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View Full Version : Misfire...so what was the cause?



WhyOne?
20-05-2010, 04:34 PM
As I am sure many of you will know, Y1 developed a misfire about 3 weeks ago.

The misfire was easy (and repeatable) to provoke - just put the engine under load by depressing the throttle and the car would misfire. If the car was driven with a very gentle throttle foot, it appeared to run normally.

A strange (to me at least) feature of this malady was the cars reluctance to store error codes. The ECL would flash but more often than not, no error code would be lodged. Those that did get recorded were mainly related to multi-cylinder misfires. I did, early on, get a cylinder #1 misfire code which initially led to the suspicion that the coil pack in this cylinder being defective. (Cylinder #1 is in the rear bank, nearest to the offside of the car and reletively commonly damaged by water ingress via the vent/duct which runs across the rear of the engine compartment glass 'bubble').

I took the car to my local(ish) Honda dealer and they set about trying to diagnose the problem. After about 10 days (and trying things suggested by myself via ideas proposed here & unearthed on Prime, they were no closer).

The plugs looked fine, it was felt unlikely that all 6 ignition coils would break down at once, the ignitor unit had been swapped with one from another car & it was all looking a bit grim. Next item to swap out was probably going to be the ECU!

I had to temporarily bring the Honda dealers research to a halt as I had promised my eldest son I would take him to his end of school ball in the NSX (he so wanted to go in the NSX rather than a stretch limo...I must have done something right bringing him up!!!!)

I collected my car from the Honda service dept. and they had no further news. Problem still present (though a new ignition coil had arrived at my request & they had experimented with moving this from cylinder to cylinder to no avail).

They were now awaiting a call from Honda technical.

I drove the car very gently for ~30 miles, max revs 3000rpm.

The fuel warning light came on - I never usually let the fuel get this low, but I have been distracted by the misfire. I stopped & filled the car up.

I drove another 6 or 7 miles, again very gently.

No sign of a misfire at all today so far.

I was heading to Simon's (NSXGB) house, as he had very kindly agreed to help me swap plugs, ignition coils & ignitor unit from his car to mine to once and for all establish if the problem lay with any of these components. About 3 miles away I thought I should induce the misfire just to remind me what to do once we had swapped parts from Simons car.

In 2nd gear, 2000rpm I accelerated hard to ~4500rpm. No misfire.

I backed off and accelerated hard again - this time to about 5500rpm. No misfire.

I tried again, this time running up to 6500rpm - no misfire!!!

I couldn't get the car to misfire!

Because of this, there was no point swapping Simon's parts into my car.

I was of course I am pleased that the car was working properly again. But part of me was worried - at least up until this point the problem was consistent - we had a problem to solve!

Having apparently done nothing worried me that the problem would return.

BUT, I had of course done something.....I had filled the car with fuel.

So this set me wondering about the quality of the fuel in the car. I always use fuel from one of the major retailers - Shell, Esso, Texaco, BP. But the fuel in the car was (I am ashamed to say) ~5 months old! I spoke to both Kaz & the garage about this & both accepted that this could conceivably be the reason Y1 was misfiring, but here was some scepticism from both.

There was something else though - and this had not occurred to me at the time until Kaz mentioned it. There is a small valve in the fuel cap which normalises the pressure between tank and atmosphere. I normally get a small hiss when I remove the fuel cap, but when I filled the car up the other day, there was an almighty 'whooosh!' as I released the cap.

It seems possible to me that the valve wasn't/isn't working properly - I have prodded & poked it since and it was certainly not easy to move (I have since fitted a new fuel cap).

It seems to me that this could explain the misfire - remember this only occurred when the engine was under load - if there was a partial vacuum forming in the fuel tank as the fuel level decreased, it would be increasingly difficult for the fuel pump to draw fuel from the tank - especially under hard acceleration.

I have driven Y1 nearly 500 miles since refueling that day a week ago. Everything has functioned perfectly - not a hint of hesitation or misfire (much touching of wood!)

Was it due to degraded fuel, a dodgy valve or something else altogether? I suspect I will never know!

I must thank the community here on NSXCB for all their help, support and advice - so many of you have been generous with your time, advice, bits of your cars etc. etc!!!! This makes owning this wonderful car even more of a pleasure.

Most especially (in no particular order) I must particularly thank Simon (NSXCB), Paul (NSX 2000), Gary (Hagasan), Andy (at VTEC Direct) and of course, Kaz.

I should also thank the service department at Geo Collins Honda, Herstmoceaux. They took the car in at no notice despite being fully booked, spent what time the could on the car, wouldn't recommend buying new parts before finding the root cause of the problem, and were happy to follow up idea's relayed from the good people on NSXCB - I know many service dept's wouldn't do this.

:)

Sudesh
20-05-2010, 04:49 PM
Really interesting read! Hopefully all is well now, at this stage I would think of doing a fuel filter change also, wouldnt do any harm especially if you suspect it may have been bad fuel. You could also ask your dealer to check the pressure on the fuel pump, I guess its spot on anyway but if the fuel was dirty and fuel filter has picked up any contaminants, then pump would be worth a test.

Good thing about the NSX also is, you actually have a drain plug on your fuel tank! So the tank can be drained of bad fuel if you ever suspect it again, or in case the Misses, ever puts diesel in it lol

Nick Graves
20-05-2010, 05:01 PM
It's completely conceivable it was down to contaminated or off-spec fuel. Remember that hysteria over silicone wrecking λ sensors a few years back? I have clients n the fuel business, and errors do happen more than is admitted.

Might be worth looking for kinks in your evap. system pipes or whatever, but I doubt the car's at fault.

WhyOne?
20-05-2010, 05:17 PM
λ

Very good Nick.....a proper Lambda....mark me down as impressed!

