PDA

View Full Version : Camber, castor adjustment bolts



duncan
25-05-2016, 01:17 PM
Project for later in the year is to fit Bilsteins with the OEM springs.
To reset the castor, camber angles the adjustment bolts will need to be free.
Before I start bashing away, what's the best way to free the adjustment bolts off
- loosen the retaining nuts and try to hammer the bolt through,
- loosen the retaining nuts and try to rotate the bolt,
- whatever, any suggestions welcome in advance of me wishing I that I shouldn't have bothered.
Thanks,
Duncan

Nick Graves
25-05-2016, 05:11 PM
Caster; reverse up/drive into a kerb at high speed.

Kaz was working on a method of unseizing them, but I don't think he's got very far with it.

NSXGB
25-05-2016, 06:08 PM
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?978-Compliance-Pivot-%96-seized-caster-adjuster

Kaz-kzukNA1
26-05-2016, 06:09 AM
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mBs2zoXDEnZV5BFac3P_1kNmSZ3y3M-TGoIC0pHrMiMUSR3x2A_sjZUIfJLFedNic8fGaIshXTERAb-8hzytrWXHyWJy39txpaFHUwAJ6KuIpfazr9-1-KHOza8UfNmHnf_NWJCO85g7azSchYoi0FF93vznPL-LGfqb3lf58mvJzcQHhtMuyrpy6F5A1pN9j-BbRbggTLDs-e8jC5IlIZdRR9QOwoulG6ymMkAUM1sPrPw4mFZLvIUCj8Apu9W TljkLZFnEhzup4pTdNIEdx_juH4N5hJ6v2F8pp6tb-haZNfYn5FOrL2lJpm98zIBwwjM7vKp6KVKTaQOVpQvHWK1sL7b v-r4_z94cW86f9isYJu9bt3Z-KvQcLq9YdrJJCPX-RU5sFCb07vX9HGCGwTltTpAXP-de9gEGQ2cdTrGETvm-b_YLyvyWJ_c_GpWi8QWcFGMyS9IR3wCoLzdx_PdhTpyxb7hodn xH7gY1NytMwj_zizbLkDIMswqeTS7d-ck0NZ3XHkLTR8Jql3Atm9Txowrobq0VMABQzs-vWD0OtEDmHalOoOKttLc2Jeyhie95zJlj6fCS8sMeX1rzKVkbc N6pX9mN=w800-h600-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s_G8UIJWb3n3F2g8jLWqu3tcP1WF3Q8y1XlI21os_YKXYmj4Om 3qesB_MHyN6pWyi76QYUq_SSDrqCaWDbBq5WQ6e6542wEgcg0C bTtqpDCCU0JWjQef0qv5mf7V3tUBrvgE2Ic75vil-dxI32d5gIQLEwJYumpVLGzy97w8dw2_fuOAGeBM0GTkWHIIGXr 35JhhbqrNOVqdJ48QAwitoBpWD-YfcqvAPDDm9CxoQgzhD8zmdIL_7cJUtAfRY8E9p1GGxr1WQYUd CdTOIhvkt2X46LYFapdhoWt3_w-qna94KHxZgvbIzbmpZQTK7esIWCNwtd-BkrHzFH13KpRKBwbh_87A4XY8heTRWaY9jAz-t50Sty846uho0lWaslLsKm4tPBhLQti1ZrC_XzXlUjVOdobjsR frjSGBjEv_Wf3km_aVw3aQtT45lZENCYt7qryZ1Za2gDlktwbm VGb8XIclyf6WksqDp_LmgDFlgr5l7UWS3-r62SLLzK_xBBhyKCF3C5vf70nFh9WQxJf6F15c9VMjuoyRGkXq QkNUEhSXWMS-I0lGzlEf1jsgvtd2EHAIqC_1j_Fxp2SyAFN7AzdNgQbiNw=w80 0-h600-no
For the seized caster, I borrowed the compliance pivot from NSXGB and disassembled it several years ago so please refer to it in my blog. Link as in the above post from NSXGB.

As you can see, you won’t be able to apply the penetrating oil efficiently while the pivot is on the car due to limited space around the pivot and almost no way of applying the oil directly to the area where the ‘cup’ has seized.
This is even with the 'T' piece removed off the car.

Using any means of force won’t work either due to many rubber bushes attached to the pivot body that the force will be simply absorbed by the bushes.

Please do not use excessive heat.
Not only it may damage the complicated material characteristic of the pivot rubber but also, the aluminium alloy material used for the pivot may change and result in cumulative fatigue failure over many years.

Try applying the mixture of acetone and ATF from the back side of the pivot when looking into the wheel arch as that’s the shorted distance to the cup.
Please be careful with the handling of acetone. It will dissolve many materials so please wipe off immediately if you splashed it somewhere else. You could make a hole on your garage floor as well depending on the material used.


