Blog entry - Eng Refresh, etc

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

[ Create the link to the blog here; *** ]

After spending years on the lift, glad to be able to report that this NSX just passed the MOT this week.

Although I drained the fuel tank empty and added fresh fuel together with the new O2 sensor, just didn’t know whether I can make the CAT hot enough.

The car was SORNED and thus, only possible to drive to/from the MOT place with the proof of MOT booking in case stopped by the authority.


On the way to/from the MOT place, noticed the volt gauge only showing 14.0V when it should be around 14.5V.

It has fresh battery and I’m quite sure it was not like that when I fired up few times last week.

When the IGSW is in P2 On, the volt gauge shows just above 12V so can't be the volt gauge calibration offset.


Typical.... just when I don't have much spare time.....


Will start looking into this from tomorrow but most likely, I’ll end up overhauling the alternator.

Fortunately, have all the parts including the aftermarket rectifier except for the regulator.


Details and photo will be in the blog.



By the way, if we upgrade the Forum platform, it is very likely that all the existing blog posts would be treated as separated thread entry in one of the Forum section.

I need to think about this carefully before posting any further blog entry from now on.


Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Well, initially I thought it was the alternator causing the low voltage reading.
As in the above post, when IGSW in P2 On, it was showing above 12V and didn’t drop below 10V while cranking so thought couldn't be the volt gauge calibration.

Turned out, I was wrong.

With the fresh battery, the volt gauge should have been much higher when IGSW in P2.

Didn't help when my own battery was 5.5 years old yet showing just over 12.0V in P2 and just about holding 10.0V during cranking.
Later, I found that my battery is getting fairly tired but no slowing down or hesitation during cranking.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMYjUc8ZaueoyqAEwaxZ1Bc98O2r4E5krGx8jN7VoSEJZ 06hDcM2snbYDSxXuOdtDWV1qXSgiwfruOERsJsjOa5lvU_-Q2V5zsqK31zVv34p5ZZEY0_8rAUzuSKO8IlpXUssqd1nx98SvQ Vfth0fUseMw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
With the battery tester connected, the alternator was outputting 14.7V and when rpm increased to like 2,500rpm,
the voltage regulator adjusted the field current properly to regulated the output power so nothing wrong with the alternator.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPfPzJQrwFUsx56XxMdyjF_TRGOnI0k7Y_FC_ZQB_bIdd B3rOj-t1_cOfZXqGqEKCFcjKAnCzEJ0sdl0I7eJZ55liozmYpECp9gfB _eBfi2Gn18-mJYcrvYPa2Eq7DHz75HdgxEJ9leHw_6JNHaWdbzaQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
The ripple current waveform suggested potential one diode failure but I saw the same shape on my alternator with perfectly checked rectifier so the rectifier on this one should be fine as well.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNH-V_4bPe5V9kjzyd9DF30hJoED4CYxOQ1YBjFuORZFGa5Ug-Nkpk8DocvG8HO-gzPP1guYBq6l8btv9Pq9M29lr78aPG1AXO0r2qWfXg50AkyoI1 bDmwutGXrZkcXkzBwxAUJiOehhVFPNOdnyIMWNw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
So, with this photo, the volt gauge should be around 14.5V and not like 14.0V.



After discussing with the owner, we agreed to refurbish the gauge cluster and overhaul the alternator as well.

So, I will be busy with these for about 2 weeks.

I don’t want touching the centre console again to investigate the audio noise issue that I couldn’t reproduce.

There is very sophisticated security system on this NSX so I even had to assist the MOT operator last month.

Don’t want ending up not being able to move the car.

Probably replace the L-side door speaker AMP first for testing purpose and ask the owner to cover some mileage as I just couldn’t reproduce the issue he mentioned.

More to follow.


Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Quick update on this NSX.

So far, no drama with the gauge cluster.
Lots of cap leakage but nothing new.

As reported in previous blog, just takes much more time with European spec MPH speedo than the JDM KPH one.
One of the calibration pot can max out.
Will continue.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMiXv5JxPzEaMGfattmdcYFfR0Yf4MxI4BREtKPRmUx76 jRNizHCux-JPEH3P68QeqpVySJQpifIG1m090q_y_iH0-TcTkzEgXsdDMKqNKenntJWaapnkAiw91prbVwj8F-3GmhSSIiCV4fWhvmJaZMIQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Now the alternator.

