX, the front and rear mounts take the majority of the back and forth movement.
The right side eng mount will drop significantly over the time and may see big cut.
The left side trans mount may show small cut but not too bad.
If using aftermarket ones or filling with some potting, don’t go too hard with the shore hardness on these mount.
Unlike other production cars, sub frame is bolted directly on the chassis frame and eng/gbox assy is just hanging on the sub frame through these 4 mounts.
I learnt it the hard way....

Kaz

Thank you for the kind message, Ianhb and Happy New Year to you too.

Will get back to you regarding the deal from Bose USA later.

Regards,
Kaz

Originally Posted by Silver Surfer

Can't see the picture or image on my PC or on my iphone Kaz.

Happy New Year to you too.

SS

Thank you for pointing it out, Silver Surfer.
The link to the photo should be repaired by now.....

Kaz

Happy New Year to you Kaz, and everyone on the forum!!!!

Can't see the picture or image on my PC or on my iphone Kaz.

Happy New Year to you too.

SS

Dear Kaz,
Here's wishing you kindest regards and best wishes for a very happy New Year.
Thank you so much for all your great work and sage advice for all the members of the club, and your fantastic service on our cars.
Absolutely amazing
Ianhb

Are you a fan of applying hondabond to both sides of the oil pan gasket when replacing?
Also, I note that there is no dried potting dripping down the compressor holder bracket and/or the compressor itself, interesting...
I agree the cam plug and oil sender unit are quit dry.
Do I see a hairline cut along one of the edges of the front motor mount? This mount seems to 'fracture' easier than the others.

Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1

Not much point in using the NSX-R master cyl because that will force you to replace the vacuum booster as well.
The mounting shape is different and you won’t get NSX-R setup any way.
It’s a complete package including the chassis setup, tyre, etc so for standard model, just use the standard setup.
For the procedure and chemical I use, these are for the owners taking my services so I would like to keep that way .

Kaz

Hi Kaz,

Thanks for your reply. I now undersatand about the brake master different, thanks.

I will just sand it and spray paint to prevent it from rust. Thanks!

Best Regards
Keno

Thank you Kaz for all that you do for the community!

I love the modern day Monet impressionist pastel colour work Kaz.👍🎨

And a merry Christmas to you and everyone on the nsxcb forum.

Not much point in using the NSX-R master cyl because that will force you to replace the vacuum booster as well.
The mounting shape is different and you won’t get NSX-R setup any way.
It’s a complete package including the chassis setup, tyre, etc so for standard model, just use the standard setup.
For the procedure and chemical I use, these are for the owners taking my services so I would like to keep that way .

Kaz

Depends on the version of the circuit board(s) but I won't replace every single one because that's not necessary and not cost effective.
You may need replacing other components depending on the damages caused.
If the cost gets too high, you are better off investing the money into known good used unit and have it refurbished or go for the aftermarket ICE route.

Kaz