Lots of Electronics 202503

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Started servicing another NSX and focusing on the Health Check as there are few things I want to check first before taking the Eng/gbox out of the bay.

Strange wire coming out of O2 sensor ext cable, a/c refrigerant leakage that the specialist couldn't find from where, intermittent [BRAKE LAMP] warning but confirmed it was the actual lightbulb but which one, etc, etc.
Will post in another thread.


As reported earlier, in parallel, working on lots of electronics components from one NSX.

Although being told I can take time, some of the components are required for running the engine or driving.
Aiming to finish all of them soon.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPFtTjZhXAAdNM70IDswMV_roCCTQ2t9_-WEVIIj91FvQaV8_ANjRTFq17PXJGoLa8INK93WcoRaVTTvMQX2 6Ka0Zcr8JygLKlpJp7vRXnNtlte56qevW1C1uv-9PO7yYtGz3MnnRO5LFjmDui5rBNU3w=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
FCU (Fan Control Unit)

Normally, I would just re-solder it if I can confirm that it was at least operating fine before the removal.

However, I don't know enough of the background of this FCU.

Also, there are few different failure modes that can damage part of the components on this circuit board.

Thus, going to use my NSX for testing purpose later.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNkKlfAiBqw-y5x0TwwG7w8nhGeogP2kV3_DomUgTnwHR6uziVKQNh8c6T0aXY SoJg1FweeW-vzE7YsSdKCm9-MWjBQQjHW3-3Ctlg6Y_0iXxqjVx1mBA67ORTx7Vunzf1zVQEM3i2IkNSGnu0P VL9tJw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
As seen on many original FCU, lots of hairline crack at many joints.

This photo is just showing one part of the board but there are more at different area.

In this photo, at least 6 cracks can be seen.

Regardless of craking or not, just re-solder every single joints.

Quite a lot so takes time.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMbgq9TaeKBe9AEKImm7Of42YmtT6yLuCL4PBf_haSRaR ZhOQc_LSHh8BN4cxbyXF4cJkCdd-KCCfFlQJtISCbgG6pr3Xsp2FFptnD0fd1ZZk7bH6Kfq7ABHx6W wordLIU9YS9HGanLhYvEmCLSptkWwg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMHPq-DY5Of9jJ7EY-VEdgWQJrMxS1MlbWx-FxSaBbcoiQaLvWpbfdhY1TYDZJuBxF_5xrQQRNtOULA9XjoFwd M_p1zO8aBZ2KF8xdhGiiPpDts1tjkmeZq-M4LKqyL3bzgYjMUZYToKHSrIHubByl38Q=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Quick dash of coating.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNxB7IeFMVkQCOH6KjptsFrRnS1NzQEONtoQXpHNa9qUB az08a6ubRgnRoNBLE4qPx41QLt3ABi64osa04pIPxdhkcZZurT TEPYXmkGq8IATvZAblwsQtSLUArBgUXRoxUVcZEP0Nz8VdtB6P LnjO4t4A=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Time for testing.

I have the mockup resistor for rad fan operation check but in order to test the a/c condenser fan, using the actual car.

After driving my NSX with my own FCU for a while, the rad fan kicked in so parked the car and swapped the FCU without running the engine.

IGSW P2 On and the rad fan operated fine so at least I have confidence in driving my NSX with this FCU.

A/C checked fine as the FCU responded properly with the CCU request of A/C On and Off.

Parked overnight to cool everything down and confirmed that the rad fan and the R&L condenser fans stayed Off when they should.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPL9S2aFf_RLR18Wc9GQrCBSKa1iL1YSHsan-VE9JqUWFzBEE48g5rI89rY-_YmNPJEL1WbS01tHH6tvADZ85S14nnQHxsZCul3Y0PGRb0qm59 QwV9phDVTQXzBdrku-ruJcKOvzhsUWOew2FyMgVoAHg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Kept driving with the owner's FCU for 32 miles over the next few days.

No abnormal rad fan operation and the A/C worked fine in cold early morning to mild afternoon weather.

Quick mockup resistor testing for rad fan Hi mode and a/c condenser fan + compressor Off situation.

Though, hope the engine would never experience such extreme heat.

Happy with the result and done.


By the way, quite impressed how well some of the trims inside the cabin is acting as sound deadening.

Removing just the upper trim behind the seat makes huge difference over the noise/sound getting inside the cabin from the point you start the engine to while driving.