As expected, really rusty internal metal and lots of debris.

Nothing new and even experienced similar situation with different screws in the past.

However, with this one, just couldn’t remove this screw.

Despite using my super-duper Nepros JIS driver, it damaged the screw head.

Fortunately, it’s the one between the regulator and the brush holder so not going to prevent me from disassembling further.

Rectifier removed and looked to be fine apart from one of the diode but will check.

Considering the mileage, I will replace it with new aftermarket one as it’s not expensive.

In the process of replacing the front/rear bearing.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMBJSKGYboK9E6THZYX4BtwW8SleVZY_Jvxx7LrSbGzBo Sf0MWVU6bZ1aC3Sxe31F9zu1DEp62EiOBYiyGAA8KtaVZXsFDq Bve0rSQTotPV3SJXQoVXPPicUd-52HkuMewzXih5EsAOlbImYM5CVbxa2A=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Don’t want any significant shock to the regulator so going to use router with cutting disc to deal with the damaged screw.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP41TSE1nP41ssZiOOGUenxh-CVqAXwR6j9nME9VtqB6pX-1x14n6xbbW8mC2MirYehRGjCsRkPdHv3Tj1twJvtqiU1RNx-lI6H8VerattlghPiKO-rff-j6GbaMRzT5ng4ICJodewPdDpZE2fCEm-0dw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Good decision to overhaul now.

Just less than 1mm to go before hitting the limit.

Though, seen many brushes on other make/models went well over the limit.

Informed the owner that I’ll aim to put everything back on the car by this weekend.

Then, finally can carry out the proper test driving session.

Must put extra fuel in the tank.


Once I’m happy with the test driving result, finally I would be able to return the car to the owner.

Hope I’ll be ready some point next week.


Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNLRB9MYDNb_JHH7fWWkSrRB9wFef_QgfTbBGpmz_mxoJ CwDNuqSaI-AgG8BuA1uztyLu89deX1uDA5w3e7iWvcSdF7oQ0Kh16-cB0a-PURwvSgFhTwZ9QupjHKknkdDt3_wJcKIyRNQ_1-C4j37WMw1g=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Encountered another issue so behind the schedule.

Quick update while servicing the gauge cluster in parallel.

The rounded screw mentioned in the last post removed.
The OEM regulator saved.
Some refresh done.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNCL6LywYF8e_pWk-VvS4zEtJJ8HGnF2sLmEn8JLBopyLjnY1vdweVReGt4wjM5U2PL FHJeMSofhmg_Va4D7r9K1AU1ZVlK50tKz1ytafK3wNOk5GmQhQ oFbvVOYmmpA2JjqTDtbevHeWt1fwAtwqzLsQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Already knew going to have problem with the long body 7mm bolt at the bearing cover.
So much oxidation, debris and rust.
Although the alternator can get extremely hot, didn’t want using blowtorch or any excessive heat on such thin aluminium body.



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At the end, one of the four bolt head seared off but expected.
Can drill out from the back but didn’t want damaging the thread.
Going to leave it as it’s not a sealed cover.


The structure is pretty much the standard package.
Using the wing washer at one side of the rotor shaft held by the bearing at each end.

The only exception with Honda is the way the mainshaft held inside the Gbox.
Three beatings positioned at different parts/structure and the mainshaft is quite long.
Don’t think other manufactures would do such thing.


Took so many photos but just some them here.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczM2kAKebZsGjsJRX6p-_0eU-V87r9FJ70UTxEEqib4bzi45JlatjB_DdWQaTJxvWSsXVBu298L DEl6taKozrAXBGZ9YCxbODeRf4XPb1CkGAQst2KOk81RPAKIqa p9tSbIYntRcsTLerUjo66XIvdGgHw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Majority of the new parts.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOj6G8Shj2mfXPedg2N_OWtbgQpMfZTCO7F4FLhcutGIj BixWqpolKtpUu3cp9QEoCcYRaEuB2-53JCqVfbDry2phBKSMgrr1MUek_n4F_OOaYtTAlhZB4iQiIJfc f_9VkedeS0UpZ6oXwDQ1AoB1WRZA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Slip ring gently reconditioned.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPdP29YkZllFADuL8_nROmxuHdrek2rh_aqb3hp1g1Ixf 4IGOOsQmShdj0Qz2tU3nm1Y9ei6jz9AIKmKj4mILr3yUEChFGd iCWTaocnusRtLFoqYufLGcDq75htddjrK3ykbx73tcaT_Gmzuj Upq3WIJg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Although existing rectifier was fine, considering the mileage, went with the new aftermarket one.

