Blog Comments

  1. exiges1's Avatar
    So Kaz, did Paul see you at Goodwood?
  2. ozon02's Avatar
    Your comments are missing - I miss them
  3. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Aijaz.

    Not enough info but are you just topping up the system?
    But then it doesn't make sense why you asked about the ac flushing kit last summer as per 1st comment.
    May be you serviced your ac system last year but already lost some refrigerant and in need of top up within a year???

    By the way, these DIY kit is only good for a quick top up on a system that lost tiny amount of refrigerant over many years.
    There is no guarantee that you won't let atmosphere into the system by using it so you really want to minimise the use of it.

    You can tell whether the compressor is engaged or not by looking at the CL.
    The outermost metal disc will be spinning if the compressor has engaged while the engine is running.
    Our NSX uses classic swashplate fixed displacement type compressor, unlike the modern electrically controlled variable one so easy to tell the On/Off status.

    Not enough info and I presume your DIY kit was connected to the suction side (Lo pressure port) of the compressor so all I can say is that if your gauge showed zero (and probably it doesn't have negative reading so you won't be able to tell whether it went negative pressure or not), that means there was no refrigerant in the form of gas left at the suction side of the compressor when it was engaged.

    This could happen if you have severe blockage at the upper stream (if your gauge can read negative pressure, probably it would have shown it) or you have so little refrigerant with some upper stream blockage that all of the gas form was sucked back to the compressor after leaving the evaporator (very unlikely).

    So, you need to tell what made you think about topping up and what has been done so far including the reason why you asked about the flushing kit last summer.
    Ideally, you want to use the proper manifold gauge to start with but if you don't know how to use it, probably best leaving it to the AC specialist as ac failure would result in huge cost for both the parts and the labour.
    AC system is one area that you must act at the first sign of the failure.

    Kaz

  4. unclebob's Avatar
    hi kaz

    hope u r well?

    got round to topping up my ac today, the guage initially showed the pressure to be slightly below 25psi so as per instructions i started to fill the refrigerant all was going well wen suddenly the guage needle dropped to zero from where it has refused to move. i can find no evidence of a leak anywhere condensors seem to be in good order, fans come on when ac is switched on, not sure how to tell if the compressor is engaging? when the engine is switched off the guage needle moves to around 50psi, but if i start the engine it drops back to zero?

    im using the halfords self top up kit and guage made by stmp

    any ideas or suggestions kaz?

    aijaz
  5. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar







    Quick follow up of this topic. Just received the replacement 97+ resistor box from Japan.

    So, the terminal should be straight and not bent then.
    Even the one on my NSX was slightly curved.

    Of course, the cables are flexible and nothing like the one that failed.

    Hope I can install it for the owner in the near future.



    Kaz

  6. flyingsniffer's Avatar
    Kaz, I was a guest of Toyota Gazoo Racing a the Rally of Italy in Sardinia over the weekend: their pit work is something to behold. Between major stages they have 20 minute slots to undertake some fairly major mechanical changes on the cars, and only 6 guys are allowed to physically touch the cars. While we watched they changed all 4 springs, 3 brake discs (plus one whole driveshaft and brake assembly), front nose cone, repaired some side impact damage (including fitting a new sill), plus something underneath the car. The most impressive tool I saw used was a sledgehammer! You couldn't describe it as a well-oiled process but impressive to watch. You would have loved it!
  7. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Peter.

    Yes, it's turning into a big challenge due to new issues showing up every time after I started servicing the NSX that I have never serviced before but I like new challenge and still enjoy it.
    That is the most important thing.
    Just feel bad for the owners waiting in the queue for such long time but their NSX could cause another delay to other owners so I just keep pushing….

    Regarding the battery holder/setting plate….
    The above photo is for the GND terminal and for majority of the production cars, the chassis is at the GND level so having no gap is not a problem.
    On the +Ve side, the holder plate has specific cut-out to prevent the battery terminal/clamp from shorting to the GND.
    Therefore, if the plate created the short circuit, the car has either bigger problem or the plate was not installed properly.

    Quite often, I see the plate installed in the wrong orientation with the cut-out placed at the vertical wall of the battery body resulting in the kind of worry as in your post.



    Kaz
  8. PeterW's Avatar
    Hi Kaz,
    This looks to have been a particularly challenging engine refresh, but you've worked your usual magic on it.
    I noticed that the battery setting plate on this car has lost all of its black plastic coating due to corrosion. The plate sits very close to the battery terminals and clamps. If the plate came into contact with the +ve terminal, I suppose there would be fireworks. Is this something to be concerned about?
    Peter
  9. ozon02's Avatar
    Hi,
    Thank you for the exhaustive response (I did as you suggested - I bought a CV Joint Replace Kit in the USA)
  10. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar




    Hi, ozon02.

    Nothing special there. Tried uploading the pdf file but seems like there is no option for uploading a file in the comment section so just converted them into jpeg.
    Please follow the above procedure.
    You can buy just single boot band from Honda if you are doing simple repair service or if you do this regularly, you can find aftermarket set with long-long band as a custom kit.
    Or, if you need the boot, c-ring, grease, band, spindle nut, etc, then you can get the boot service kit from Honda as well. Getting the boot service kit from US is the cheapest.
    Boot band tool is very cheap that you can find it from many places online.

    Kaz
  11. ozon02's Avatar
    Hi,
    I want to ask you to perform two loops from a metal clamp (picture 7) or 1.I had a leak in this place.
  12. Hagasan's Avatar
    Hi Kaz,

    thanks for your reply. Yes I realised the forum software was being polite with the company name

    I wasn't sure if there might have been any specific differences between Matsu****a and Panasonic versions so just wanted to check.. My EPS unit has been replaced in the past before I bought the car. Mine's is a 96 car and it has been replaced with a -305 version. When I bought my car back in 2008 there was an EPS issue but it was only an old battery causing the problem. It has been fine ever since I had a new battery.

