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simonprelude
03-04-2006, 09:37 AM
OK new discs have arrived, thanks to Dali.

So just need to get them fitted now, then we will see if they are any better.

Anyway, test fitted due to all the size variations etc and seem to be OK :)

simonprelude
03-04-2006, 09:38 AM
The rear now :)

Mr_Spanners
03-04-2006, 12:15 PM
I like the double-disc setup! Are you hoping for twice the braking power????

:wink:

~Phil.

Kevin
03-04-2006, 12:28 PM
If you've gone this far, why not just change them yourself?

simonprelude
03-04-2006, 12:35 PM
Lol, might just work, get some longer studs etc.

Just wanted to be extra careful as 1997 / 1998 was the changeover on disc sizes and there was no guarentee that mine had the new sizes with it being one of the changeover cars.

As for changing them myself, well.....

a) I'm lazy
b) Need to change brake lines also
c) Warantee ??


I like the double-disc setup! Are you hoping for twice the braking power????

:wink:

~Phil.

Minch
03-04-2006, 01:55 PM
Hi Simon,

Do you mind me asking how much you got the discs for? Was it one of the Dali packages? I'm trying to get an idea of what I NEED to spend on my NSX. Looks like I'm going to go to Plans to talk with them and see what they suggest.

Cheers

simonprelude
03-04-2006, 02:54 PM
The rotors were $999.99 plus about $130 shipping, then £45 charge at the UK end for tax etc. Yes from Mark at Dali.

These are the larger discs for the NA2 though, think you have NA1.

The weight saving on the bell housed discs is amazing though so we will see what difference they make.

Minch
03-04-2006, 03:02 PM
Yep, you're right an NA1 but with newer NSX wheels (16" front, 17" rears). Will that make a difference?

While we're on the subject have you got any tips for suspension tuning? I don't want to change the things drastically but am willing to spend a bit just bringing the old girl up to scratch with a few new toys.

Also interested in a little bit more power, not too much though because I like the fuel economy! (Used to have an Elise which seemed to run on fumes!)

Cheers

simonprelude
03-04-2006, 03:45 PM
Different caliper mounts at least, the discs are larger diameter and different thickness.

Suspension ?? Am happy at the moment with Honda set up.


Yep, you're right an NA1 but with newer NSX wheels (16" front, 17" rears). Will that make a difference?

While we're on the subject have you got any tips for suspension tuning? I don't want to change the things drastically but am willing to spend a bit just bringing the old girl up to scratch with a few new toys.

Also interested in a little bit more power, not too much though because I like the fuel economy! (Used to have an Elise which seemed to run on fumes!)

Cheers

Minch
03-04-2006, 04:02 PM
Its pretty good standard but having recently come from an Elise 135R it does move a bit. Not sure what the Type S is like but take a look at this:

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/suspension%5Fperformance%5Fproducts/NSX/Honda/Type%2DS%5Fsuspension/

Not bad prices either! Worth a look anyway.

Has anyone got any experience with Science of Speed?

simonprelude
03-04-2006, 05:43 PM
You could ask Markc about type S suspension as he has one.

Confused over the picture on SOS website.

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/exterior_performance_products/nsx/honda/fog_lamp_kit/foglamp.jpg

Using the image as type S advertising except.

It's LHD in that picture, type S are all RHD.

The UK 1997 brochure has the same picture but in RHD ??

It's also a UK car (or european) and not a JDM

kowalski
03-04-2006, 08:23 PM
Mitch,

I recently changed over to the Type R suspension, which you can get from Science of Speed. Its a major improvement over standard but a bit harsh if your doing long trips, though not as harsh or as low as some of the track biased set ups you can get. I also fitted a beefed up strut brace to stiffen things up a bit! Plans did all the work and theres pics of mine in the "Red NSX at Plans Motorsport" thread, but mines the black one!

leigh

Mr_Spanners
03-04-2006, 09:13 PM
Having looked at the brake disc pics again is there any 'real' reason why the solid sections of the discs have been decreased in width? (ergo the vented part is wider). I'm guessing this improves cooling but reduces the structural rigidty?

answers on a postcard to....

~Phil.

NSXGOD
04-04-2006, 05:54 AM
Having looked at the brake disc pics again is there any 'real' reason why the solid sections of the discs have been decreased in width? (ergo the vented part is wider). I'm guessing this improves cooling but reduces the structural rigidty?

answers on a postcard to....

~Phil.

"structural rigidity" is not an issue in brake discs of even vague quality when used for braking (as opposed to metal sculpture), and these are some of the best I've seen. yes, that allows for more air flow. There is a discussion of the disc design here:
http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/2006-311-0.htm
YMMV,

NSXGOD
04-04-2006, 06:00 AM
Yep, you're right an NA1 but with newer NSX wheels (16" front, 17" rears). Will that make a difference?

only in what you COULD mount if you wanted to go up 1 size on the rotors, if you keep the old calipers you need to retain that size rotor.


While we're on the subject have you got any tips for suspension tuning? I don't want to change the things drastically but am willing to spend a bit just bringing the old girl up to scratch with a few new toys.

there is no ultimate suspension that is best for everyone as we all have different definitions of under and over steering and how much punishment our kidneys can take.


Also interested in a little bit more power, not too much though because I like the fuel economy! (Used to have an Elise which seemed to run on fumes!)
Cheers

NSX's cost inordinate $ to make go faster - it is a bummer that way.