New Denso brush holder, new screws and aligned.

As my standard procedure, will run the rotor at slow speed later to bedding in the brush tip against the slip ring.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOVP9_oYmKJ0EV_YYSIi6Ma4uMB2NxEfb8hf6IIjXhPXt milFOaomBi6sKAhReJMxYWlDzy0ZcPzSkLEAyeqAeo4CCRsX4J 1ZPYLak3k1vhGeefYuRD4wyqHBIUaToGCx2bALwUi3ZYNNZwtA BtFRWiZA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Now closed, will tighten the pulley nut later.

Ready to be back on the car.


Continuing with the gauge cluster circuit board.

Will keep eye on the weather forecast as don’t want driving in the strong wind or heavy rain.


Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Took more than 200 photos just for the gauge cluster service.
Only some of them for here.


On removing the gauge cluster, found aftermarket devices breaking into the factory loom.
Probably something to do with the sophisticated security system.
Not so sophisticated when leaving the wire unterminated.....




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNxeLYCOJNQvLAQit0Pi6-BFOM7s723dgcuQzp6XJoaXTDHHbf4cALQCGs8xfJWPRPxQjo8q k4L-1l3uk5NTUqKE4By0hqk5h0p4C0ITOYjqP151-R5THxNuJQg-fVnV8LBWc9LRacS-XbyCHU0E2tntg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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Probably the owner didn’t notice this but upto around 50mph (80kph), the speedo accuracy was just about OK.

Thereafter, it started showing lower than the actual car speed.




Real speed [mph]
speedo needle [mph]


100
97


125
120


150
140


175
161






Also, it displayed the same phenomenon of ‘hanging/hesitating’ speedo needle movement at the higher speed range.
Don’t remember seen one on JDM KPH unit.

Not 100% sure but the only time I saw this phenomenon was on 95+ European clusters but very rare.

Honda did change some of the capacitor spec and the circuit board layout from 95+ but don’t know it’s related.



On the tacho side, the usual 300+rpm offset observed.

At 5,000rpm, the needle sat at about 5,300rpm and larger offset at higher rpm range.



Another unit with trace of excessive heat.

The sleeve of the big capacitors were sliding off from the body.


Was expecting much larger offset at the volt gauge calibration as that was one of the reason for this service
Will re-calibrate it later.


The cap leakage was not too bad around the warning indicator HIC.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOPmfqY7zWaMy6nWNYPrz0_WRz-WEQiHPxGJq93ZG6z7-8676JFW-u-c5Bgdv8emfyh3mOpjmOH6Q0On96YBLcrbY8O9YTGy3apD6ufff oA3290y6Z9XvyyjN9sduMC_1eoEjrLpHzDcFfPNPWT--s6wg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Washing up.



Cleaned and treated both the odo and trip meters.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPRlbwI19l2z9jMF2ff-LhXOiIKKNbyOqlovV_-S_x-Pp5DMXDBCF92UFNLWBn8rQeI2S9uygsSi2DBFAfg7KRTE9Xm6H GiyVkG-e9ZCD8rBL6WgrQ1x37aShMFJqkMR6hX_tp3VjPeY4JPUMD427A MoA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Volt gauge re-calibrated.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMxiCeDC7myFvTNMnYNCsoW-zwlrpU_QO6XVXh1yZV2azvD6_1--tCogfsaEoiLHSH8SmeBzl-aBoeaHTLnpBKjvAAzJgjx3XTQqP8ekUsZMEuuO8_5hXSvrceqG v0iwS7VE8zr5QwutW3cBJ5enxeKAQ=w1080-h678-s-no?authuser=0
I’ll post in my own build thread but started paying much more attention to the oil pressure gauge.

On my NSX, I started seeing about 0.4 kgf/cm2 higher reading than it used to be since around Apr/24 but most likely,
it started much earlier, slowly/gradually increased and only spotted last April.

Before and after the service on this gauge cluster.