However, quite often, both R & L casters are seized at not too bad setting when you place the car on the alignment platform/stand.

If you can achieve more than 5deg and in ideal world, minimise the difference between R & L caster, you are good to go.
Just leave them.
Unless you are using your NSX on track, you won’t be able to tell the turn in/out difference between R & L even with some offset.
NSX already has huge caster setting any way.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AUNcqbk89grG2Zw8Qs9WUzX2vpuWW0yCJWK8XHss4NfOkH1Lwr Cws9zuji6KZVknFMHM6jGxrzIGdl-jbuSgBjb0LfZFMVgU6cwzbXwgrdVR3Ao0oARw3kkEPvVQVNZC4 FprHEjdKdjG9DAxuYXroWq-LjerFDaz_5HXKj3djPmA0SmWTupmhJI-5HsCt5J9Va6YjQyN1d3RXpDFR94LWGj3jkC-3iyKS-Bdgu1iHOiYsozbg9MwRnnydPPgrd0DZUH_vLVrDpsxTqioeHXX 5PiZeRRCKaqcN9aBsBbn2s_xOsVcQODkIS5PgZS12X9OIythNf WqOUbcxL34cseKEf-ZkBW8A4N2kLaRHLk2u_8XEc63_YZrQYCFzRafhbULm2fhRHuEA f1vjFT6djkMibtnhP94FPkw9nZvFIS4McqMgffvN0po87qqbbC FYDJplj2EfyrNG9Ujt34qXC60hI_m6UQSs-GL_ThdqHw-foov2H3v1JY2RcxS1T_Ft823H-2kRKOFcTyDMtYgpTjElpzKzqYlrc6c_B_TVe2qlLLN1g5FPCrY gC88a7tsLYte59dOvr9Wy_LGEYcJAKVqLYjXWhNPYNVC=w1080-h810-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X2UmcnZ4lZr5BCKvSsqUlpa0UEH-0hCGBmlNDPSYClW2vrLyO9aZ89v7s1rSs3Yg8RJJPq7rHpvcdT 7DyrlEISl54RVFEDgk4Wr0mI05OJJ41nZsn2KCBFl-YvMUCecS5qedImrWqiIPdv-DEmeS9a1nrLaPbkMhrSjFn9TvNztG3D2jivR0vHBprbLLEG3im rXpjS5VHMppmrRdkBw6oNYbC3QUyq87T3-m4rez6DsF1ICCiySj0-wPNb_5UjiVzWuEe1hmDiX4qEut2dCBt-snBbFnfiXUdWhPC6-q-g9yEqW_N43O1bLF1EdIB3X1jhAE3EXFn4jcxIwhoA5MW-3bxhHXkiRpRbaEoooqeLQTxO6kYgn2N8VarK9gw61hPrtaO2c_ pUWb3sjML1XKras0T9toeSDryt0w0V07fHDZmgLTczCoznpFOS 1bdpsq8gsVlO11snTCKk5qENTdXCpm_OmFwzm9Hy_TK4Nr1oxk 7Vl9ERN3nMtqNxsZdf6au8hc0kIu3sVlZTkj095wFqAzY6fXRu 7C_I6-eMowYbApF2CUggTpbI9DOeyQxZoup4N_TAM4r5vwz10YjtZFx7 iQDcaInsgk=w1080-h810-no
For the camber bolt, it all depends on the level of corrosion.
As a last resort, you can try this method that I had to use several times in the past but very rare.

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?91-How-to-tackle-the-seized-alignment-bolt%85-Drive-shaft-04


Again, try the acetone/ATF mixture first.
Most of the times, if you apply it many times over several hours and leave it overnight, you would be able to break the corrosion.

Twisting the bush too much may damage the rubber so be careful.
Depending on the available space and geometry, certain ball joint remover could assist you in applying enough force at the bolt end rather than hammering it out.


When I carry out the alignment service, quite often, the camber is maxed out on one side.
Again, the key is to match the R & L setup and aim for the difference within 01’.

Look for the SAI figure.
You can’t adjust this without the use of frame jig or changing the frame parts so this will tell some level of health of your frame.

By the way, before leaving for the alignment place, please have your tyre pressure adjusted.
Or, at least, adjust it at the alignment place before placing the car on the platform/stand although your tyre temperature won’t be even so not ideal.

Kaz

duncan
26-05-2016, 03:42 PM
Thanks for that, am I right in assuming that once the excentric bolt is removed, the outer sleeve to the rubber bush is equally likely to be corroded into place?
Can the reverse at high speed for castor be supplemented by steering into the kerb for a camber adjustment - it's starting to look an easier option.

Pride
26-05-2016, 04:01 PM
Can the reverse at high speed for castor be supplemented by steering into the kerb for a camber adjustment - it's starting to look an easier option.

What sort of speed would you suggest Duncan as I also need to make an adjustment and it might save me a trip to a dealer???