The (pre-cat) O2 sensors were the next in line for suspicion after we had largely discounted plugs/ignition coils & ignitor unit.

However the 'open loop ECU' test advised by Kaz eliminated these from the equation.

Sudesh - yes, thanks, the car is in for its annual service in a few weeks, I'll get them to check the fuel pump and change the fuel filter.

nobby
20-05-2010, 09:54 PM
hi mate

interesting read for sure ... but also want to point out this ... i run a wee motorbike i use as my daily commute/winter hack ... its a 2000 Yamaha TRX 850, now she is a parallel twin; but i can tell you this ... if i leave her for a bit and fuel is left in her sitting for about 3wks and when i go to ride her she is an absolute pig to settle down. on riding she feels really lumpy, not much power, you have to be on and off the revs ... once you pull in and add new fuel or put is some additive like Pro-FST ... she runs SWEET ... unbelieveable!

Petrol in my opinion these days appears to go off more rapidly than before ... the bike runs ordinary unleaded all day along and i use the major retailers bp, sainsburys etc

whether or not the NSX is fussy on the juice it needs but good post nonetheless ... i was 1/2 way through your post when i thought fuel ... cause that is how my bike behaves too

Thunder
21-05-2010, 06:42 AM
The fuel east can be contaminated by water, that arrives sometimes after winter when the car remains too a long time in rest, me, I pour an additive in the fuel each spring to decontaminate the fuel and to clean the injectors, the smoke of the engine is of white color (water), then, the engine functions like a clock and white smoke disappears!

WhyOne?
21-05-2010, 07:02 AM
Yes, we did consider the possibility that water had built up in the tank over the winter (condensation forming on inside surface of tank, running down & collecting beneath the petrol).

However, as you note, white smoke from the exhaust would be expected if this was the case and we didn't see this from Y1.

Whilst I cannot be sure, my money is still on a faulty valve in the fuel cap causing negative pressure to build up in the tank, making it increasingly difficult for the pump to draw fuel, especially under hard acceleration.

Hagasan
21-05-2010, 07:40 AM
Hi Ian,

yes glad you've got it running again properly. The fuel cap diagnosis sounds very possible....Maybe you could also have some crap floating around in the tank though and a fill up has swirled it around a bit for now? Will be interesting to see what happens when you get low on fuel again or will you keep the taxman happy by frequently topping up now??

I had the scenario years ago, albeit on a Mk2 Escort with carbs:)

Gary

NoelWatson
21-05-2010, 08:09 AM
There was something else though - and this had not occurred to me at the time until Kaz mentioned it. There is a small valve in the fuel cap which normalises the pressure between tank and atmosphere. I normally get a small hiss when I remove the fuel cap, but when I filled the car up the other day, there was an almighty 'whooosh!' as I released the cap.

It seems possible to me that the valve wasn't/isn't working properly - I have prodded & poked it since and it was certainly not easy to move (I have since fitted a new fuel cap).

It seems to me that this could explain the misfire - remember this only occurred when the engine was under load - if there was a partial vacuum forming in the fuel tank as the fuel level decreased, it would be increasingly difficult for the fuel pump to draw fuel from the tank - especially under hard acceleration.


:)

I thought the fuel pump kept the tank under positive pressure, and the vent worked by letting air out of the tank and not the other way?

NSXGB
21-05-2010, 01:00 PM
I thought the fuel pump kept the tank under positive pressure, and the vent worked by letting air out of the tank and not the other way?
I don't think that be possible? The pump only sucks from the tank.

WhyOne?
21-05-2010, 01:10 PM
I don't think that be possible? The pump only sucks from the tank.

Oi, Simon - go catch fish!!!

(But yes, that was my understanding).

NoelWatson
21-05-2010, 01:24 PM
Oi, Simon - go catch fish!!!

(But yes, that was my understanding).

Think I was wrong there. However, I think the petrol evaporating more than replaces the lost volume as the fuel drains from the tank.
I certainly think that air hisses out of my cap when I refuel rather than gets sucked in.

Nick Graves
21-05-2010, 05:54 PM
It's a sealed system with the fuel being pumped round in a loop by the riser pump. There is a pressure regulator on the manifold and the injectors take what they're told to.

The fuel vapour vented is caught in an activated carbon trap, when everything gets hot and goes positive pressure. There is a small collector (with a pressure control valve) pot on the chassis brace of the S2000, which sounds like a bees' nest (or sometimes a cow!) on hot days. The idea is that when it gets cold, the pressure goes negative & the carbon releases the vapour which finds its way back to the tank. So you're all right, depending on conditions.

It's possible a pipe has collapsed, but unlikely.

W2NSX
22-05-2010, 08:38 PM
Hi Ian

Trust you are well. For reasons that I won't go into, my car stayed in the garage for about a year without being started. When I got round to starting it earlier this year, it was fine, so I suspect that your view on the fuel cap valve are correct.Circuit Blue must be getting very common in the SE as my garage which just did my MOT tells me that there is another CB over in West Malling! I have yet to see it on the road to confirm if it is CB rather than a LBB - but they tell me it have pop ups, so I guess they are correct.
ATB
Mark

WhyOne?
23-05-2010, 06:32 AM
Hey Mark, good to hear form you and pleased to hear that W2 is back in action.

I was of the impression there were only 2 Circuit Blue cars in the country....clearly wrong & they are as common as muck!

W2NSX
11-06-2010, 07:22 PM
Ian
W2 went in for it's MOT today and passed with flying colours. The owner of the garage looked up the details of the 'other' blue NSX and it turns out that it is a 52plate car, so must be LBB rather than CB - so not as 'common' as we feared!! The MOT tester reckons that my car is in better shape and has a nice clutch, where as the 52plate car is all or nothing and rattles when the pedal is pushed home!

ATB
Mark