There is no adjustable calibration with the oil press gauge and only the resistor at the back.

Thus, replacing the capacitor and whatever other factors, that inclreased the reading at exactly the same simulated signal and environment.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMT_per78pgL931lYZQcovnw4Rfc1rzSK1wcNrYWcf7CZ dmOEtLMeCgbTHt2fWDXvgh-yvOGb7GwwzUAUUmv_qEXAZUu37PDeN3Rocg9viyVlexoDiO9cN smt2yqeQWVNcfIEk-IPGXJyzh94-kCzrb7g=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Illumination light bulbs were fairly burnt out.
Replaced all of them with the new ones.





Calibrated speedo at 10kph interval.
With the classic coil arrangement and the vector force, must calibrate it in both direction.

Even when the gauge was at 3 o’clock position, confirmed that the needle returns to zero under sudden loss of power.
It’s one of the design spec.


Tripmeter accuracy tested using the simulated 160kph signal for 5min.

Odometer tested at the very end once everything assembled and added 2.0miles with the simulator.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPQDWwx9BAX1V2Y-l6Fktk5K08rgq8CjjyFz8e0PbDIn1gmnBcUKSh4uu__vB3vE_S nGsJOodNGvnA3Cb1dkPuphJAFKYjnaN_vXJ3JQEZpRRk04twYL 8YpVcM5wDS12kgKn6dY7QKrZ7IsjGwSd9zsgg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Status/Indicator lights tested.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMFWPiIK42UKDoLJTS41opamB7-HCNWWym4_QpUfLPT7Njs8gSJ9snb4HImzPmW_KN4AA7dVioXkw IlS7SrfSRd0_bD4SIxDaJEruTA7rcyiMZuBmKQoP_h9tLULcgF H763g9EHzP6Lq3Oo1Ngh8mOObQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
New illumination bulbs.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNcUvfcTOX1kfRkOsZ2Mv8ypuQ4wKodMLoLXzz-Y1SMetVr8cEIpcfQii6yO1tDtisZg1hQZvNeSv7EjTIZQ-hxX8QraVwokapRkUKH2QnT_p-ggSk6PvwDjk3UYCiqqkvJY9X3BTDCLUuJMkJbfYEzrw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

[BRAKE LAMP] warning operation tested.



Ready to be installed back on the car.


Already in discussion with the owner about collecting his NSX from my place but the owner needs bit of extra arrangements so will see how it goes.


Getting there.
Must work on the audio head unit and another gauge cluster in parallel this week.

Kaz

[Heineken]

Very nice work, Kaz.
PS: If you like, you can remove the hand-written markers 'A' and 'B' on the PCB side connector with Isopropanol alcohol. It might be confusing to have multiple markers.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO6XRkG9vBGjmhQv4hwWz-HZRW5w-GdPPwrbl7YlGCtB1vfuVHiJgL3EbxIVFdhY4P90Hb2qgD0AFuL Hv4vnHG3IbyR3c0JBipKBhgwMmS9i8AkglKkiliMC8wXNjab20 LbIEJjMntiKe-HaupbBWDyjw=w1080-h810-s-no-gm?authuser=0
Another updates but the timeline goes back and forth and not in order.

The alternator and the gauge cluster back in place.

The volt reading is better but not like other NSX.

Should be about 14.5V and not like 14.2V despite the volt gauge being re-calibrated and the alternator overhauled.

Must be the aftermarket wires breaking into the gauge power line somewhere on the car.

Lots and lots of security related wires observed under the bonnet, inside the cabin and even in the engine bay.

As the alternator is generating proper voltage around 14.6V, going to leave it as is.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMmNNk2ubj60m-0bBuW94AcDWM90ajOe-6qbdfyXPEtzt0lulstQCoxglfx0OJBZ-R8K_4L1IM2EvhnXS4XTq_gNLKNSfH4Nf4DVCDAQJDOxlyrig9T SnyBF9nrU-SXHv1kH1IxJ3V3Q-npK0TkuqRWDA=w1080-h810-s-no-gm?authuser=0
Already knew when I first fired up this engine after my Eng Refresh that I would get good compression data.

The nice smooth engine sound....

You won’t get this by just following the workshop manual procedure and/or the adjustment spec.

Not much point in showing only the last digit but since I always used the same format, just going to carry on.

