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Kaz-kzukNA1
10-04-2025, 03:41 PM
As in the recent post, started servicing another NSX.
This is the 1st of the 3 NSX with the same service menu for the efficiency and finger sensitivity purpose.

Big thank you to the owner with the cooling system service letting this owner being served first.
I would have done the same.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMqH9wX0KmxrQWaG7YuObDLaOJcChTqNTBBet17gSawE0 WeVLfe53LMSRxgTg2loHNj-3jlWSmpN1SA-5YPiph9tztAl8uFvb6-CG5Q43VqcRCD1M4JsGsJCEp3MPBZfEfsu6X02gzRs2u9sS67k7 FYDg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Tried to capture the intermittent [BRAKE LAMP] warning but obviously, it won't happen when I wanted.

It happened just when I wanted to take the car out of the garage.

By the time I went back inside the garage to get the tool to hold the brake pedal, no longer be able to reproduce the same issue.

The owner is already aware of this and on the way to my place, confirmed by his friend driving behind in the 2nd car that it was genuinely caused by the partially dead lightbulb or socket.
He noticed that from time to time, one of the brake lightbulb at the left side didn.t work.

The gauge cluster was already refurbished by me years ago and the warning only triggered after pressing on the brake pedal so not the gauge cluster issue.

I will probably replace all 4 brake lightbulbs (JDM) on this occasion.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPe2t4nQYoNb6UIHF62DfY_bTiPt53DyttF4FrmgxIOiz b3EkX9Vg-YON6h56B1jwEdmPhkMV9V4qgAl0ur7oVskkD2CMieuSda_gEMa-UkP2dRVo91a2HbZpFrCgXPjDnW_Kmnl1jHK42Z0y7dn2qidA=w 1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Hope it's nothing to do with several extra wires running behind the carpet inside the boot….





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNVp71YzrPxCEM1mXGEslOXk1LfKdMdazBevDo_QlTnep iVL5aj0Hgvhy0sTUXBN0vztrqZlWwWeOb896AUZo4quj7Mr5zu wdftsoSRRNoRaHzweJnysxcdATRD3puRij9CAEN-cbL-UfNMlRyEWmFW5g=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
The owner told me that he re-charged the a/c refrigerant twice but only lasted few days.

And the a/c specialist was someone following the rule.

He told the owner that he would not be able to charge the system if there was obvious leakage detected.

And it was already re-charged twice yet the owner told me that it only lasted few days.

So, connected the manifold gauge and somewhat expected, it was completely empty.

From all the info I have, I suspect it's leaking from the compressor seal or the schrador valve.

If the refrigerant escaped within few days and with such huge leakage, the specialist would have detected so very unlikely to be damaged pipe or fitting o-ring issue.

Still, I'll give a good look.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNOS9WGKtUXUY-kIJeTFIT17MwohHL6aZf6t4P8mj6QgagM8fLrByb4ln0IySxIi V9gvfrd-ZuuLtPtTlnTEMy76SNjBQlflK3Z0dduS_oGVi5jlRBTGS1NLRB dOMCGoipb3XPcY5mLCxgg3BNwTsWujg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Wanted to carry out the vacuum check but must replace this hose gasket first.
(The red panel is my tool box, not the body work.)

Didn't like how it looked and ran out of the new one but easily found verywhere.

I must have overtighten the fitting last time.


Very unlikely but just hope the leakage is not happening at the evaporator.

It happened on my NSX.

Whole dashboard must come out from the cabin.

As I need removing the blower fan motor for the ABS Upgrade, I'll first start with the inspection of the evaporator.

As a side note, it's important to use the A/C regularly to oil the seal and o-ring around the system.

The oil travels throughout the system via refrigerant and that's why when you have system leakage, you will lose the compressor oil as well.