    Last month when I MOT'd the car, on the way back home the EPS light came on. I haven't read the code, I just reset the fuse. I haven't been back out driving again since but if it comes on again i'll check the code. I was just looking ahead as to if it might end up being an issue with the power relay whether the high capacity one was crucial as Matsu****a. I saw the Panasonic ones on the RS website so good to know they will suffice should I need a relay upgrade.

    Thanks again for your advice.

    Gary
    Updated 06-05-2017 at 02:31 PM by Hagasan
  13. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Gary.
    (The Forum software doesn't like latter part of the company name Matsu-s-h-i-t-a so it automatically changes it to 'Matsu****a'.)


    That's very old info. The blog was posted in 2012.
    You should be able to get one through RS, etc these days.

    Regarding the Matsu****a, Panasonic thingy….
    It will take several pages explaining the changes in brand name as well as the company name so please visit Panasonic website…..
    Basically, Panasonic was just a brand name outside of Japan and not a company name long time ago.
    In Japan, it was known as completely different brand and company name (may sound strange but it was branded as 'National' with company name as Matsu****a) until they decided to change everything and went for one global brand and company name as Panasonic.

    The electronics components was manufactured by the company within the Matsu****a group and you can find the logo as ‘M’ surrounded by square like frame or ‘NAiS’ on the parts even after the company name was changed to Panasonic.

    So, you can use the one sold under the name Panasonic but the relay configuration has several standards so if it's the same, you can use other high current capacity one from Omron, Tyco, etc.

    Kaz
  14. Hagasan's Avatar
    Hi Kaz,

    does it make any difference whether Matsu****a or Panasonic for these high capacity relays? The reason I ask is that appears to be easy enough to buy the Panasonic version in the UK but less so Matsu****a (as you mentioned only stocked in the US). As Matsu****a is the old Panasonic name are they not the same part, just newer production when as branded Panasonic?

    Many Thanks,

    Gary
  15. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, unclebob.

    I use several different chemicals.
    For the external side, I normally use very hot water with the chemical powder from Japan. It's widely used by engine shop as it can even remove the baked carbon on the piston.
    In UK, I think you can find similar product but not as efficient as the one I use.
    The UK one I tried was again hot water based but forgot the name….. It's green colour fluid.
    If I can find the container, I'll post it here.

    The key is to use the combination of hot water and compressed air sprayer during the rinsing process.
    It will blast away majority of the sticky debris.
    This is the reason why I spend so much time just for cleaning the outside of the engine before opening the valve covers.
    You don't want anything dropping inside the engine after removing the valve covers and very important to get rid of the loose bits.

    By the way, please do not apply high pressure on the electrical connector. They are WPC (Water Proof Connector) but the spec is not complete WP, more like splash proof.
    In Japan, lots of garages use steam cleaning at really high pressure but it could allow moisture entering the connector terminals resulting in many issues until it dries out so not recommended without protecting these connectors.

    For small area, you can use many other methods.
    Using the microfiber cloth with your finger is very effective.

    For stubborn dirt, small amount of white gas on microfiber cloth is effective but please make sure to check the material first.
    The ordinary pump fuel can be used but I don’t like the smell and almost all of them have other chemicals with their details not listed on the MSDS so not recommended.
    I use the Alkylate, like Aspen 4.

    Brake cleaner is sort of OK but it dries out too fast so not effective on sticky stuff.


    The most important thing is the patience.


    Kaz

  16. unclebob's Avatar
    what do u recommend to degrease the external casing the engine?
  17. Pride's Avatar
    This interesting but frightening cost of engine service makes one realise why you should drive your Nsx regularly.
  18. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    It’s Mahle KL746.
    Not sure in which country it is manufactured but will rely on German quality control.

    It's sold much cheaper in US or Rockauto but by the time it arrives in UK, it will cost more than buying in UK.
    Instead of getting from unknown seller on ebay, you can get it directly from Opie Oils website.
    They also have their own ebay shop but cheaper buying direct.

    They used to be NSXCB vendor.
    You can get 10% off by entering the car club code including 'NSXCB' and lots of other clubs. I can also use the one from MX5 owners club.

    I only bought one so had to pay for the delivery but still, the overall total including the discount and delivery came out just under GBP30.

    Comes with copper sealing washer set.

    Haven't installed yet but very likely to be forced to do so in the near future so I may take fuel pressure after the installation.


    Kaz
  19. Pride's Avatar
    Hi Kaz, I too have been waiting an age for a new fuel filter from Honda.

    Do you mind telling me what the part/model number is for the Mahle filter so I can order with confidence from eBay that it's the right one.

    92 NA1

    Thanks.
    Updated 14-03-2017 at 04:53 PM by Pride
  20. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Because Koyo Racing Rad is cheaper than OEM one and yet better construction.

    OEM one is recycled aluminum with two plastic tanks crimped at the top and bottom.
    Two different materials with continuous thermal shock.
    Eventually, the crimp will get weaker and start opening up resulting in leakage.

    Sometimes, the hose connection neck at the bottom side of the rad will crack as that's the entrance of the hot coolant on our NSX.
    On other production cars, it will normally enter from the top.

    Koyo Racing rad is widely used in Japan including the race teams.
    All aluminum so unless the welding gets weak, it won't crack.

    Your radiator may survived 21+ years but that doesn't mean the cooling efficiency is the same as the new one.
    Probably by now, reduced down to 50 - 75%.
    Not sure where you live but probably fine for street driving condition.

    Over the last 23years, I can't even remember how many times I replaced the radiator on mine for preventative measure as well as for R&D purpose.

    Kaz


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