With the measurement from my own NSX, always showed the full data including the mileage.


#1: **4, #2: **1, #3: **3, #4: **0, #5: **5, #6: **5


All six cyl within the 5psi window.


This is the reward after spending hours/days of specific process and the know-how.

Hope the owner enjoys the engine sound again.




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Haven’t sealed the base idle air adjust screw yet.

Years ago, when I first looked at this engine, there was mistake made by someone resulting in strange base idle air amount.

From the service history, it was even before the ownership of the current owner.

Now that the engine properly assembled, the screw position is close enough for the start line.

Will carry out the final adjustment later once I can move the 2 cars blocking the garage door.

One of them is my boss’s MX5 and encountered misfire recently and couldn't move it.

Will touch on this later.




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Pretty much done with this side.

Just need adjusting the alignment of the eng cover.

Always takes time with the NSX-T model....

And also the alignment of the eng bay air inlet/visor.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMwKX01ZgemyxrTDcEJsLgoFs0CzbEkzgkwSt5wEZcseq _4s5-MUWUNP8BpNFfg2X9VXloUFBojT-BX1qLGvuDr5mmJREtWdIsKv2mysDjE9a80zXGWvU-NpKijZbtE7LhT-rNUNCmtK8sMRSuEFlnXPg=w1080-h810-s-no-gm?authuser=0
Spare wheel holder back in place but should have checked the A/C pressure first....




Once managed to open the garage door, will remove the L-side door card and replace the Bose door speaker AMP with my well tested spare one.

Then, final test driving session, wash the car, vacuum clean the cabin and carry out eng bay and under the bonnet dressing.....



Kaz

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Seems like the bot changed its behaviour again.

Since disabling the guest access to my Blog, the server was fairly stable but recently, had to satrt rebooting twice a day, in the morning and the evening.

Hope I can start spending time on the platform upgrade some point this month.






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Outside temperature was about 10 - 13degC so even if you forced the A/C compressor On continuously, the evapo sensor would detect below 3 – 4degC and cut off the compressor.

So, not ideal for checking the refrigerant pressure but at this low side pressure, the sat temperature is between -10 to -5degC and the high side at +35degC.

Didn’t measure the pipe temperature but from standard performance chart, close enough.

It was charged with 840g of refrigerant long time ago but using the aftermarket larger diameter receiver.


Already carried out the test driving session and for now, happy with how the A/C performed.


By the way, the compressor and the newly installed aftermarket compressor CL assy were really quiet on this NSX.

I really want replacing my A/C CL assy especially the pulley bearing as it’s making noise now.





As reported earlier, only managed to re-produce the noise-like issue from the L-side door speaker once over the years.

So, don’t really know whether it's from the L-door speaker or the audio head unit.


As a first step, decided to replace the L-side door speaker AMP with my well tested spare one.

I refurbished the existing one years ago for the owner.






https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPBaCmtIWsfMOuz-P3e1tL8-2jUjOow3ake11XNtOvfrf2eLgWfAHvDmfHipQhA92R3zVdMgIN XOdSA6hRTrMhJYRF6C4cw-JR95Ytt_cEhg10moufnNCvPlY27iubh8MtoHRRh1O7PQKxV-AlmE7G3Xg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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First, have to remove the spare one from my NSX.

Already covered about 2,750miles over full 9 months without any issues.








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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPXAk5-liPjDdQxh9LfvazOZFGK0-XnIGZuva6OgBYMEpIjAlstmWzJq5sIgv9UPJQ4TL9-nXOE7F9oQ1QfJ_tjF15wEv5WXFmsnjX3Q3vF6N_D_vguCHGP2s kOMAyvaxw-oI4P10k6e7f0SFtTJfEXGw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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Now installed into the owner's speaker box.

The speaker cone looked fine and no damages.


As expected, the removed existing Bose AMP showed no issues on the testing bench so far.


As I’ll be servicing many electronics components very soon, will keep it on the bench.


If nothing happens, I’m afraid we need to re-visit the audio head unit that had fairly big services by someone in the past.

I refurbished it afterwards but I found another potential failure mode that no other person reported.