If the compressor was not engaged for months/years, the refrigerant will escape from the compressor front/rear seals.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOJgdzOxIVbqG9k-quJc5qW9SfDSya-EdBRNIb0zqY1_5TvrtC0T2DtMhPbEiyVQCPGkqwiZ-4iS5z3AV468b2nPmpY8_xg5gq2h-gEkwfXHjYFjbaxVpjXtJO_kpTIm-stOwBHTFmn9QrUYzfHH4LSfg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Just like this one.

With the same photo, tried showing that it still has the original WP but not great camera angle.

Kaz-kzukNA1
10-04-2025, 03:51 PM
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPMGpQ9NYFgi3fp0OYsx6JSarFaJTgrLPy-V7pfDcykn9pUaM4MkC47nTjuvqXsgUVhzOZHMfB7EX2bqosHJ5 2EIBcJTU355jgOe-bJr5DB29erHkTWZ-wuMgZW9Pphv4wN9fC8niHd2wFj5WBY7ZE3Sw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOuIfEHuJkKQIv2Nt2u6540kcxa3CeJIuES9W5EPx-K6mRnulnji_0FgEDAqUQAeoDM60r4YdCf8uCbC1qnl9zo0CCTH rEVxB0f4EMI2-9EGNwwTGp0-zMeYhu__9CmSqpbBE-M3anJEjgLyjqG2EEwrA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
This is something new.

The aluminium crimped section of the radiator upper tank is opening and seeping the coolant.

Not enough to cause even a single drip on the floor though.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO6_hw7PQgEpJ1CQNVn6EFIXQnIwvvvwFboeOl8I_Xw5b uQi4yLdCKOLOIeifcU1PQMiveNw9LVKnjz9mv3-m9cOj-rGX9gp7vN03zgh9y41YfAuifnoNr192GPkr0esPIb0M1-Dy2JxvVy0jRW3zu5aQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Not sure when was the last time the coolant level was adjusted but it was above the Min but not at the Max level.

On NSX, coolant enters from the bottom side of the radiator so normally, you would see this crimp opening at the bottom tank.

Also, seen many hose neck getting cracked for the same reason at the bottom side.

Not enough sample but I have never seen one with upper neck being cracked.


Will speak to the owner to replace the radiator.

Hope Koyo one is in stock and it is my policy not to re-use the upper and lower rad hose on the aluminium radiator so new ones required.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP5Cmq41R0wHTfJsXdp6SvD30cADdhbfqIZ4WKyMNtA_9 ADP5w7XcwcGXxbO-Y9K-PXhWuoIQmOYE-KIS9HWvZPk4DbDrEfVyjm_zGg8PXHox_zX4pVDW9KVpJsDphr6 VGSucSGJzbAImrb5wepDB1C9g=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Already in the plan but to remind other owners.

Please never use non-WPC method for any wiring that could face the high humidity.

This is the rear O2 sensor connector and already seen patina corrosion in the past.

It will harden the wires and eventually, breaks off.

Unfortunately someone chopped off the OEM connector so must be repaired.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPAm047nQNcZYOYcZdz6JZY9166Qo2mS91XjHhJXBNcEs Ucil1BreDaBElpYAI3XgG2lMw0Jl1jGw4auANGd2fvalv6V4hQ Uwr8hhb_FdP4kSPzXFy8ijbvlnIkaBLkvvmJOKiceWam8uNw3G HgpeaDSQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Not great camera angle but wanted to show the state of the oil cooler top hat.

Very rusty and quite rare but already seen eng oil leakage from here.

I think it's already discontinued so I'll chemical treat it later.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP-DBgEMq-7PXmYGGbROYRWTqqb8kz-qW0e2BEdXCcAKSldM0Q3Yiw-ypyvCz_PNDVbUpHpN9LADNYf9u7RtJyPhbnLxvWPDgxWWNZibG COmWcwQVmYTcpnXD4pDT8ikMJvlP1BjpfNExr2Xcr4KB4WlQ=w 1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Will check the alignment around this area.

I would say too close each other.



Compression test, initial test driving, further Health Check to follow before starting with the ABS Upgrade and evaporator inspection.

More to follow later.


Kaz