No wonder why I can't hear the passenger above 2,000rpm when in Type-R with the single partition glass.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczN9qzTEgFsSTdSGOLgBS9uZNBEw-IAVjmDdl4lpYZqgvWboCem9EK-y_QIR9RCpWO73ldMtiWeF-n5AJLQ6cSaziqIkePFIj_4rwE4iFNXJQDwdyl0lT9kX2KBEfl5 UeNi3jx2tyStlo0v3jQShtvSYow=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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Being told that this NSX has aftermarket system at the R & L door speakers but the passenger footwell one was still OEM.

Don't know whether it was in use with the aftermarket system or not but sad to see the state of the unit.


Someone partially opened the speaker box and pulled the cable out for some reason and then decided to close the lid....

At first glance, all wires looked to be cut through.

Full of dust around the cone.

Will check in detail later.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPHbISauiJvAnOWCfOSE0HHrticMGU2_WYqOCGaD90nFI ISDgmLOc1_G0i_0bfao3MLEUN38h7p5-8vJ83VYDAh5iEB8X5GHD2hE2GcD8oIOpwLpltjHiDQQIv0E7I6 9fuMP8PfesLz4IcDFvuR2XONFA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
The Bose AMP was of the very early spec without any coating and the green capacitors in use.

After quick measurement, powered up on the bench and just lots of squeaking noise.

Lots and lots of capacitor leakage.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP_nGQPf_Yssgoe3gwKYEJgxEvezFSfpG35fcc4_ERulz fngqv6lX4NuTilwv5nDk5MZu2rJsBLxatYGkHH_wVzyI-Ms9GHkO2n_LsISStixOkU9CMXURP-ma9wl_jDjT4jP1pT4qQLojhxGOo3fbpcvw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Lots of cleaning and scraping the contaminated area.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP2GHzHCDIk4a9A1ZR1MTiPqx1aHSIjQo3hdZRgO2x_ff cxGeS-AlpgQ4ZasTuEaN7-748O1dMed2b8MmsxbPin1GF5g8XwiTpKqZgpPMRRrIKA86nUsb nWys06yjZdF5AkBG4bvs43Jj4BtvO38APq6w=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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After lots of effort, happy with the initial bench testing so applied conformal coating and the thermal compound.

More than 24Hr bench testing with thermal shock in between.

Used OEM head unit as the signal source with all sorts of EMI on purposely induced.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMloGbM6oeDrdo8X81IRgcMBpht8aVde46MUg_-nPUPsaWw3eXJfe6hOO9u1QvnMef4wqvaabUvWA3uf12L30id7Q kIrfOFriLDlAAkw-u1VWqcojUl5afzupNyTHAu-TjRqtfWinIa1TKin4t15G717w=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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Time to look into the damaged internal cable.

Peeled off part of the sleeve/insulator of the wire and fortunately, the only major damage was at the black GND cable.

The rest of the wires only got the markings on the sleeve so mild heat would treat them.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczN9VxRkuJmYegDhU3yklVQy6jBgs3vgklNgvUUvJnrBK5 gKmUAuYTliLlRe6zr5-27yKuBwg_6Fld5AIirR3pyXgNaooghnt1y9v1CPHFDGcFg5VAx D4b2Gpyj6CKIip7vsCpQYpr1sPOZZ5W3aKC7JUw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Repaired the GND wire using mini-seal and the heat shrink tube.

Never use soldering where the wires can’t be fixed securely under vibration.

Don’t know why Thatcham requests the security device wires to be soldered to the OEM cables….




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPvPQLPO0QZVVu4u73__5bvfb1DBijdfzwpF4tPsVdTlq mh3yeAN5N0k_sZGA8rPqPzonhtEXUt6oIOI1TVdIzmS9LEdhBB SGdhFdOreRpdOIZf61lmetbA5yFWA-NId9hHnKKlB5a3IWykDwflSu8Y1Q=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Wrapped in new EPT sealer.





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Another 24Hr testing with additional Bose speaker cone in place of centre speaker.

All testing passed and done.



Moving onto the 2 x CCU boards.

One should be easy, the other one showing lots of leakage but hope I can fix it.


Now that the A/C CCU board is discontinued from Honda, this spare one would become precious.


Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Already in the test driving mode for the 2 x CCU boards so just quick update.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPtHnt5QJIb9-vYQjLMIfMQzlqA2eYx3plqhWm26qkEuv_AvrhLc4eaQWeSnPqi HsipgTP4UL3b0eO0GsjMI8PWKGfgRDe6ND8pINg2tO_F4mQiAv te5rt9aQ_LoWxBy6XSfOe_pOcGiMRoG8d_JjRflg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczORZ91RGqmMcne5UB9XJfcEfvVU7eFn_Eetiw1nd4h8Un p_uCFUIXutcJR1UCUpx0XE1QVc1gKCiRyyyGLOarsiQRJM3LdC pXiIRc8BUJz1Gecuzi23E00kSOmtw4VT0lO6eaUyomLUd4w3bA Qtpei0LA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
The 1st board was the latest spec and according to the owner, it was replaced by Honda dealer in the past.