So far, only on 1 unit happened at the specific area using the specific parts.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczN7L5vB2EFR3ovYY8pR7E__Y4YO_LgYg_lZWuevdesiHc dH437hKv3csZwpYfb1h4btrjhSAjLmbbFCscAn8q7QsBscizcy T-rZgdADu5t0t3lIMZr4M7k2wwWnaNDBfEmeV8DQZgVKNLHk80Fb NYVmVQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
The usual treatment of the water gutter to reduce the amount of water dripping over the rear bank IG coil cover.

Not perfect at all but at least, it has some effect.






https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPlYgdeD8UxxLZfm_tpJ49HCM7mmm7Oo2DKNepo_mDe2L aQvfuqZHZx0mwWvPhSLRhyOkwpXOU51uDD0oTmL2RZEptEQVMV 7mu73cHoGVOQzP2XncCWgAtVejTLqrnHiCxx7TgPRXGoxrhWoT URiCxVuw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Time to adjust the base idle air screw.

My trusted 090 connector for the DBW model.

Had to open the screw slightly as the engine stalled on starting up.

Once started, closing the screw slightly and settled at exactly the same position as other NSX.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczM4LKXCnv6CXHawwNNp4JsaBPDLGSas_SzEzQEDt7_1Gv HfGbvPAw5oBhIjSdQxfMOJfRwTT17fWZwhjqtOjAKl64P8bM-cHWzOyi3OyONyd0L3a45UWuOTsHcgt8Gdo9K6jbwhZ-HKTjsnUlRbBIVkaA=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPhpafE3hnM1zWsLc6R-4daAXcWxlP-9w3kHhwmRCk6TbncECqXJh45KYqU8XGXKLGYbU8oyWbTxms00O kcXmW1dWgZbG9ACXnxwvH4dPV7sEe9TwOaWYNOpD2P54PoAQaT g2hzGPsO_olt4rWt9RByzQ=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
If the engine healthy, one should be able to idle even at around 600rpm.

It’s DBW MT model so once SCS terminal opened, the ECU just aims for the 800rpm.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOn7fmIFHR3QlSIfkrrTb5Y1HpzpgtbbQcBiK249F6EBa-kINNX89hc4ZHTNKWmMqQcm4onP3E7xPKEQpp5_L_FU9nhfNy68 g1pixCnOnKL5zxXxxmIePru14s-_u4GfC8Y6C4crjGVOEbLpg1IMjfDRw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Now the base idle air screw is sealed.


Time to reset the ECU.


Went out for the sequences of final test driving sessions but split the menu in multiple outings.

Was aiming half tank of fuel but added too much so not ideal for testing but still, prefer this suspension setting than my Type-S one.

The road surface around my area is in such poor condition.....



Engaged VTEC once after the 2nd outing.

Happy with all the results.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczM-uaZF-HaW2vTvHa1oNEYOODgVYwhSmks-0VFceg0XdscGJ2Qt6yhe14ifV0rLI8n76jvd5pgvT73RpMjCCB ckbgQDDDF2sZbrELS2XGc9JkzGlXeTVzQ-pVZHDrCgaxn73NNBBW80ZvOphUvtCTNnBg=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0
Despite filling only about 2/3 of the tank, the washer fluid manged to seep out through the tiny hole used for checking the fluid level.

To the owner: If you find tiny amount of blue fluid under the radiator, it’s not the coolant but the washer fluid.






https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczN3SkbcDD7A4QQ6yCNzg0ky9wCkHAsZ-jdCfZi8_TiGH5awZPrP8CW6ZTRXaRVeqGcQyoIQqSImiIIyqFs BSl-BepKxeWGi7TDHMtP4_UXtKI72MHLaRPwaWyNJy8hhladkg8gUO 3HZGu_BmqpxSyaNcw=w1080-h810-s-no?authuser=0

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Cleaned the cabin and vacuumed but then my 5.5 years old Dyson decided to cut out randomly.

No blockage or filter issue.

Either the battery protection circuit or something else.

Turned out it was both the battery and the red plastic trigger.

Poor design and not so great plastic material....

No wonder why so many experienced the same issue.

Quite surprised to find such thing from Dyson.....

Ordered replacement battery and for now, repaired the plastic trigger.




Wiped all the internal glass surface first with the soft water followed by IPA.

This will keep the glass clean and no misting up for awhile.



Just need washing the car but the owner needs extra days before collection so will wait for now.



Thank you for honouring my decision over the years and respecting my skill and the service.

Really appreciated.


Kaz