Minch
04-04-2006, 07:04 AM
Thanks Mark,

When I talk about not wanting to loose too much fuel economy I really mean not like my friends Supra which on a motorway run will only return 15mpg at best and around 5-6mpg when its being ragged. I must admit that although its a lot of cash I wash very impressed with the concept of the 3.8 litre conversion by Science of Speed. Do you now the guy who had the conversion? If so how is he finding it?

Nathan

simonprelude
04-04-2006, 08:00 AM
As Mark says the construction is also a lot better, obviously with being bell housed there is an easier casting process. Hopefully this will increase heat dissipation in both the material is thinner so will retain less heat, and the much greater increase in vents and ventable volume.



Having looked at the brake disc pics again is there any 'real' reason why the solid sections of the discs have been decreased in width? (ergo the vented part is wider). I'm guessing this improves cooling but reduces the structural rigidty?

answers on a postcard to....

~Phil.

"structural rigidity" is not an issue in brake discs of even vague quality when used for braking (as opposed to metal sculpture), and these are some of the best I've seen. yes, that allows for more air flow. There is a discussion of the disc design here:
http://www.racingbrake.com/product_p/2006-311-0.htm
YMMV,

NSXGOD
04-04-2006, 02:31 PM
Thanks Mark,

When I talk about not wanting to loose too much fuel economy I really mean not like my friends Supra which on a motorway run will only return 15mpg at best and around 5-6mpg when its being ragged. I must admit that although its a lot of cash I wash very impressed with the concept of the 3.8 litre conversion by Science of Speed. Do you now the guy who had the conversion? If so how is he finding it?
Nathan

I do not know the guy that has the motor in his car, but I do know the guy that actually makes the cranks for the motors & designed the piston sets etc. I am getting 3 of the 3.8L blocks made up, 2 for my cars and one to use for a "core" for customer exchanges so I'll be able to report back in a few months on that. It is no more $ than a CTSC install when all is said and done. Not beer money certainly, but if the motor needs a rebuild anyway - why not get something "extra" for all the trouble?

We are ordering one motor built for FI - to have the CTSC stuck on top for the ultimate "but officer it IS stock - really it is and it is CARB approved too - here's the sticker" 450HP California Special sleeper.

The other will be "NA all the way".

Minch
04-04-2006, 04:31 PM
I'd be interested to find out what you think of the NA version is like. Like you say for the price of a supercharger you can get an engine rebuild. I'm not sure how well the standard 3.0 engine stands up to mileage or what would be classed as high enough to warrant an engine rebuild but I'm very tempted. Trouble is without shipping the engine to the states I need to find someone willing to take on a project like that and get it right! If you have any contacts in the UK who would be willing to take it on I might be more inclined to do it sooner!

NSXGOD
04-04-2006, 04:41 PM
I'd be interested to find out what you think of the NA version is like. Like you say for the price of a supercharger you can get an engine rebuild. I'm not sure how well the standard 3.0 engine stands up to mileage or what would be classed as high enough to warrant an engine rebuild but I'm very tempted. Trouble is without shipping the engine to the states I need to find someone willing to take on a project like that and get it right!

The BIG block comes "built" - that is the hard part. Any good motor guy that can read the factory service manual can install the heads and accessories and put it back in the car.


If you have any contacts in the UK who would be willing to take it on I might be more inclined to do it sooner!

I don't but Kevin or Darren might.

The NA version is a nice motor just as it is - but like all things, it is what you want it to be and that depends on your wallet. If you wanted to go "bare bones" then you just get the stroker long block and put your stock heads and intake on and off you go. You might call that "stage1"

"Stage 2" would include modified heads (larger valves and porting etc) + cams and if you get the cams you need the adjustable cam gears. Might as well get the Mugen throttle body and a chip or AEM.

"Stage 3" would add ITB's. :mrgreen:

Of course doing all of this w/out headers and a free flow exhaust would not be too intelligent.

YMMV

Minch
04-04-2006, 04:52 PM
The main thing I want to maintain, if you like the design brief, is for the car to look as standard as possible. This also means I'd like to pass our UK emission laws (MoT) which require catalytic converters. Not sure whether you can get high flow ones or not but I would want the arse-ache of having to swap them over every year!

PS . . . stage three sounds best :D

NSXGOD
04-04-2006, 04:55 PM
The main thing I want to maintain, if you like the design brief, is for the car to look as standard as possible. This also means I'd like to pass our UK emission laws (MoT) which require catalytic converters. Not sure whether you can get high flow ones or not but I would want the arse-ache of having to swap them over every year!
PS . . . stage three sounds best :D

yes it does, but it would never pass anything but slower cars. :mrgreen:

We have the high flow cats in stock for 1991-1994 and they are making the 1995-1999 version right now.

Minch
04-04-2006, 05:03 PM
You have PM

Kevin
04-04-2006, 07:33 PM
The UK is the worldwide home of motorsport. It should not be impossible to find someone who can rebore the block, and install the parts from the US.

The problem is finding the right company. Unfortunately there are too many companies simply putting 'racing' in their name, when they simply sell bolt-on parts (and sometimes fit them) for the Max Power brigade. What you're looking for is a real motorsport engine builder. Someone who can perform engineering tasks and has an actual machine shop.

http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/Home-1.asp seems like someone who could do it.

The NSX engine though is not one used in motorsport, so experience with it is going to be limited.