Although the owner reported that the fan speed only operated at max speed setting, most likely the cause was outside of the CCU such as relay, etc as no issues were found.

As seen on the same spec circuit board, it takes more time removing the extra thick coating than replacing the capacitors.

Even using the suitable nozzle diameter, the thick coating can cause partial blockage of my trusted vacuum pump operated de-soldering gun.

Had to use hand operated manual de-solder at many locations.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMX_rTL5o11S4tMXMovHO8UkyVbu7SgQxnvZmwtTM4uBh 2U1ljcfzDx06xfudDAVUa58aQsKw_JLHr93o-eF8cmLXU34mG3EwWQ-T63ocEuxqbRF4MYJEaalMN9qD190PMAREgSN3SOuCJqLPeoceM 7PA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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Still, just minimum extra time required, conformal coating applied, quick bench test and ready for the input/output testing using my NSX.


Following photos were all taken after finishing the service on the 2nd board so the timeline is out of sequence.

However, to keep this post related to the 1st board, going to post them here.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO99bJkXJC8I_Ph35jF4kbnpwqUPxDYqucJy2dOGTcRMm HA1zlX0rAF8yMPgR_XlQFCsKbXZPUepolhn3H-HL8gn8hkU-VbzHjk95fCh5Nvu_5TOtQy_mYnaVytZy7aqiD94HV5zMTDV-EtbzP8lWCL8g=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Input/output check using the Self Diagnosis test.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPnyMgDpbzRJXpLmT2UfAjEv4zGI57-Epfsn0dwW1PJiBiJMJared1igMqWlR2h3zTJx6W7qS5iv1PEn5 qvEWt28uYEC9CqTC5X_8FD-gnL_rvnKj6oIrJA4HU6xNmdFPrCxxwGzT2HNisAP27ktuO0GA= w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Followed by the Function & Operation check.



Mode control, fan speed control, A/C On/Off, Fresh/Re-circ, etc all worked fine.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO92JdKuVzJXJ_Cd3EEXM_Clf_g3ij_xObRSXf3sX_5kJ XF2dDCmsHtybpvuxb-YxYPRkFdsS00p0APz-hiowBEi00CLGcjle8ORM3slFV47JnJ-j7HwtgJO6Kg54NIT15quzoZpBRIECwpJpFVzCkmjA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Water valve control checked.



Normally, I won’t put mileage on the latest-latest board but since the display module was hand carried together, going to put small amount of mileage with this display module.

This will result in no disassembly required on re-installation and thus, if still the fan speed control doesn’t work properly, it's something outside of the CCU.


Moving onto the 2nd board that was given to the owner as a spare by someone.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOd3rjU6UXriV7GNIMtecVwVXRyGlv6nNdf-Fd1gNxoVdqjsOot1d9WEGnc4SNhFHhEVqxvwVWi9zICuu-LHH4uVOjL4v1bllV_0pNdy64OPgAhm_Jj_ZVG3rdiVICDJF4Dn U1lff2va2pHy65mltZMpw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO3MJVAxETUQ91KxEKB7i7U8wq4vRGfO938M8YVrnovbs VUd9rEQqQ6A7DQPMdDAX5PF20SGTVcR10mLQjkSf5m1ssggpUc NLqoyda59Q-SGxxiGZMrqJ7WV-KWQq5EZBmOLcD4aLsEkur77EKveJ7g7Q=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
This is the spare board that the owner was given by someone in the past.


Someone already tried replacing 2 of the capacitors on this board but .....

