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duncan
19-03-2011, 07:32 PM
100k miles and a 1995 car: A/C and CCU working OK, as a result of posts by Kaz I decided to check mine out. Early stages of distress to a couple of the capacitors and discolouration to the leads on about half of them.
Replacement capacitors sourced, originals removed and all replaced; CCU board now not fully operative....Bugger!
Board sent to Briank, contact via Prime. Posted, repaired and returned in a fortnight, $145 including return postage, I'm a happy bunny.
I'd suggest a routine inspection of your own CCU boards even if they appear to be working then, don't even think of doing the repair yourself but a very willing recommendation from me for Braink and his repair service.

NSXGB
19-03-2011, 07:52 PM
Does Kaz offer this service too?

EDIT: DOH! I knew he did but read the post as ECU...time for glasses!
BTW, Is there anything in the ECU component wise that can go bad in time?

Sudesh
19-03-2011, 07:54 PM
Does Kaz offer this service too?

Yip and top job he does too and being a forum member and UK based, I would be sending them to him, plus postage and turn around would be cheaper and quicker.

Nick Graves
19-03-2011, 07:59 PM
Timely post! Noticed today my temperature display is fading a bit on the top of the 1.

I presume that's the sign, then?

Sudesh
19-03-2011, 08:05 PM
Timely post! Noticed today my temperature display is fading a bit on the top of the 1.

I presume that's the sign, then?

There are many different signs of CCU failing, however yours may be as simple as a bulb on its way out!

Nick Graves
19-03-2011, 08:32 PM
Ah - I presumed the display was LED & not LCD!

Thanks Sudesh; I'll investigate that one.

Sudesh
19-03-2011, 08:59 PM
Ah - I presumed the display was LED & not LCD!

Thanks Sudesh; I'll investigate that one.

To be honest nick I cant remember? There are from memory a few small bulbs in there that are can be changed out ok, they possibly control the color and the rest is LED

Nick Graves
19-03-2011, 09:06 PM
Thinking about it, it does dim with the lights on so it'll be backlit something-or-other. The Service Manual doesn't really help.

duncan
19-03-2011, 09:35 PM
When you split the case from the facia part of the CCU a couple of bulbs screwed into the back of the facia pcb are visible, I didn't remove mine as I had no need, they however looked the same as the 1/4 turn bulb/bulb holder used to provide internal illumination in the switches. If so the bulbs are available from Maplins.

Chris B N
20-03-2011, 01:25 PM
My CCU was working OK ( 96 T F Matic0 , but decided that while Kaz was doing a health check the CCU should be looked at as well. The board was in a sorry state having had a poor quality repair done by a previous owner as well as having leaking capacitors. When you consider the cost of a new unit, the cost of a service maintenance is well worth the cost. Left the board with Kaz and got it back a week later. Yet another Kaz success.

nobby
20-03-2011, 01:40 PM
kaz is the MAN when getting work done on the CCU board. mine was in a right sorry state and he has it fixed to perfection.

Nick Graves
20-03-2011, 01:41 PM
When you split the case from the facia part of the CCU a couple of bulbs screwed into the back of the facia pcb are visible, I didn't remove mine as I had no need, they however looked the same as the 1/4 turn bulb/bulb holder used to provide internal illumination in the switches. If so the bulbs are available from Maplins.

Thanks for that - the Service Manual seems to treat the whole CCU as if it contains dragons.

I had to replace the blubs on the 'Lude HVAC last year (usual Honda orange ones) and the NSX's ignition switch one has gone. So it's a possibility.

Sudesh
20-03-2011, 02:00 PM
Thanks for that - the Service Manual seems to treat the whole CCU as if it contains dragons.

I had to replace the blubs on the 'Lude HVAC last year (usual Honda orange ones) and the NSX's ignition switch one has gone. So it's a possibility.

Ignition switch bulb is easy one to change, I can do it without removing the leather knee pad, just remove the lower kick panel, but I have small hands and I'm not the tallest guy in world either lol

The bulb is S14V 1.4W, just pulls out of the socket, it has the orange cap on it which can be re-used if your remove it carefully.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSXPARTS/SAM_3778.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSXPARTS/SAM_3779.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSXPARTS/SAM_3780.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/icongroup/NSXPARTS/SAM_3781.jpg

Kaz-kzukNA1
20-03-2011, 02:53 PM
At the CCU display module, there are several devices being used to ‘lighten’ and ‘display’ the text and the status.


Green/yellow LED modules are used just below each buttons to show the status.


Speaking of the light bulbs, if you start feeling that your display is somewhat getting darker especially around the two big dials than it used to be, then it’s time to replace them. There are two of them.


8820


I posted this long time ago in a different thread.


One of my original bulb was already dead and the other one was showing black shade on the glass.


New ones.


8821


Don’t touch the existing light bulbs unless you have access to the spare ones.


It is very fragile and from time to time, you can damage the filament just by removing it from the display module.


This is one of the reason why I ask the owner NOT to send me the display module when having the CCU board serviced at my place.


Made quite big difference in appearance at the time when I replaced these two bulbs.


Kaz

Nick Graves
20-03-2011, 03:00 PM
Sudesh, you are a total dude!

I was gonna do it whilst I had the dash apart, but was afraid the upper clips of the knee pad would snap off, it was so stuck on & according to the manual, there's a screw for the holder to undo.

I've small hands for a large guy, so I might give it a go.

How on earth did you get a camera under there too?

Nick Graves
25-03-2011, 08:24 PM
Update & back O/T:

My upper section of the 1 (tens) starts off OK, but disappears after a while. This could simply be a high resistance warming up on the LCD or its connexions , as much as a PCB dry solder. Everything else is fine.

I'll just increase the temperature to "20" and then it looks like Japanese number sanjyu (30). I'll tell everyone its a JDM...