It damaged the through holes and the pads.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP9WOM68Gq6IOM5To9V3xfkCqZMSR5i67oxqKAU1GPWaJ ejDT8mbtVy2xZQmaHMKM12LnITF3I4guCYo2DspAxiLZupSBRM G7rv9vPrY8g3BW-CY3vYeZwyuJNtHI90fNWfiOB2gOT9a4yt4wOQNc0cAg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
No much cleaning carried out so the acid was still chewing into the circuit board.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOIN5YHfia-lD01a_A9fx1_2KzBTy8mj-DihJPfVYYJmUeBg-cZFpuMIkNZN3zhTbZai8APdUJ4_yxpKOvwcRcNX26ga7vR06sF T1ur19PLN1liSg3huraGYchDYLPaPjQ0n2QqewU1vo1y4DX1jW 6-VQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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Lots of contamination found and at least, 3 resistors had to be removed for cleaning and repair purpose.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMmwpluBtCT4kgQxqAt50iSx_yZAbsIGu4AkUoN1WOu3-bvRtkIV_DMMCJjN3-9xMSG9hF7pLxr4G2vE6mgdSEC2USXmobgHuMT4ioeEc5tz5pUJ BHej4sg6Qjl_c4g2Yqb96lUXb-gXox5e8bKn45WPg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Lots of cleaning, scraping, etc.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPD7i7AzyWfb29e14aGpTv_98UdV8rfgfp1tR0hv04TIG vr-EEpUit-WujBCNjTxQ1wgGkRd5-tWjBzqED-uW9tzZu41R4HJ4miJnIywNC6lO7lyYRF1--E6hY0sGa7b9JFidnllbVh3SUtS3LGRtevag=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNFx-UysoGhEsO1EVjVOWR3HDqW_Fh0I3RvFljBnt-nNYiv8Fz3D7Md3Y81Ng4z6Ay5zWEs7TneS4VRpI78TdV5RxO6P mvFN-v7hZU4Ap7xFjYneGXPPKWPzKAHO2MYf1vbCKpgcoiny1teRdbW wYkPng=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
At the end, 2 hard wires, 4 jumpers, lots and lots of soldering bridge used for repairing the dissolved tracks and pads.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNRAX2EO25xfEauPDPQWDiaVm7ox2i11KgR4cwTF7ZW3Z sLNP4cqMIJ6URGdJIZDb_vN7KpL3pu_S2_fdAZnAfSeaXd_nsU Ve28ZRX1Vl8QM5RdMlAZL91F3Oq7SED8TJ1PK86gwNUY0Ou2Tv ZZL8pBCw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Conformal coating applied and the same tests carried out as per #1 board.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNQAkOj0Si80Eovtdx8Dw7ceIVSwQGmARfUVPrzCxxp9l IwPgoJ0GVvsV7jWcyukHFEV5vGouj2hdOkqSoSyv_8wLQJjk9D pJgbnZYFRRYDBf2PlBPcQAEgVg2FtddoSnN4WzOF0S4bxZqikl wNtsbuGw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Started putting some mileage on this spare board first.

Display module illumination checked.

Aiming to cover 50km/30+miles and already covered 20miles so bit more to go.

Then, swap the board with the #1 one.



Moving onto the Gauge Cluster and the Audio Head Unit.



Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Already halfway through the Gauge Cluster service.

Having fun with the NSX at my place.
Well, not really….
All these extra wires behind the glove box and need access for removing the classic ABS controller during the ABS upgrade.
Just don't want ending up not being able to start the engine again.


So, quickly summarise and close the service on these two A/C CCU boards.

First, test driving with the #2 spare board.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNtl0XNnBmXmEh7uZuazMBolMh6shwnlMAr3uSyeTa6Ya 0tc27-iEhshhjdAbj2w58bM4hGCvcsV7_zvoSieYLxhXX0sDGt92wJFC-68BXamvayNJE87iyU3cGy6dxppz7GroGjF6v_dlv2rFmSnRO6-A=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Covered 34miles/55km of test driving session.
Went through scenario testing under all sorts of temperature, vibration, EMI environment.
If something doesn't work, most likely, it's caused by something outside of the CCU board.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPezNQjqRv9O8dfzcqsXfFH9y_YYaIq2SklG-n_1VjMByvvg9O7y_rSibGyuFYRnSxFWeIsvOGVzA4GvrHWSf7X ZcJ47v8wKWLKPTijMUvC3oO_N12CAGyzyQlq4KkIhzJwZW01Cl lg2GUWDvBRKtMnpQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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Now the #1 main board.
Normally, I won’t put any mileage on the latest-latest spec circuit board as my test procedure using my NSX is enough.
However, since I had the display module here and had to take the #2 spare board out of the cabin, just placed small amount of mileage.

There is no need separating the display module on re-installation.
Again, if something doesn’t work, the cause is most likely outside of the CCU.

Both board worked flawlessly and no problem at all.

Happy with the result and ready to be returned to the owner.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOYxOrcRwP5BPW0zX77h_SaGwK-Ptmt3U1A6IIaZydiBSo5xSdiMhDw6XsooZB44moWNUYhcvA0zk BMPxcASIZn17_2KH5S5OfTiA7k5PPDgGqOmtSz4hFBVlmgwhzA 8If1Lb2XDymrAGfY4uIixT0QRQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Already in the process of preparing for the gauge cluster calibration.
Lots of capacitor leakage so took fair amount of extra time.

Kaz